Best Dino oil for '87 Porsche 911 Carrera?

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I've already tried Mobil1 15w-50 and it started leaking. So, I'm resigned to either a class 3 or good class 2 dino. Some have suggested diesel oil but i don't believe diesel oil is formulated to withstand issues found in high performance gas engines, i.e. much higher rpm's (no need for anti-foam additives), higher temperatures (diesels run a bit cooler), and the higher zinc and posphorus may foul spark plugs and O2 sensors. I'm firm on a 20W-50, at 127,000mi.
So, what's out there? Kendall used to be good, not anymore. Tried GTX 20W-50, it seemed ok, but some have found it's viscosity unstable. I want something easily obtained not anything you have to send away for. How about Vavoline VR1 20W-50?
Torco?
 
I think most people here might recomend an Auto-RX treatment before you proceed with trying different oils, just to clean things up a bit and refresh your seals a little.
 
Fix the leak, its a porsche so there are probally more than one leak, but its worth every penny....post pics of the car too if you can
 
quote:

Originally posted by movin:
Some have suggested diesel oil but i don't believe diesel oil is formulated to withstand issues found in high performance gas engines, i.e. much higher rpm's (no need for anti-foam additives), higher temperatures (diesels run a bit cooler), and the higher zinc and posphorus may foul spark plugs and O2 sensors.

Before you believe what some have suggested, maybe you should look at the tests a API CI-4 diesel engine has to pass. Specifically, high temperature and oil aeration tests. And high performance dinos like Valvoline VR-1 Racing Motor Oil have levels of zinc and phosphorus similar to API CI-4 diesel engine oil.
 
Why not just fix the leak? Mobil 1 started cleaning up your engine so the leak has actually been there for awhile more than likely and was clogged up by whatever other oils you used in the past. If your 911 is turbo charged then you definitely want to use synthetic.
 
Hi there,

In Los Angeles, you can use 20W50 year round. Just use whatever 20W50 is on sale. I would not worry about fixing the engine. You are lucky if the leaks stop when you use conventional oil.

W115nut
 
It's been my experience with switching between dino and syn that if you started a leak, its not likely to stop. It's worth it to have the leak fixed in a 911...they're a classic perforamce automobile that deserve to be maintained. Seal it up and use what Porsche has used as a factory fill for many years..Mobil 1.
 
quote:

Originally posted by W115nut:
Hi there,

In Los Angeles, you can use 20W50 year round. Just use whatever 20W50 is on sale. I would not worry about fixing the engine. You are lucky if the leaks stop when you use conventional oil.

W115nut


This isn't a beater car!
 
Check the bolts around your oil pan and make sure they’re tight. I have found that oil pan bolts can loosen over time and cause leaks. Usually a simple fix if that is the problem.

quote:

chevron

Chevron Delo 400 Multigrade is formulated with ISOSYN® base stocks, which rival synthetics in critical engine tests, and an optimal blend of the latest technology in dispersant, detergent, oxidation inhibition, antiwear, corrosion inhibition, viscosity improver, and defoaming additives.

If you want a real good “dino” based oil, something like that Chevron Grp II HDEO 15-40 would be a good option.
 
There are only a few places these leak, none are hard to fix. Even the rear main seal is not that bad. I'd say fix the leak(s) and put in the good stuff. With any care at all these engines last longer than a bag of methusalas.
 
I've had great UOA's with Rotella T and Chevron Delo 15w40 in my 3.2 Carrera...right now i am running Schaeffers 5w50 syn,..will test at season end...these cars need a slighly better add pack than your average gas engine as they are air cooled...HDEO's are the way to go.
 
Hi there,

This would not be a beater car if synthetic was not used.

I think a good quality 20W50 will be sufficient for this car. 20W50 was the racing oil of the 70s which is well suited for any asphalt burning you can do.

W115nut
 
Thick Castrol GTX HM 10w-40 or Delo 15w-40. Maybe the Delo first to clean and then the GTX HM to condition, like with shampoo.
 
There are some truly hot spots in a diesel.
I really wonder if they run cooler than your car.
I'd think that a good diesel oil would be the best dino for you.
 
movin,

If it were mine, I'd have my mechanic fix the leak, then I'd do an Auto-RX treatment, then run Valvoline Maxlife 20w50 for the rest of the car's life.

Best wishes to you.
smile.gif
 
Man, these guys who recommend fixing the leak have never paid modern prices for Porsche service
smile.gif
Make sure you do not have a simple cam cover leak, if that is the case it is very easy to fix and is normally serviced at every valve adjustment. You do not have to worry about high zinc/phosphorus levels as your catalytic converter will live just fine. Porsche converters fail from too many heat cycles that crack the core long before they die from zinc poisoning.One thing I would look for in a dino oil would be a high flash point. Localized temperatures can run very hot in your engine on warm days.I recommend that you stay away from Auto-Rx treatments, we saw too many problems with flushes to justify the risk.Also, we found that introducing synthetic oil slowly, two quarts the first fill, four the second, etc prevented leaks from starting.
 
The Fellow I work for has a 1987 slant nose Cabrolet and very low miles. They tend to start leaking when setting as this one has. We now have it at a shop with the engine removed having the whole engine resealed. Mostly cam and timing covers but have you ever tried removing them with the engine in the car????????????????? Been using Valvoline Dura Blend Tough driving formula and will probably stick with it.
 
Where is it leaking? Rear seal? Are you seeing visual evidence of the leak or just having to top it off?

These engines tend to consume a fair amount of oil anyhow in normal use. Also the oil lines tend to go.

I agree with other posters that good 15w40 HDEO are great choices if you want to run a Dino. iF Doug Hillary (www.landsharkoz.com) was here he would tell you.

No reason to fear them, and also no real reason to run a 20w50 although it wouldn't hurt anything in a California climate. I have run Castrol GTX 20w50 and 10w40 in Porsche 944s in Canada, but run Esso XD-3 0w40 Synthetic in my 944 Turbo.
 
carock

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Member # 12088

posted 28 June, 2006 21:50
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Man, these guys who recommend fixing the leak have never paid modern prices for Porsche service Make sure you do not have a simple cam cover leak, if that is the case it is very easy to fix and is normally serviced at every valve adjustment. You do not have to worry about high zinc/phosphorus levels as your catalytic converter will live just fine. Porsche converters fail from too many heat cycles that crack the core long before they die from zinc poisoning.One thing I would look for in a dino oil would be a high flash point. Localized temperatures can run very hot in your engine on warm days.I recommend that you stay away from Auto-Rx treatments, we saw too many problems with flushes to justify the risk.Also, we found that introducing synthetic oil slowly, two quarts the first fill, four the second, etc prevented leaks from starting.
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Posts: 135 | From: California | Registered: Mar 2006 | IP: Logged |


How much do you know about Auto-Rx? Run it is safe to use. It's an ester base system that slowly cleans your engine. It's not a flush that will just clean huge amounts of sludge rapidlly and clog an oil passageway. It will slowly clean your sludged motor spot's and remove false engine seals.
 
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