Backyard Shed & Wood Rot

[MasterSolenoid]

My backyard Shed - Installed 1997 / Cost $1,087. I have always kept it painted and it still looks good, but I just noticed a Corner Trim piece was rotted (at the bottom). As you can see in the photo, a small area had a break in the paint, allowing water to begin the decay process. This was the 2nd time I have replaced a trim piece. My solution was to attach Drip Edges to Corner Trim and Front of Door. Made out of 1/8 x 2" aluminum with an overhang of 3/8" I think my 'future' self will thank me. I'll still be diligent about inspecting the paint and touch up if needed / hopefully I won't be replacing any more wood boards. I know a lot of people don't have the time (my neighbors and relatives; "oy vey") But if you do any carpentry work around the house, think long term. I prefer using poplar (not popular) wood (Home Depot) / not pine. Or if you can, Vinyl Trim. Another important install feature should be air-flow under the Shed.

 

[PimTac]

I think the spell check got you. I've never used poplar wood though for any building projects. Guess they are running out of real wood. Good idea on the corner trim.

 

[double vanos]

Soak any outdoor trim in Copper Green before installing. Wood rot and termites avoid it like the plague. Available at the big box stores.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

I don't want to One-up you, but I have this problem, but with large posts and beams holdling up the roof of my two- story pine Log Cabin. This was due to a "hidden" chimney leak in the attic that ran to a low spot that just happened to be the main post and beam holding my roof up. I wish I only had a bit trim to deal with I gave up on paint and now use decking stain - even on walls. It chalks when its done - no peeling. And There are solid stains sold that give a low gloss paint look. I'm not sure how long last your unconventional repair may last, this issue is water going behind the board and dripping at the bottom. It needs a way out. But give us and update and let us know in 5 years Here is a photo of me removing an inside log wall preparing to take the centre post out.

 

[doitmyself]

It's tough to tell by the pictures, but it looks like the bottom of the white trim was sealed/caulked, making a dam that would not allow any water that did manage to get in sit there and not drain out. The bottom of these joints should be open to allow water to drain....just like flashing is installed. If the trim you installed encloses the bottom (caulk), you might still have the same problem of trapping water that sneaks in where the white trim meets the red siding. Or, maybe I am clueless and your job will last decades, LOL. Nice job anyways.

 

[MParr]

Ground contact pressure treated pine, cedar or redwood is the only way to go in that situation.

 

[Vikas]

I have rotted deck staircase handle rail. I stopped at local box store. They don't sell pressure treated variant of handle rail. Is it possible to convert regular pine in to something which is suitable for outdoors? I don't see how staining would be sufficient for long term.

 

[PimTac]

Originally Posted by Vikas

I have rotted deck staircase handle rail. I stopped at local box store. They don't sell pressure treated variant of handle rail. Is it possible to convert regular pine in to something which is suitable for outdoors? I don't see how staining would be sufficient for long term.

How about metal?

 

[JTK]

Is that a big'ol snail under the corner of the shed in that first pic? Things must be a bit moist there. Your repair looks great. Should hold up longer, but like doitmyself mentioned, it could trap moisture as well. Maybe rot out the siding/structure behind it. Wood right at the ground level like that takes a beating.

 

[demarpaint]

In the future my suggestion [if you use wood] would be to make all the cuts, then pre-fit the trim but don't install it. Use a good exterior oil primer, and apply two coats to all surfaces, [front, back, top, bottom, and all sides] taking special care on the ends. Once the entire piece of trim dry and installed, do the necessary filling and caulk with a good exterior paintable caulking, then paint it with a good latex house paint. That should help extend the life of the trim considerably.

 

[MParr]

Cedar or Redwood. Then there is metal. Check with your local code enforcement officer, he might have an answer.

 

[Dave9]

You can go to extreme measures and higher expense, but the first thing to do starting with that (back when new) was make sure it is low moisture content and prime all sides of the wood.