+ 1 ^^^^^
Been following the 0W/20 etc. saga...
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Originally Posted By: Jeff_in_VABch
Are you nuts? There are so many Toyota engine failures it's crazy to take chances with these engines. And the dealer is 100% certain to deny the warranty unless you have all service work done there.
http://www.consumeraffairs.com/automotive/toyota_engine.html
You know, when looking at this web site, I didn't notice any failures that were related to 20 weight oils.
Are you nuts? There are so many Toyota engine failures it's crazy to take chances with these engines. And the dealer is 100% certain to deny the warranty unless you have all service work done there.
http://www.consumeraffairs.com/automotive/toyota_engine.html
You know, when looking at this web site, I didn't notice any failures that were related to 20 weight oils.
+1 !!!!
Since 2002, we have enjoyed the problem free performance
of 8 Toyota/Lexus vehicles. Absolutely NO problems whatsoever, especially NO engine problems. We fully realize ours is a small sampling of the total out there, but the overall PROBLEM FREE performance of these vehicles has been the
best of the many makes we have owned.
Since 2002, we have enjoyed the problem free performance
of 8 Toyota/Lexus vehicles. Absolutely NO problems whatsoever, especially NO engine problems. We fully realize ours is a small sampling of the total out there, but the overall PROBLEM FREE performance of these vehicles has been the
best of the many makes we have owned.
You're right but everyone knows using a 20wt oil, especially a 0W-20 can cause all kinds of problems, everything from male pattern baldness to impotence and that's why real men will never use 20wt oil.
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
You're right but everyone knows using a 20wt oil, especially a 0W-20 can cause all kinds of problems, everything from male pattern baldness to impotence and that's why real men will never use 20wt oil.
If 0W-20 was easier to find and the only one they had wasnt Mobil 1 AFE, id use it. I like a thicker 20 (the actual 30) most of the time, so id get the ail order Redline if my car needed a 30 and liked a light or medium 30. Until then, i buy the Supertech 5W-20. Put it in my aunt's car that is doomed to die, no amount of love will save it, not with an owner like that, no. Ford Focus is one of the marvels of 20th century technology. That oil is emerging as a faorite of mine, too. Go conventional! but, careful, it might be radioactive and cause lupus. After all, it DOES say 5W-20 on the jug. I know that more often than not, its FINE. Unless your engine is screwed. Then it might not be fine, and also might.
Now, as to the other stigmas of 20 weight oil, and also CATERHAM i have a question, you are the resident expert AFAIAC: Is it true that you shouldnt put it in cars from the 80s and the 90s "beause those cars were made for 30 weight oil?" Or can you give it a shot.. what are some signs, for cars that do NOT have a toil pressure gauge?
5W-20, i could put it in almost anything except for some cars that are known to like a 40. Id probably go a 30 or 40 in those, depending on how thick it really is.
HTSS+RR with the 0W-20 in the E430 is making me think about what you CANT do with 0W-20. Or 5W-20. Seems the 5W-20 really IS fine, since 0W-20 is hard to find at Walmart. And thats the only place i buy most anything..................
You're right but everyone knows using a 20wt oil, especially a 0W-20 can cause all kinds of problems, everything from male pattern baldness to impotence and that's why real men will never use 20wt oil.
If 0W-20 was easier to find and the only one they had wasnt Mobil 1 AFE, id use it. I like a thicker 20 (the actual 30) most of the time, so id get the ail order Redline if my car needed a 30 and liked a light or medium 30. Until then, i buy the Supertech 5W-20. Put it in my aunt's car that is doomed to die, no amount of love will save it, not with an owner like that, no. Ford Focus is one of the marvels of 20th century technology. That oil is emerging as a faorite of mine, too. Go conventional! but, careful, it might be radioactive and cause lupus. After all, it DOES say 5W-20 on the jug. I know that more often than not, its FINE. Unless your engine is screwed. Then it might not be fine, and also might.
Now, as to the other stigmas of 20 weight oil, and also CATERHAM i have a question, you are the resident expert AFAIAC: Is it true that you shouldnt put it in cars from the 80s and the 90s "beause those cars were made for 30 weight oil?" Or can you give it a shot.. what are some signs, for cars that do NOT have a toil pressure gauge?
5W-20, i could put it in almost anything except for some cars that are known to like a 40. Id probably go a 30 or 40 in those, depending on how thick it really is.
HTSS+RR with the 0W-20 in the E430 is making me think about what you CANT do with 0W-20. Or 5W-20. Seems the 5W-20 really IS fine, since 0W-20 is hard to find at Walmart. And thats the only place i buy most anything..................
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
My ford engine is toast on 5w-20. It's only got 6K miles and rapping like XZBit... Combo of bad coil and ??? Dealer wont touch it untill it breaks. Fuel mileage is down to 22 from averaging 27-30.
How do you destroy cars so quickly? I mean jeez.
My ford engine is toast on 5w-20. It's only got 6K miles and rapping like XZBit... Combo of bad coil and ??? Dealer wont touch it untill it breaks. Fuel mileage is down to 22 from averaging 27-30.
How do you destroy cars so quickly? I mean jeez.
Originally Posted By: CMMeadAM
LOL ! And the mere mention of 20 wt oil with many causes
a TOS ( Thin Oil Syndrome ) to appear, just like a rash......
Can cause low sperm count, gout, death.
Seriouslt though, i did used to think anything less than 30 weight was unacceptable. I now think that is NOT true, in 90% of cases.
And yes, there are cars where a 20-wt is a POOR choice. And those tend to be ANYTHIGN that goes to a track.
LOL ! And the mere mention of 20 wt oil with many causes
a TOS ( Thin Oil Syndrome ) to appear, just like a rash......
Can cause low sperm count, gout, death.
Seriouslt though, i did used to think anything less than 30 weight was unacceptable. I now think that is NOT true, in 90% of cases.
And yes, there are cars where a 20-wt is a POOR choice. And those tend to be ANYTHIGN that goes to a track.
Originally Posted By: 45ACP
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Is it true that you shouldnt put it in cars from the 80s and the 90s "beause those cars were made for 30 weight oil?" Or can you give it a shot.. what are some signs, for cars that do NOT have a toil pressure gauge?
HTSS+RR with the 0W-20 in the E430 is making me think about what you CANT do with 0W-20. Or 5W-20. Seems the 5W-20 really IS fine, since 0W-20 is hard to find at Walmart. And thats the only place i buy most anything..................
Actually the 0W-20 grade can be sourced very easily since all the Japanese manufacturers specify the oil. Just go to any Toyota, Lexus, Honda, Acura, Subaru or Mazda dealer and you'll find it.
You can run a 20wt oil in virtually any vehicle that spec's a 30wt if not a 40wt oil regardless of the model year, particularly if you drive like a nanny as most North Americans do, but for piece of mind I do recommend installing an oil pressure gauge. With an OP gauge it is impossible to run an oil too light assuming you know how to read it. With an OP gauge you'll likely find that it's actually very difficult too get the oil too light even driving as hard as possible on the hottest days you still can't get the oil hot enough to get the OP dangerously low.
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Is it true that you shouldnt put it in cars from the 80s and the 90s "beause those cars were made for 30 weight oil?" Or can you give it a shot.. what are some signs, for cars that do NOT have a toil pressure gauge?
HTSS+RR with the 0W-20 in the E430 is making me think about what you CANT do with 0W-20. Or 5W-20. Seems the 5W-20 really IS fine, since 0W-20 is hard to find at Walmart. And thats the only place i buy most anything..................
Actually the 0W-20 grade can be sourced very easily since all the Japanese manufacturers specify the oil. Just go to any Toyota, Lexus, Honda, Acura, Subaru or Mazda dealer and you'll find it.
You can run a 20wt oil in virtually any vehicle that spec's a 30wt if not a 40wt oil regardless of the model year, particularly if you drive like a nanny as most North Americans do, but for piece of mind I do recommend installing an oil pressure gauge. With an OP gauge it is impossible to run an oil too light assuming you know how to read it. With an OP gauge you'll likely find that it's actually very difficult too get the oil too light even driving as hard as possible on the hottest days you still can't get the oil hot enough to get the OP dangerously low.
The use of 0W20 oil is most definitely not intended to be a universal application Each engine, it's MFR specs, and actual use dictate the engine protection required by oil. Following MFR specs are always best and proper OCI's occasionally supplemented with COMPLETE Oil analysis ( including TBN, TAN and Particle Counts ) can contribute to maintaining the best protection for ones engine. It's all up to the individual and their choices.
There is NOT however, any reason to fear the use of 0w20
oil when it is is specified by the MFR.
There is NOT however, any reason to fear the use of 0w20
oil when it is is specified by the MFR.
Originally Posted By: 45ACP
Originally Posted By: CMMeadAM
there are cars where a 20-wt is a POOR choice. And those tend to be ANYTHIGN that goes to a track.
Again not necessarily.
The spec' oil for my Caterham is a 40wt and I don't need anything heavier than a shear stable HTHSV 2.6cP 20wt oil on the track since I have the bulk oil temp's well under control; rarely gets above 95C and therefore my OP never drops below 65-70 psi at high rev's.
Originally Posted By: CMMeadAM
there are cars where a 20-wt is a POOR choice. And those tend to be ANYTHIGN that goes to a track.
Again not necessarily.
The spec' oil for my Caterham is a 40wt and I don't need anything heavier than a shear stable HTHSV 2.6cP 20wt oil on the track since I have the bulk oil temp's well under control; rarely gets above 95C and therefore my OP never drops below 65-70 psi at high rev's.
+1 Over the years, many of the cars we have/had oil pressure
gauges in them, and for those that didn't we installed them, or used a temporary installation of both oil pressure and temperature gauges. We can confirm Caterham's comments.
Unless we're tracking the car, or pulling a trailer with
the trucks up hills at high speeds, the oil temps rarely, if ever. get hot enough to adversely affect the oil pressure or get anywhere close to danger levels. Dr, Hass has confirmed
the same in his light oil experiments with his exotics.
gauges in them, and for those that didn't we installed them, or used a temporary installation of both oil pressure and temperature gauges. We can confirm Caterham's comments.
Unless we're tracking the car, or pulling a trailer with
the trucks up hills at high speeds, the oil temps rarely, if ever. get hot enough to adversely affect the oil pressure or get anywhere close to danger levels. Dr, Hass has confirmed
the same in his light oil experiments with his exotics.
And since you mentioned the good Doctor, the oils he runs in his toys is not as light as you'd think; he does like to exaggerate for effect!
The RLI 0W-20 being a bio-ester based oil has a HTHSV in the 3.0-3.3cP range,is more typical of a 30wt oil. He sure isn't using a typically OTC HTHSV 2.6cP 20wt that most of us use.
And the 0W-30 with it's HTHSV in the 3.6-3.8cP range more like a light 40wt.
The RLI 0W-20 being a bio-ester based oil has a HTHSV in the 3.0-3.3cP range,is more typical of a 30wt oil. He sure isn't using a typically OTC HTHSV 2.6cP 20wt that most of us use.
And the 0W-30 with it's HTHSV in the 3.6-3.8cP range more like a light 40wt.
I recall you having mentioned that information in a few other posts. We do have to give him credit however, from deviating
from the Factory specs and trying different applications
soley for his own informative purposes, and then informing
others. Similar to your own exploration don't you think ? Nothing like curiosity to explore into new territory.
We've explored some of the RLI product with satisfactory results, but not in any of our "street" cars.
from the Factory specs and trying different applications
soley for his own informative purposes, and then informing
others. Similar to your own exploration don't you think ? Nothing like curiosity to explore into new territory.
We've explored some of the RLI product with satisfactory results, but not in any of our "street" cars.
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
You can run a 20wt oil in virtually any vehicle that spec's a 30wt if not a 40wt oil regardless of the model year, particularly if you drive like a nanny as most North Americans do, but for piece of mind I do recommend installing an oil pressure gauge.
When Ford back-specd most of their engines to use 5w20 they kept 5w30 for a few. Was this likely due to engine design or oil pump design?
The car i'm thinking of is the Ford Probe with the Mazda built KL V6 engine, which didn't make the 5w20 approved list.
You can run a 20wt oil in virtually any vehicle that spec's a 30wt if not a 40wt oil regardless of the model year, particularly if you drive like a nanny as most North Americans do, but for piece of mind I do recommend installing an oil pressure gauge.
When Ford back-specd most of their engines to use 5w20 they kept 5w30 for a few. Was this likely due to engine design or oil pump design?
The car i'm thinking of is the Ford Probe with the Mazda built KL V6 engine, which didn't make the 5w20 approved list.
Originally Posted By: hominid7
When Ford back-specd most of their engines to use 5w20 they kept 5w30 for a few. Was this likely due to engine design or oil pump design?
From what I understand, it was the oil pump.
When Ford back-specd most of their engines to use 5w20 they kept 5w30 for a few. Was this likely due to engine design or oil pump design?
From what I understand, it was the oil pump.
Originally Posted By: Garak
From what I understand, it was the oil pump.
That's what i was thinking it had to be. It would be interesting to know what differences viscosity made with older pumps...
From what I understand, it was the oil pump.
That's what i was thinking it had to be. It would be interesting to know what differences viscosity made with older pumps...
Originally Posted By: hominid7
That's what i was thinking it had to be. It would be interesting to know what differences viscosity made with older pumps...
I'm not exactly positive; others know a lot more about that than I do. If you check Ford's list, it seemed that certain engines (at least in certain applications) were excluded from the 5w-20 back spec, notably the 302 and the 4.0 L V6, from my quick skimming of the document. I'm sure the 300 straight six wasn't back speced either.
That's what i was thinking it had to be. It would be interesting to know what differences viscosity made with older pumps...
I'm not exactly positive; others know a lot more about that than I do. If you check Ford's list, it seemed that certain engines (at least in certain applications) were excluded from the 5w-20 back spec, notably the 302 and the 4.0 L V6, from my quick skimming of the document. I'm sure the 300 straight six wasn't back speced either.
I have heard the 4.6L V8, sometimes called an "InTech V8" from Ford in 1997 Lincoln Mark VIII guise (i like that car) that is found in the Lincoln Town Car, Ford Thunderbird, Mercury Cougar XR7, Lincon Mark VII and Mark VIII *they used to have the 5.0 in them - can do well on 5W-20.
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
You're right but everyone knows using a 20wt oil, especially a 0W-20 can cause all kinds of problems, everything from male pattern baldness to impotence and that's why real men will never use 20wt oil.
Wow, it does all of that huh?
You're right but everyone knows using a 20wt oil, especially a 0W-20 can cause all kinds of problems, everything from male pattern baldness to impotence and that's why real men will never use 20wt oil.
Wow, it does all of that huh?
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