Best method when switching oils

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34,146
Location
Southern NJ
RL is coming out this weekend and Amsoil is going back in. What is the best method of switching that would allow me to go right into an extended drain? I'm thinking of putting 2qts of Amsoil back into the engine right after the RL is drained, running it for a about 10 mins. and then refilling with 4qts of Amsoil. Any thoughts?
 

Patman

Staff member
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21,993
Location
Oakville, Ontario
I've done that myself, but running it for 10min is unneccessary. 2min will do the trick. I like to run about 75% of the oil capacity though, so instead of doing 2 out of 4 quarts, I would run 3 out of 4. It should be fine for just idling for a couple of minutes, but with only 50% capacity I'd be worried.
 
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47,765
Location
Duvall WA - Pacific NW USA
Maybe I'm confused. Are you proposing to drain ALL the oil, then add 2 qts and run it?... Maybe best to add 2 qts of Amsoil and 2 qts of Chevron dino as a flush....the go 100% Amsoil. Just a thought.
 

buster

Thread starter
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34,146
Location
Southern NJ
Yeah, I'm draining the RL out completely then going to ASL. But I want to be sure that when I put Amsoil back in, it doesn't get messed up with the RL that was in their. I think I'm going with what Patman suggested. It's a waste but I want to go right into a longer drain with Amsoil. As long as I can get the RL residuals out, I'll be happy. Patman, 2mins is enough? I was thinking a bit longer. [I dont know]
 
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5,785
Location
Dixie
Running the engine with Amsoil for a short time will not accomplish anything. It takes several thousand miles at normal operating temps for a particular additive chemistry to achieve optimum results. That's why switching oils all the time is a bad idea. Just put the Amsoil in and forget about it ...the moly will dissipate over the course of 1-2 oil changes,and the small amount of Redline left in the engine isn't going to cause any problems. I'd change the first batch of Amsoil after 8000-9000 miles and go to longer drains after that. As I recall, you are adding some oil to this engine anyway, so you should be in excellent shape.
 
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633
Location
LA (Lower Alabama)
If you want to get all the old oil out it's pretty simple. When you have the drain plug and filter off, pull the coil wire and crank on the engine for a few seconds. Just be sure to have the drain bucket under the drain plug and something under the filter mounting space to catch what comes out. After that, pour in half a quart of new oil to flush the pan. Much more economical. That's how I do it on my Harley.
 
Messages
265
Location
NY
quote:
Originally posted by doyall: If you want to get all the old oil out it's pretty simple. When you have the drain plug and filter off, pull the coil wire and crank on the engine for a few seconds. Just be sure to have the drain bucket under the drain plug and something under the filter mounting space to catch what comes out. After that, pour in half a quart of new oil to flush the pan. Much more economical. That's how I do it on my Harley.
In this day and age I think this is a VERY BAD idea. [Eek!] Why you ask??...For one your coil puts out alot of voltage and your electronics could short out and some repair manuals tell you not to do this for this reason(if your car has this setup). It may have worked back in the day with caps & rotors, points, etc. But with D.I.S. systems, heck some cars don't even have wires now with the coil packs shooting volts straight to the spark plugs.
 
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508
Location
milwaukee
I agree with TooSlick. I don't understand why you would drian out the Amsoil after two minutes for an extended drain unless you want to do both oil changes at the same time. I would think it better to run at least 3,000 miles if not more to flush out the RL. Overall though, I'm missing the point. Isn't that moly a good thing in there? Does Amsoil not mix well with RL? I have this thought in the back of my mind that I would like to run this drain oil in my car.
 
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3,031
Location
Florida
I would just run the Amsoil batch for 5000 mile interval the first time around and not worry about it. After that extend as you see fit! [Big Grin] Daily Drives: -2003 Toyota Tacoma PreRunner XtraCab, Impulse Red, Peppy 2.7 Liter 4 Banger, Running Mobil1 Synthetics SS 5W-30. ODO 5800 Miles. -1995 Toyota 4-Runner, Evergreen, 3.0 V6, Running Mobil1 Synthetic SS 10W-30. ODO 82000 Miles. (Switching to GC next)Nope sticking with M1. http://www.geocities.com/amkeer3/Dailydrives.html
 

Patman

Staff member
Messages
21,993
Location
Oakville, Ontario
quote:
Originally posted by pepper32: I run Mobil1 5w30 in the winter and pennzoil multigrade 5w30 or Chevron Supreme 5w30 summers. Am I doing harm to the engine with this setup?
You aren't harming it, but keep in mind that when you do the switchover to Mobil 1, you'll still have some of the dino oil mixed in with it, so your cold flow performance isn't going to be as good as it would be if you had 100% synthetic in there. Living in Alaska, I'd go with a 0w30 synthetic and just keep using it all year round. Just change it right before winter starts, and then again 6 months later.
 
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