Balljoint and axles, how much is this gunna cost?

Messages
1,577
Location
stamford, CT
I need a new axle, for my 95 neon, ATX. Been driving around with a torn outer boot for a year now, so was recommended i replace the axle. Mobil mechanic donstreet, uses quality parts like MOnroe, so my best guess, the axle would be cardone possibly. He charges abuot $80 an hour labor..i was looking to have both axles done. I already purchased 2 new wheel bearings, and2 new balljoints form NAPA. I do know, the mechanic also goes by a book cost for labor. How much does everyone think, i might end up paying for this job?
 
Messages
25,171
Location
Upstate NY
Why both axles done? Unless the other has a rip it could last a long time. And why new wheel bearings and ball joints? If your mechanic charges book rate they is no reason to get anything done in combo.
 
Messages
3,668
Location
Phoenix, AZ
If you get multiple things done, he shouldn't charge you for book value on the items seperately. I just had a ball joint/lower control arm replaced and it was 1 hour labor. Not sure but maybe 3 hours or so?
 

ziggy

Thread starter
Messages
1,577
Location
stamford, CT
OK cool. I wa always taught, with suspension, yuo do things in sets...like struts n shocks, brakes and rotors. Chances are, if one side is shot, matter of time before the other side goes. It lokos easy enuogh to myself, but have been told by other neon mechancis, better to have a pro do it.. so wanted too see, what kinda cost in ,labor this can/might cost me.
 
Messages
19,479
Location
Chicago Area
There should be less costs with your combination job, for sure. Get this straight with him beforehand. Even if he uses the 'book', remind him that the book is predicated on doing each job individually.
 

Kestas

Staff member
Messages
13,820
Location
The Motor City
Bearings, including CV joints, are not replaced in pairs. When that kind of work is done under warranty, it is not authorized to replace in pairs unless both sides are diagnosed to be bad (which happens only rarely). They aren't wear items in the traditional sense of "wear". They either work or they're bad.
 
Messages
7,771
Location
Oklahoma
If you turn your wheels sharp left or right while driving and you don't hear any "clicking" sounds, I'd say the CV joints are fine.
 

ziggy

Thread starter
Messages
1,577
Location
stamford, CT
I hear the click noise, moreso when making a right turn, even though its the drivers side axle boot. It clicks for 2 or 3 seconds then stops..and i can feel the cars suspension kinda jerk, or bounce.
 
Messages
2,097
Location
kansastan
 Originally Posted By: Kestas
Bearings, including CV joints, are not replaced in pairs. When that kind of work is done under warranty, it is not authorized to replace in pairs unless both sides are diagnosed to be bad (which happens only rarely). They aren't wear items in the traditional sense of "wear". They either work or they're bad.
So if a front wheel bearing (let's say on a '94 Chevy Corsica) fails at 170,000 miles, then you would only replace the failed bearing? 'Cause the other might have quite a lot of life in it? What if the 'other' bearing was slightly loose (only slightly), but otherwise smooth and trouble-free?
 
Messages
16,125
Location
Silicon Valley
Usually you replace the axles with the bearing if it is a high mileage car, because otherwise the wear on their contact interface may cause a clearance problem if you just replace one but not the other.
 

ziggy

Thread starter
Messages
1,577
Location
stamford, CT
I see, gotcha! I have already purchased a NAPA bearing..ratehr i belive its the hub assembly. SO, would it be wise, to use a NAP remanufactured axle, rather than a quality one the mobil mechanic would use? Or it donst make a differnece really?
 
Messages
16,125
Location
Silicon Valley
 Originally Posted By: ziggy
I see, gotcha! I have already purchased a NAPA bearing..ratehr i belive its the hub assembly. SO, would it be wise, to use a NAP remanufactured axle, rather than a quality one the mobil mechanic would use? Or it donst make a differnece really?
As long as they are good quality it doesn't matter which brand they are, and they all have to follow the original spec (clearance, dimension, tolerance, etc).
 

ziggy

Thread starter
Messages
1,577
Location
stamford, CT
Yeah, gotcha. I really wanted to try and do this myself, but im just a basic oil changer, tire changer, max of anytig i could do, is gas tank removal and installation..oh and have done twice, my own brake pads.. Think i could this, even thuogh i dont have air tools? i have LOTS of tools..or should i leave this to a pro?
 
Messages
2,097
Location
kansastan
 Originally Posted By: PandaBear
Usually you replace the axles with the bearing if it is a high mileage car, because otherwise the wear on their contact interface may cause a clearance problem if you just replace one but not the other.
I should've been more clear that I was addressing the question specifically to Kestas- 'cause he's a bearing engineer. And you're not.
 
Messages
16,125
Location
Silicon Valley
 Originally Posted By: ziggy
Yeah, gotcha. I really wanted to try and do this myself, but im just a basic oil changer, tire changer, max of anytig i could do, is gas tank removal and installation..oh and have done twice, my own brake pads.. Think i could this, even thuogh i dont have air tools? i have LOTS of tools..or should i leave this to a pro?
Expect the unexpected, and do it when you can afford a lot of down time, towing in the worst case, etc. The first time I replace the struts myself the ratchet snapped, the spring compressor won't clear the strut dust cover, and all sorts of things happened. In the end you learn to do these kind of things only when you have a loaner car and on the days when the parts stores are open.
 
Messages
1,225
Location
SW Michigan
changing the front CV axles can be involved depending on how much of the front suspension you need to tear apart to remove the axle. Bearing wise, be prepared to need a good press unless you've got bearing/hub unit like some of the gm FWD cars, where the unit it one piece and it just bolts into the steering knuckle. UNlike my subaru (92) where the bearing and seals are pressed into the knuckle and then the Hub is pressed into that.
 
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