best approach to get stripped caliper carrier bolt off?

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iirc some of those come with a solid threadlocker from the factory.. heat breaks it down.. a couple careful mins with a cheapo propane torch

then I would try some big vice-grips... and maybe a 2-3lb hammer

if that doesnt work carefully grind 2 flats on it and use an open end wrench/cheater bar if the vicegrips fail again.
 
It looks like you have access to the outside part of the head, so something like this should work:

https://www.amazon.com/Segomo-Tools-Extractor-Removal-Metric/dp/B07TN1BM24

The idea is to hammer one on where the inside ridges are just ever so slightly smaller than the head of the bolt. As you twist it out, they will bite in and grab hold of even a completely round surface.

Harbor Freight also sells a set of extractor sockets that are a slightly different design but work on the same principle. I was pleasantly surprised when one of them removed a severely rounded exhaust nut on my Camry, holding up to use on an impact just fine.
 
I don't understand why manufacturers are using allen, torx, etc...rather than plain bolt heads in applications like these....
 
I thought it was gonna be a rough day today after my genie garage door remote broke off at the connector. Went for the key and the manual override and the lock was seized. I was able to strip down some wires and get in fortunately or I would have been drilling my garage door lock out.

MISSION ACCOMPLISHED ON MY SIEZED CALIPER BOLT.

Thanks so much for all your guys help. I ended up picking up a bolt extractor made in the good ol' USA and it got the job done.

I did take bits and pieces of all ya'lls advice. Ultimately, hammering on a 16mm extractor socket , combined with 'real' penetrating fluid (i.e. PB Blaster) and heat got the job done. As mentioned, heat really made the difference.

I learn so much from this forum. This type of work does not come natural to me, and it's a challenge for sure. However, I find DIY makes me a better overall engineer and wrenching in many ways is very similar to writing software, which is what I do for my day job.



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[Linked Image from i.ibb.co]
 
Originally Posted by Gebo
I was previously taught on the forum the value of heat on a stuck bolt. It doesn't make sense to me about how heat works as it looks like it would expand both pieces making them tighter???


If locktite is there, it loosens it. But the expansion from heating helps break the binding from corrosion.

That's part of why welding a nut on works so well. The heat from welding breaks some of the corrosion bond.
 
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Originally Posted by spasm3
Originally Posted by Gebo
I was previously taught on the forum the value of heat on a stuck bolt. It doesn't make sense to me about how heat works as it looks like it would expand both pieces making them tighter???


If locktite is there, it loosens it. But the expansion from heating helps break the binding from corrosion.

That's part of why welding a nut on works so well. The heat from welding breaks see of the corrosion bond.


For sure. And you don't need a high end torch either for these small jobs. One of those el-cheapo refillable butane torches they sell at home depot for less than $10 worked really well here.
 
Originally Posted by JeffKeryk
Well done. Throw that fastener in the garbage, where it belongs.


I just ordered 4 new ones from a local VW dealer for $1.33 each. The hex head design is terrible, but I prefer to stay with OEM.

I know I can re-use them, (well, other than the one that got munched
lol.gif
) , but now I have the proper tools might as well do all 4 new and torque to spec at 90 ftl/lbs.
 
Originally Posted by lairdwd
JeffKeryk said:
I just ordered 4 new ones from a local VW dealer for $1.33 each. The hex head design is terrible, but I prefer to stay with OEM.

I know I can re-use them, (well, other than the one that got munched
lol.gif
) , but now I have the proper tools might as well do all 4 new and torque to spec at 90 ftl/lbs.

Actually, cap screws are excellant. Except the buggered up one, of course.
Just use quality allen hex tools.
Again, well done!
 
I got to give the made in America Irwin a shout out. I wish Lowes would stock more of their high quality American gear like this.
cheers3.gif


I read the reviews on the harbor freight Chinese brand and one guy said they didn't have enough bite for his VW hex bolt and failed miserably.

For most applications, the harbor freight is fine, They may make a good backup beater set if you do a lot of this. But I suspect the Harbor Freight would not have worked here .
 
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a vice grip trick I learned long ago- clamp on vice grip-use 2nd set of vice grips to tighten the screw on the first set. you get them way more tight this way
 
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