Ball joint getting the best of me.

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This is on my 2005 Infiniti G35x with 150k, which has been in the rust belt its whole life.

So I was doing my driver's side control arm. Typical inner bushing went bad, I got a new arm. Turns out sway bar end link was bad as well and my ball joint had some play. Not completely bad, the boot was still there but a little too easy to push around. The wheel had no play when I checked.

With the arm removed, i figure it was cake. Pop the snap ring off from the bottom, took a couple smacks with a 3lb hammer and nothing. I rented the ball joint press. Loaded everything up and it didn't budge. Actually the threaded rod broke off a couple of threads before ball joint pop out. It's pretty dang on in there.Â

I've done ball joints before, the ones all had the ball joint drop out from the bottom. So a hammer made it easy. the G35 has the ball joint coming up. A lot harder to get leverage when on floor jacks.Â

Without the snap ring, what is holding the ball joint in? RUST fusion again? I made sure the ball joint had room to clear the cup. And I tighten the press using an impact and then a 3ft breaker bar. I was worried, I know its an OEM unit, could it be tack welded on?Â

Took a peek at youtube, couldn't find an AWD video but plenty of RWD and very similar setup but I have an axle slightly in the way. They pressed them out without any issues. Since the original ball joint wasn't completely bad, I put everything back together and I might try again on the weekend or ignore until completely bad.Â
 
Originally Posted by P10crew
Heat it up



Not part of my tool box. I soaked the [censored] out of the ball joint.

The yellow can from homedepot worth anything in terms of heat? I know its not longer real MAPP gas.
 
last ball joint i had issues with was on a nissan versa.

eventually i was able to grind the outer ridge off and take the ball part out of the socket, then i punched out the bottom cap so I could get a saw zall blade through the center and i cut into it almost all the way through and that was enough to make it give so i could punch it out the rest of the way.
 
Originally Posted by Scuder
Get one of those trigger fired Bernzomatic torches with a bottle of Mapp gas. It's not too expensive. You'll wonder how you ever lived without it. It'll get warm enough to loosen the ball joint. If the control arm is aluminum, you don't want to get it all that hot anyway.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Bernzomatic-TS4000KC-Trigger-Start-Torch-Kit-TS4000KC/203368730


I'll consider picking one up. Im a simple DIY guy, if things get annoying i just take it to the shop.

I get the hammering now working but i figure the press should be golden. Ive done 3 others, 2 hammers and 1 press. All non nissans LOL

Originally Posted by Black_Thunder
last ball joint i had issues with was on a nissan versa.

eventually i was able to grind the outer ridge off and take the ball part out of the socket, then i punched out the bottom cap so I could get a saw zall blade through the center and i cut into it almost all the way through and that was enough to make it give so i could punch it out the rest of the way.


See if the ball joint was complete junk, i wouldn't mind going crazy on it. But it still kinda good. Boot not broken, its not sloppy like a limp noodle. But just has a little more play then i would like.
 
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Originally Posted by bowlofturtle
Originally Posted by Scuder
Get one of those trigger fired Bernzomatic torches with a bottle of Mapp gas. It's not too expensive. You'll wonder how you ever lived without it. It'll get warm enough to loosen the ball joint. If the control arm is aluminum, you don't want to get it all that hot anyway.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Bernzomatic-TS4000KC-Trigger-Start-Torch-Kit-TS4000KC/203368730


I'll consider picking one up. Im a simple DIY guy, if things get annoying i just take it to the shop.

I get the hammering now working but i figure the press should be golden. Ive done 3 others, 2 hammers and 1 press. All non nissans LOL

Originally Posted by Black_Thunder
last ball joint i had issues with was on a nissan versa.

eventually i was able to grind the outer ridge off and take the ball part out of the socket, then i punched out the bottom cap so I could get a saw zall blade through the center and i cut into it almost all the way through and that was enough to make it give so i could punch it out the rest of the way.


See if the ball joint was complete junk, i wouldn't mind going crazy on it. But it still kinda good. Boot not broken, its not sloppy like a limp noodle. But just has a little more play then i would like.




ah i see, in that case i would have used a grease needle and filled the boot up with grease before reinstalling to help with the little bit of play.


the nissan i worked on had excessive play and the car was shaking badly especially when the brake was applied it was like a death wobble and it was scrubbing off the tire.
 
If rust is the issue, Maxdustington on this forum once gave me a tip to remove a rusted EGR connection.
I had tried PB Blaster soaking, hammering, big wrenches, nothing worked.
I put ATF on the rusted connection, a few taps with a hammer and it broke loose in short time with little effort.
His tip was "Use acetone + ATF. I had a stuck clutch bleeder that PB could not break lose. I applied that mixture and it came off with minimal effort. That sold me on it for stuff that PB can't loosen or stuff you will only get one shot at, like a brake bleeder."
I just used straight ATF and worked great for me.
I also use Mapp gas torch when heat won't damage the part or surrounding areas or nothing flammable near by.
 
*Edit to add this video - its not a 'ball joint' as we commonly know them but a rod-end is still a ball-joint and can give you an idea of how they work..
 
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I have never seen a clip that held a ball joint in like you describe. They all press in. I think you remove the arm with the ball joint in it then have it pressed out. Can you post a pic?
 
Are you sure the clip needs to be removed? Most with the clip I have done the clip is used as a stop as you press in until you hit the clip then you know it is pressed in far enough. If that is the case then you are pressing it in instead of out.
 
Maybe I'm bad at describing things.

But this video is what I'm doing. Ball joint part starts at 1:25- ends about 2:15.

https://youtu.be/CJrMvjdhCDA

Granted I'm on the ground but my IR2135 impact couldn't press more. And the large threaded rod started to get damaged. So I stopped.
 
Yeah, rust can make it difficult.

I have good luck using a combination of methods.

First, load it up tight with the press.
Second, smash the knuckle where the ball joint is pressed in with a mallet.
Reload the press
Smash
Press
Smash

Sometimes to get it started, you have to throw a round of heat (on the knuckle) in there.

Air hammer is a tremendous help over a mallet, but both get the job done.
 
Originally Posted by bowlofturtle
This is on my 2005 Infiniti G35x with 150k, which has been in the rust belt its whole life.

So I was doing my driver's side control arm. Typical inner bushing went bad, I got a new arm. Turns out sway bar end link was bad as well and my ball joint had some play. Not completely bad, the boot was still there but a little too easy to push around. The wheel had no play when I checked.

With the arm removed, i figure it was cake. Pop the snap ring off from the bottom, took a couple smacks with a 3lb hammer and nothing. I rented the ball joint press. Loaded everything up and it didn't budge. Actually the threaded rod broke off a couple of threads before ball joint pop out. It's pretty dang on in there.Â

I've done ball joints before, the ones all had the ball joint drop out from the bottom. So a hammer made it easy. the G35 has the ball joint coming up. A lot harder to get leverage when on floor jacks.Â

Without the snap ring, what is holding the ball joint in? RUST fusion again? I made sure the ball joint had room to clear the cup. And I tighten the press using an impact and then a 3ft breaker bar. I was worried, I know its an OEM unit, could it be tack welded on?Â

Took a peek at youtube, couldn't find an AWD video but plenty of RWD and very similar setup but I have an axle slightly in the way. They pressed them out without any issues. Since the original ball joint wasn't completely bad, I put everything back together and I might try again on the weekend or ignore until completely bad.Â

Heat then spray with your favorite penetrating oil . Repeat as needed .
 
Originally Posted by emmett442
Yeah, rust can make it difficult.

I have good luck using a combination of methods.

First, load it up tight with the press.
Second, smash the knuckle where the ball joint is pressed in with a mallet.
Reload the press
Smash
Press
Smash

Sometimes to get it started, you have to throw a round of heat (on the knuckle) in there.

Air hammer is a tremendous help over a mallet, but both get the job done.

+1
 
You're dealing with a conical wedge fit held together by a nut capable of 80 pounds of torque. It isnt rust, its force of habit. Anyway, no heat, no air, just hammers ranging from 4 oz-12 lbs. Back off the nut but leave it on. Apply upward pressure. A bottle jack or leverage. Don't expect this to pop it. But it puts tension on it. Apply hammer to socket.It will pop, eventually. If you're in a hurry, use a bigger hammer. I use a 2' length of threaded rod propped in place with dunnage. This allows me to deliver a direct full swing from a 6 pound maul. Set up is a PITN, but hasn't failed yet. If it does, I have bigger hammers.
grin2.gif
 
Originally Posted by emmett442
Yeah, rust can make it difficult.

I have good luck using a combination of methods.

First, load it up tight with the press.
Second, smash the knuckle where the ball joint is pressed in with a mallet.
Reload the press
Smash
Press
Smash

Sometimes to get it started, you have to throw a round of heat (on the knuckle) in there.

Air hammer is a tremendous help over a mallet, but both get the job done.



As soon as I read that, I had to check your location - yep, this here is a man who knows what it's like to live in the rust belt.
 
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