benefits of synth ATF for power steering?

[bfg9k]

Are the benefits of synthetic ATF in a power steering system similar to that of synth oil: better at low temps, resists breakdown at high?

I'm gearing up to change the PS fluid on my Subaru (I'm pretty sure it's the original from '98!) and will do the same on my '01 Saab while I'm at it. I'm planning on the SF HPSGlide fluid since I'll be using their Autoglide in the Saab's tranny. I was just wondering about the long and short term benefits of the switch.

 

[Big Jim]

All the benefits that you mentioned are correct. Isn't that enough?

 

[bfg9k]

Well I didn't know if there was more to the story

 

[Kestas]

You'll get better steering performance during those cold snaps in the wintertime, it won't feel as arthritic.

 

[tmorris1]

I was thinking of changing out my F-150 power steering fluid with Mobil 1 using the "turkey baster method". My hope was better cold weather performance. It now has 90K on it. I don't think there would be any problem with a synthetic after that many miles?

 

[Kestas]

I think it's a good plan.

 

[oil pan 4]

In maine if you didn't use ATF, in winter the temp would dip to -20F there would be several seconds of no power steering when you first start up.
ATF fixs that.

 

[Gary Allan]

My mother's power steering would be in pressure relief in sub-freezing weather ..just turning the wheel (not at lock). I had her mechanic change it out with M1 ATF ..no more whine when turning the wheel when cold.

 

[abimanyu]

I use Redline Synthetic ATF for my powersteering, great stuff!!!!

 

[SteveD2]

amsoil atf as psf here...in a flogged miata (~10k on fluid) and a daily driver montero (~30k).

during the change it was obvious that the new juice foamed far less than the outgoing, whatever that means.

it significantly lightened the steering in the montero, but made little difference in feel on the miata. it never really gets cold here.

i expect to realize synthetics extended drain characteristics as well.

To be honest, if I didn't have some atf left over from a tranny service, i probably wouldn't have used fancy fluid...but i definitely will from now on.

$0.02,

 

[jeepzj]

Using a turkey baster will probably still leave some PS fluid in the system. Would that hurt anythng if switching to ATF with some PS fluid in the mix?

 

[pbm]

quote:

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Originally posted by jeepzj:
Using a turkey baster will probably still leave some PS fluid in the system. Would that hurt anythng if switching to ATF with some PS fluid in the mix?

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When changing PS fluid using the turkey baster method you are changing only what is in the reservoir and not what is in the lines,pump and unit. Can anybody tell me if what is in the reservoir will eventually mix with what is in these other places? If someone was to use the turkey baster method to change brake fluid in the reservoir they would have fresh fluid in their reservoir but their wheel cylinders would still have old, moisture laden fluid. Is it the same with PS fluid?

Jeepzj: If it mixes then you will have a semi-syn PS fluid if it doesn't then you have fresh syn fluid in your reservoir and old regular fluid in the lines, pump and unit.

 

['Tard]

It does mix, though there is a simple way to change the fluid completely in one shot.
Jack up front end and jack stand so the front wheels are off the ground.
Suck out with baster as much fluid from reservoir as you can.
Remove return line to reservoir and put into a large clear container.
Cap off the fitting on the reservoir where the return hose attached.
Add some new PS fluid to the reservoir, let it settle a few minutes to allow any bubbles to rise.
With engine OFF, turn wheels lock to lock this will pump the fluid through the system and out the return hose., adding fluid to reservoir but not filling it, half full is good.
Keep turning wheels till all the old fluid has pumped through being replaced by the new fluid.
Remove cap from the return line fitting on the reservoir and reattach the return line.
Add some new PS fluid, do not fill as this will allow any air bubbles to migrate out of the lines, wiggleing them is allowed.
After that, fill with new fluid, do not overfill.
Turn the wheels lock to lock some more to circulate fluid.
Clean up the hoses and such.
Lower truck.
Start engine and turn wheel lock to lock taking care to let it stay at lock only a couple of seconds.
Turn off engine and check PS level, add if needed.
Go for a drive to warm up the system and test.
When you come back, look for any hose leaks at the fittings.
Enjoy your complete fluid change.

You can also put Arx in the old fluid before you do the PS fluid swap to clean up the pump, passages, seals, hoses, a thousand miles should do it.
Ask Frank for confirmation.

 

[bfg9k]

I just changed the fluid yesterday, I wound up using Redline's power steering fluid.

I used the turkey baster and got out a 0.3 qt (total capacity is 0.7 qt), and topped off with Redline. I then drove the car a bit, and turnded the wheel lock-to-lock a few times. I repeated the turkey baster, got out another 0.3 qt, topped off again, and called it a day. I figure it should be roughly 3/4 new fluid. The old stuff was still bright red, not burnt or brown, and I used 2/3 of the quart of Redline.

Now I just need some 0F temperatures to notice a difference

 

[SteveD2]

fwiw...

one of my vehicles has an oem tranny cooler. a complete system flush was easy...just disconnect the lines from the cooler, stick the line in into a catch bottle, the line out into a resivoir of new fluid, and run the pump until you've moved slightly more than the stated capacity of the system. make sure the reservoir is large enough (and full enough) that you don't suck any air into the system!

same goes for the power steering if you've got a convenient place to disconnect lines...perhaps the rack?

 

[bmwtechguy]

We regularly flush out power steering and transmission fluid with new fluid of choice using a similar method to 'Tard's post above, except we run the engine/ power steering pump while turning the wheel from lock to lock immediately shutting off the engine each time when you hear the thing go dry (you'll loose pwr. assist at the same time). After 2-4 complete fill-ups of the reservoir, you will have a complete changeout of the fluid in the whole system- steering gear, cooler and lines. I made up a hose years ago for this purpose on BMW's that I connect to the return line of the PS reservoir so that the fluid flushing out can be directed to a pan or clear bottle. Stop when the fluid comes out the new color or clean. Then just reconnect the low pressure return hose to PS reservoir and refill/run and check level. I have never experienced any pump damage flushing this way for 20+ years on any vehicle. Remember, we're talking about running the pump (trans. or PS) without fluid for only a second AND at idle speeds. I prefer "total loss" flush verses the turkey baster, which always mixes the new and old fluid and prevents a complete changeout. Although some new fluid is better than none. I now also run a little ARX in the old fluid for about 1500 miles before changing to clean up whatever gunk might be lurking in the steering gear/valves on my personal vehicles.

 

[Audi Junkie]

I used SUPERTECH Multi-ATF and it's great. I flushed with normal Dex for a month or so. I just remove the returnhose for my services. Or you can crank it dry after baster removal, it gets the last few oz and then fill with fresh fluid , then do-over in a while is a good technique.