Best DRUM brake lube

There's no extreme pressure AND movement on the tabs of the brake shoes. There can only be pressure there if the drum or shoe is wearing wrong AND brake force is applied.
 
I've had acceptable results with with Ford silicone grease and permatex antiseize. Neither is exceptional, though in the salt belt that is hard to be. Speaking of which, I should probably consider tearing down my parking drums again before they get too crusty.
 
Didn’t know you were supposed to use any for drum brakes this is the first I’ve heard. I’ve always been told drum brakes stay dry at all spots. I’ve done lots of drum brakes never used any type of lube and never had an issue.
 
Didn’t know you were supposed to use any for drum brakes this is the first I’ve heard. I’ve always been told drum brakes stay dry at all spots. I’ve done lots of drum brakes never used any type of lube and never had an issue.

If you use anything, make sure it's something that won't migrate to the brake linings or drops oil.
 
I stripped my drum brakes down and removed the anti-seize and used Permatex Silicone Ceramic Extreme Brake Parts Lubricant. Man... THAT is good stuff!
 
Ten year old thread, but the recent resurrection question by highsierrabob is a good one. My opinion about using a high solids paste like Molykote M77, Pastelub, etc. is that they have less oil in them to begin with (less chance to migrate to the shoes) AND, when the oil part of the grease dries up, you still have the solid component (moly, ceramic) that act like "marbles" to continue providing boundary lubrication.

With all the dust in a drum brake, any lubricant probably doesn't last long. A better solution would be some kind of slippery teflon or ceramic pad adhered to the wear areas. Graphite paint (Slip Plate) might work? https://www.slipplate.com/

Probably a solution looking for a problem type of thing.
 
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And make sure there's no groove dug into the backing plate from wear. This would be a problem mostly on much older very high mileage cars. The repair would be to weld up and grind smooth.
You beat me to it.

Sometimes you can beat it out from the back with a flat face punch, and then file it smooth, if so no welding required.
 
The Critic gave me a tube of CRC Silaramic. I’m using that on my parent’s van. So far, so good. It is thinner bodied than M77 or anti-seize and doesn’t have metallic or organic(carbon-based) solid lubricants.
 
For the cars below that specifically call for lubricant where the shoes slide, I use a high molybdenum paste such as Honda Moly60 or similar. Great EP quality and not as tacky as a traditional grease to catch and hold brake dust, grit, etc. This has worked well for years, but nothing below really sees salt.
 
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