Best dino crud/sludge cleaner?

[DirtyApe]

What would be considered the best dino-based oil for cleaning crud and the beginnings of some sludge in a dodge 3.9L v6? (Dakota), 2000, with 49k?

It specs 10-30 year round, unless consistently below 32, then 5/30. No usage to speak of.

 

[ULVER]

Nothing is gonna be as effective as AUTO RX ...

 

[m2200b]

Delo or other HDEOs. 5-40 Rotella syn is dino HDEO class III so called syn. You can do 1/2 5-20 and 15-40 and get close to 10-30 with more HDEO content if you want to stay nearer 30 weight oil.

 

[Ramblin Fever]

I thought HDEO's should not technically be classified as an oil that helps CLEAN things up, but rather keeps them clean??

 

[BrianWC]

I completely agree. Show me before and after pics of an HDEO cleaning something. Speaking of which, shouldn't this be in the additive, fuel, oil, cleaner forum?

 

[Mr Magoo]

Would 20,000 miles with a HDEO like Delo or Delvac 1300 clean up the junk ?

Alot of people do a 5K OCI with a HDEO and expect things to be spotless, but I think it takes alot more than 5K miles before you see a difference.

[ May 02, 2006, 06:48 PM: Message edited by: Mr Magoo ]

 

[Cooper]

Auto-Rx....duh!

 

[m2200b]

Here's a posting this year of same motor with varnish where the owner switched about at the same mileage as mh2800 to syn and reported a clean engine by 100K. If syn can do that in 40K,
HDEO can do it quicker - but I agree not in the the same 3500 mi clean/ rinse cycle of ARX.

Previous post -Had a Dodge 3.9l in a '99,1500 Ram truck, traded it in with 90,000 miles on it, got a '04 1500 Quad cab Hemi.
The first couple years I had the truck, I used a 5000 mile OCI, with what ever kind of oil and filter the people at the Goodyear Tire Store use. Then with about 50,000 miles on the engine I switched to Mobil 1, 10w-30 and I continued the 5000 mile OCIs. Mobil 1 was used for the next 10 to 20,000 miles. Then I switched to 5w-40 Shell Rotella T Full Synthetic and that is what it had in it when I traded it in.
After the first couple years of shop bulk oil, brand unknown, I did have some varnish stains on the oil cap, dip stick and the inner surfaces of the valve covers that I could see. Somewhere in the time of Mobil 1 or Rotella use this varnish dissappeared.

 

[BrianWC]

Nah, I don't see how HDEO is going to do it quicker. Don't get me wrong, I know the premise, but if that were the case wouldn't a lot of OLD engines be spotless as these same antiwear and antioxidents were in high concentrations in PCMO in the "good ol' days" that we now only get in HDEO's?

I'm just saying it seems from everything I have seen here from everyones' experience (including mine) that it just ain't so. The initially higher TBN and extra dose of detergents/dispersants no doubt keeps a clean engine clean, but as far as cleaning a dirty engine, it's starting to seem as magical as Slick50.

As for HDEO doing better than a PAO full synth, why? M1 is known to, at least at some point in its formulation history to use esters to balance the PAO. I'd give them more credit than anything else.

Don't get me wrong, I have already and will use HDEO in my Saab turbo (it turned in a decent UOA). But I'm certainly not expecting it to clean any more than arx, LC20, or even redline have so far.

 

[DirtyApe]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Coop0129:
Auto-Rx....duh!

---

sorry, but I specifically mentioned dino OIL. Please read a bit closer..

thanks

 

[MarkC]

Isn't Castrol advertising their GTX now "Fights sludge" or something? Belive them if you want to.
I'd just use whatever dino I wanted and run Auto-RX once or twice, then maybe some Lube Control to keep it clean.

 

[simple_gifts]

quote:

---

sorry, but I specifically mentioned dino OIL. Please read a bit closer.

---

Ok Supertech with Auto-RX

AutoRX is
Specifically designed to do what you want, oil isn't.
Show to be effective by many people on this site.
Comes with M.B. guarantee.

But if you want to do it the hard way.....

 

[Bill]

POsted by mh2800:

quote:

---

sorry, but I specifically mentioned dino OIL. Please read a bit closer.

---

Posted by simple_gifts:

quote:

---

But if you want to do it the hard way.....

---

Not only is using dino the hard way, IT WILL NOT GET THE JOB DONE!
It is a waste of time, there is NO dino based oil for cleaning crud, etc., some dinos may not leave as much deposits as other oils but they will not clean an engine, if they did we would have posts of pictures in this thread showing how these dino oils cleaned an engine.

If a dino oil (or synthetic oil) could do the work of cleaning a engine there would be no need for products like Auto-RX or LC, these products exist because they provide the most complete cleaning of an engine in as a little time as possible.
Auto-RX does a lot for the money, what does Auto-RX cost when you buy more then two bottles?
$16.99 a piece per bottle?
Very cheap maintenance for keeping the internals of an engine clean.

 

[427Z06]

quote:

---

Originally posted by mh2800:
What would be considered the best dino-based oil for cleaning crud and the beginnings of some sludge in a dodge 3.9L v6? (Dakota), 2000, with 49k?

---

An inexpensive speced dino with AutoRX. Get two bottles. One to clean, one to maintain.

 

[surfstar]

Isn't it funny that you're trying to clean something caused by dino oil with more dino oil?

AutoRX if you want to clean it right. Or throw in a quart of MMO or Rislone for 1k miles for a not as effective/safe cleaning. Oil alone won't make a large difference, especially more dino oil.

 

[kev99sl]

Any modern formulation, change it every 3000 miles, and never drive the car for less time than it takes for it to get completely warmed up. Still sludging? Something else is going on.

 

[SSDude]

You are not going to be able to clean up your engine with dino oil.

 

[Rodbuckler]

I've run both M1 and MC blended with Delo or Rotella T dino, and these mixes have tended to foul-out badly in some of the higher mileage engines I've acquired. Conventional oil tended to stay clean, but the synthetic mix blackened and cut loose alot of scary particulate matter.

Rings were freed in more than one case. Almost all of the engines successfully made it through the process.

 

[GMorg]

Maybe I'm in the minority here, but if the rings and lifters are free and oil is getting to everywhere is needs to go, why do you care if black crap decorates the inside of your engine.

I can't get use to this shining innard thing.


Now prevention, that makes sense.

 

[ekpolk]

quote:

---

Originally posted by GMorg:
Maybe I'm in the minority here, but if the rings and lifters are free and oil is getting to everywhere is needs to go, why do you care if black crap decorates the inside of your engine.

I can't get use to this shining innard thing.


Now prevention, that makes sense.

---

Ewwwwwwwwww. I've never let one get close to not shining (and on relatively long OCIs, btw). An engine perhaps does not need shiny insides to have a long and happy service life, but it certainly can't hurt. I've also wondered about the extent to which gook coatings interfere with oil's ability to fulfill its cooling function. Truthfully, however, I think shiny engines are as much about their owner's mental health (or perhaps lack thereof) as they are about mechanical function. Now as to prevention, I'm with you all the way.