Best NOACK Commonly Available 0W-20 Oil (for Honda Civic 1.5T)

Presently I am off the 0w-20 reservationin the 2016 Accord with 2.4 Earth Dreams direct injection engine. On the last OCI with M1 0w-20 EP the oil level was down by 1/2 quart at 4000 miles and another 1/2 quart at 8000 miles. With the current fill of 5w-30 M1 EP and 8000 miles, we are down 1/8 quart at most. This engine also has a fuel dilution issue, albeit nothing nothing like that 1.5 liter TGDI motor.
 
Originally Posted by john_pifer
Girlfriend (soon to be fiance) just moved down here from Indiana, so I'll be taking care of maintenance on her 2018 Civic LX Hatchback 6-speed (1.5T).

She's had the car since buying new last fall and it has around 16,000 miles now. Up until this point, she's been going to the dealership up there for oil changes. No idea what they've been putting in it.

I am aware of the fuel dilution issues with this engine, and, if it was my car and it wasn't under warranty, I might just put Pennzoil Platinum 10W-30 in it. Last time someone checked that oil a few years ago, it was 4.7% NOACK, which is one of the best NOACK ratings of ANY oil, regardless of price. That's what I ran in my 2016 WRX (also a TGDI engine), despite the fact that it called for a 5W-30. But it didn't bother me because, hey, still a 30W oil. But it's not my car, and it's a 5-year, unlimited-mileage powertrain warranty (Honda upped it from 5/60 due to the fuel dilution problems).

So, I think, while it's under warranty, I'll stick with a 0W-20 that's commonly available at Walmart, and probably an OEM Honda filter, and keep all the receipts.

A couple of the oils I have in mind are M1 0W-20, which I understand is a very good oil with significant PAO content, and PPPP 0W-20. I have not compared specs between those 2.

Any others I should consider?



Can't go wrong with Mobil 1 EP 0W-20 at WalMart.
 
Originally Posted by slacktide_bitog
something d1g2

also, use premium gas only!

Premium isn't going to help...dilution is dilution regardless of fuel used. Glad we go rid of our 1.5LT.
 
At the 20K mark the last time I did the oil change in my wife's 18 CRV with the same engine I measured 1.5 qrts of fuel dumped into the crank case with 6K miles on Amsoil SS 0W20. She traded in for a 19 Pilot.
 
OP, I know you are not asking for this, but I do frequently ask myself what would I do here. Besides your GF/Fiance's ride was on my short list for purchase recently.

I would consider Valvoline Advanced Synthetic 5W20 or Chevron Supreme 5W20, with a Fumoto drain valve, low profile ramps, and frequent DIY oil changes FWIW.

Otherwise, M1 EP 0W20 all the way !!
 
Originally Posted by Direct_Rejection


I would consider Valvoline Advanced Synthetic 5W20 or Chevron Supreme 5W20, with a Fumoto drain valve, low profile ramps, and frequent DIY oil changes FWIW.



I don't think the brand of oil is all that important ... the PERCENTAGE of oil in the crankcase is important. Frequent changes will be of greater benefit than any flavour of the month 0w20 oil. Not sure synthetic is even required if the oil is changed at 3000 miles .
 
Originally Posted by geeman789
Originally Posted by Direct_Rejection


I would consider Valvoline Advanced Synthetic 5W20 or Chevron Supreme 5W20, with a Fumoto drain valve, low profile ramps, and frequent DIY oil changes FWIW.



I don't think the brand of oil is all that important ... the PERCENTAGE of oil in the crankcase is important. Frequent changes will be of greater benefit than any flavour of the month 0w20 oil. Not sure synthetic is even required if the oil is changed at 3000 miles .

Brand is irrelevant..but because it's a turbo I personally would go with the full syn (better thermal stability) and it's only a couple dollars more. Otherwise if it were a NA engine, go with dino/blend for 3k oci's and spend the $2 on a coffee ...
 
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If NOACK is the primary concern, just get a 5w20 as it will have a lower NOACK than a 0w20. And a 5w20 will work just fine for the OP area. Really no need to worry about using 0w20 unless one is further north. I live in Central Iowa and I don't use a 0wXX in anything. 5wXX or 10wXX is all I ever use.
 
Originally Posted by geeman789
Originally Posted by Direct_Rejection


I would consider Valvoline Advanced Synthetic 5W20 or Chevron Supreme 5W20, with a Fumoto drain valve, low profile ramps, and frequent DIY oil changes FWIW.



I don't think the brand of oil is all that important ... the PERCENTAGE of oil in the crankcase is important. Frequent changes will be of greater benefit than any flavour of the month 0w20 oil. Not sure synthetic is even required if the oil is changed at 3000 miles .


I think you bring up a good point; with an engine like this, with fuel being dumped like that into the crankcase...why not just go shorter intervals with a cheaper oil? Even say a Super Tech.
 
Went to Walmart and saw Edge was on rollback for $22.48, so I went with that. M1-EP was like $28. Since this car will never go more than 5-6K on an OCI, I figure it's not really going to matter much. In the future, I'll probably just go with whatever big-name-brand full-syn is on sale.

The bottle had "superior GDI turbo formula" on the front. Anybody know what makes this formula different and supposedly superior for TGDI engines?
 
Originally Posted by john_pifer
Went to Walmart and saw Edge was on rollback for $22.48, so I went with that. M1-EP was like $28. Since this car will never go more than 5-6K on an OCI, I figure it's not really going to matter much. In the future, I'll probably just go with whatever big-name-brand full-syn is on sale.

The bottle had "superior GDI turbo formula" on the front. Anybody know what makes this formula different and supposedly superior for TGDI engines?




It's just marketing and the use of key descriptive words. Should Castrol just say "good GDI turbo formula "?

Superior, outstanding, these words add punch to the statement.
 
Originally Posted by john_pifer
I am aware of the fuel dilution issues with this engine, and, if it was my car and it wasn't under warranty, I might just put Pennzoil Platinum 10W-30 in it. Last time someone checked that oil a few years ago, it was 4.7% NOACK, which is one of the best NOACK ratings of ANY oil, regardless of price.

I hate to ask but how does lower Noack help with fuel dilution? By the way Noack is the last name of the German scientist who invented the method -- not an acronym -- so, it's not capitalized.

Chances are that most internal-combustion engines will be direct injection in the future because of obvious performance and fuel-economy benefits. Should we lose sleep over this instead of whatever oil manufacturers recommend?

All this said if 0W-20 is what is recommended, a good synthetic 5W-20 (perhaps Valvoline Advanced Synthetic 5W-20, which has a very thick base oil with almost no viscosity-index improver (VII)) is the best choice if the viscosity is a concern, as it will have a base oil even thicker than that of a synthetic 5W-30.
 
Originally Posted by Gokhan
All this said if 0W-20 is what is recommended, a good synthetic 5W-20 (perhaps Valvoline Advanced Synthetic 5W-20, which has a very thick base oil with almost no viscosity-index improver (VII)) is the best choice if the viscosity is a concern, as it will have a base oil even thicker than that of a synthetic 5W-30.


I've wondered about this too. When I use 20 weight in my Accord,I've used 5W20 instead of 0W20 that's recommended on the oil cap and owner's manual.
 
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