So I just bought an E36 328i with 129k on the clock and I'm currently running an Auto-Rx treatment on it. A couple questions that I have are: After I finish the cleaning and rinsing phase, would it be wise to run a maint. dose along with Redline Oil? Another question I have is if it's even a good idea to run Redline? I've read mixed feelings about this oil on other forums about Redline being harmful to your O2 sensors and such.
Auto-Rx, Redline, and other nonsense.
- Thread starter AlpineM52
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WELCOME TO BITOG! With 129K on the clock you have to run two clean rinse cycles of A-Rx. Anything over 100K calls for two treatments, unless they made a revision to the directions. Lots of mixed reviews in the oil additive section about A-Rx, you might want to check them out! From my experience there are faster, cheaper, and better ways to clean an engine.
As far as the oil goes I'd use something from either Pennzoil or Mobil in that car.
As far as the oil goes I'd use something from either Pennzoil or Mobil in that car.
Originally Posted By: AlpineM52
So I just bought an E36 328i with 129k on the clock and I'm currently running an Auto-Rx treatment on it. A couple questions that I have are: After I finish the cleaning and rinsing phase, would it be wise to run a maint. dose along with Redline Oil? Another question I have is if it's even a good idea to run Redline? I've read mixed feelings about this oil on other forums about Redline being harmful to your O2 sensors and such.
Redline street oils do not harm 02 sensors.
So I just bought an E36 328i with 129k on the clock and I'm currently running an Auto-Rx treatment on it. A couple questions that I have are: After I finish the cleaning and rinsing phase, would it be wise to run a maint. dose along with Redline Oil? Another question I have is if it's even a good idea to run Redline? I've read mixed feelings about this oil on other forums about Redline being harmful to your O2 sensors and such.
Redline street oils do not harm 02 sensors.
Thanks demarpaint, I actually went with ARx because I had read around and saw that those other faster ways might seem a little dangerous for cleaning out an engine. I wasn't too comfortable with using something aggressive that might break off chunks and clog oil passages. I'm not exactly sure how clean or dirty this engine might be but I decided to do it the slow safe way. Thanks also DragRace, I just wanted to make sure before I started using it. I had heard about the ZDDP content of the oil being able to harm sensors but I'm guessing that would only apply to motors that burned excessive oil???
Originally Posted By: AlpineM52
Thanks demarpaint, I actually went with ARx because I had read around and saw that those other faster ways might seem a little dangerous for cleaning out an engine. I wasn't too comfortable with using something aggressive that might break off chunks and clog oil passages. I'm not exactly sure how clean or dirty this engine might be but I decided to do it the slow safe way. Thanks also DragRace, I just wanted to make sure before I started using it. I had heard about the ZDDP content of the oil being able to harm sensors but I'm guessing that would only apply to motors that burned excessive oil???
I'm not referring to a fast flush product, the cleaning process is still slow, safe, and no fear of chunks breaking off. See it through with the A-Rx, worse case is you add some MMO in for the rinse cycle.
Thanks demarpaint, I actually went with ARx because I had read around and saw that those other faster ways might seem a little dangerous for cleaning out an engine. I wasn't too comfortable with using something aggressive that might break off chunks and clog oil passages. I'm not exactly sure how clean or dirty this engine might be but I decided to do it the slow safe way. Thanks also DragRace, I just wanted to make sure before I started using it. I had heard about the ZDDP content of the oil being able to harm sensors but I'm guessing that would only apply to motors that burned excessive oil???
I'm not referring to a fast flush product, the cleaning process is still slow, safe, and no fear of chunks breaking off. See it through with the A-Rx, worse case is you add some MMO in for the rinse cycle.
I am telling you Pennzoil Platinum and Ultra really do clean well so if you are not satisfied with the ARx try one or the other. M1 0w40 would be a great choice too. Don't run RedLine or any other TRUE synthetic or Mobil 1 while using ARx.
You'll be fine with ARX to clean things up, and then M1 Euro Formula/PU Euro/German Castrol Syntec or a good stout HDEO like Chevron Delo to keep things clean afterwards. For some reason, German cars LOVE viscosity. I ran Delo 400 15W-40 in a few Mercedes I used to look after, and 10W-40/5W-40 in a few VWs I worked on.
You really should pull a valve cover to have a look see (more importantly to get us pictures). With no engine pictures to look at, BITOG members might have to read a newspaper!
gathermewool
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If you plan to use Redline, don't add anything to it. It doesn't need help.
Originally Posted By: gathermewool
If you plan to use Redline, don't add anything to it. It doesn't need help.
I second that. A few short OCIs of 3-5k should help clean things up nicely.
Now during the cleaning cycle... add all kinds of stuff in there (depending on how dirty it is)
If you plan to use Redline, don't add anything to it. It doesn't need help.
I second that. A few short OCIs of 3-5k should help clean things up nicely.
Now during the cleaning cycle... add all kinds of stuff in there (depending on how dirty it is)
Originally Posted By: Artem
Originally Posted By: gathermewool
If you plan to use Redline, don't add anything to it. It doesn't need help.
I second that. A few short OCIs of 3-5k should help clean things up nicely.
Now during the cleaning cycle... add all kinds of stuff in there (depending on how dirty it is)
Sound advice, I got the impression the OP wanted to do some cleaning first.
But then again it was late when I posted.
Originally Posted By: gathermewool
If you plan to use Redline, don't add anything to it. It doesn't need help.
I second that. A few short OCIs of 3-5k should help clean things up nicely.
Now during the cleaning cycle... add all kinds of stuff in there (depending on how dirty it is)
Sound advice, I got the impression the OP wanted to do some cleaning first.
Thanks for the quick replys everyone. But yeah demarpaint I'm already 700 miles into the cleaning cycle of the ARx. So it would be a good idea to run xW-40 oil? I I guess it makes sense now since my previous 328 consumed oil when i ran anything lower than xW-40...or would I be wrong in assuming that? The car runs great and all but i just wanna keep it that way and make sure I'm putting the best choice of oil in there. Its my daily driver and Its usually short trips but about half the time doing some "Sprited" driving lol.
Originally Posted By: AlpineM52
Thanks for the quick replys everyone. But yeah demarpaint I'm already 700 miles into the cleaning cycle of the ARx. So it would be a good idea to run xW-40 oil? I I guess it makes sense now since my previous 328 consumed oil when i ran anything lower than xW-40...or would I be wrong in assuming that? The car runs great and all but i just wanna keep it that way and make sure I'm putting the best choice of oil in there. Its my daily driver and Its usually short trips but about half the time doing some "Sprited" driving lol.
Before you can run anything 0W-40 you have to complete two clean rinse cycles of A-Rx, with "non-synthetic oil". A-Rx doesn't work well at all with Synthetic oil, unless they revised the directions again. Otherwise you wouldn't be following their directions, might not get results, and not be able to collect on their "money back guarantee". So before you try 0W40 oil make sure you're done with the A-Rx. Then go for M1 0W40 which from what I've read here is probably one of the very best oils Mobil offers. If the A-Rx doesn't work don't give up there are other products you can try before tearing into the engine.
Thanks for the quick replys everyone. But yeah demarpaint I'm already 700 miles into the cleaning cycle of the ARx. So it would be a good idea to run xW-40 oil? I I guess it makes sense now since my previous 328 consumed oil when i ran anything lower than xW-40...or would I be wrong in assuming that? The car runs great and all but i just wanna keep it that way and make sure I'm putting the best choice of oil in there. Its my daily driver and Its usually short trips but about half the time doing some "Sprited" driving lol.
Before you can run anything 0W-40 you have to complete two clean rinse cycles of A-Rx, with "non-synthetic oil". A-Rx doesn't work well at all with Synthetic oil, unless they revised the directions again. Otherwise you wouldn't be following their directions, might not get results, and not be able to collect on their "money back guarantee". So before you try 0W40 oil make sure you're done with the A-Rx. Then go for M1 0W40 which from what I've read here is probably one of the very best oils Mobil offers. If the A-Rx doesn't work don't give up there are other products you can try before tearing into the engine.
I would NOT bother running ARX or Red Line.
If you have just bought the vehicle, better to spend your money on PVC valve if required, spark plugs, ignition leads, transmission fluid/filter change,power steering fluid change, diff fluid change, fuel filter, air filter and change the radiator coolant. (Unless the trans, power steering and diff are fill for for life.
I would also run the Chevron Techron 5000 injector cleaner just to give the injectors a clean.
For the engine oil I would use an OEM approved group 3 syn oil (SN) rated oil. Change the oil filter every 1200 to 1500 miles to prevent it from clogging up when changing oil brands, as this tends to remove the old varnish layers and then later it will place its own coating. Then full oil and filter change at 3000 miles. Do one more OCI like this.
The above is just IMHO and observations from my time BITOG.
As you are already into the ARX cycle. Just finish this one and do what I said above.
If you have just bought the vehicle, better to spend your money on PVC valve if required, spark plugs, ignition leads, transmission fluid/filter change,power steering fluid change, diff fluid change, fuel filter, air filter and change the radiator coolant. (Unless the trans, power steering and diff are fill for for life.
I would also run the Chevron Techron 5000 injector cleaner just to give the injectors a clean.
For the engine oil I would use an OEM approved group 3 syn oil (SN) rated oil. Change the oil filter every 1200 to 1500 miles to prevent it from clogging up when changing oil brands, as this tends to remove the old varnish layers and then later it will place its own coating. Then full oil and filter change at 3000 miles. Do one more OCI like this.
The above is just IMHO and observations from my time BITOG.
As you are already into the ARX cycle. Just finish this one and do what I said above.
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I ordered AutoRX a few days ago after doing a lot of reading on their web site. Frank (the owner of AutoRX) recommends using Shell Rotella T (not T5 or T6) for the cleaning and rinse phase. The synthetics actually slow down the cleaning phase. He recommends a longer cleaning cycle if using a synthetic. The reasoning for using Rotella oil is because it will suspend the dissolved sludge and varnish, thus making both phases more effective. Besides, Rotella costs 17.99 a gallon here in Ohio. A lot cheaper than synthetic. The reason for doing 2 cleaning cycles goes back to the amount of crud accumulated with a high mileage engine (100,000 miles +). Also, removing a valve cover will positively show you what you're dealing with.
that is interesting, i recall ARx instructions from years ago were to use the cheapest dino oil for clean and rinse phase due to lower additives to avoid competition with ARx
+3 Redline needs nothing, i also recall reading here that Redline should not be used directly after ARx, but after that is fine
Valvoline conv seems to have less additives than PYB. You could run Valv clean and rinse and then PYB after. or Rotella
+3 Redline needs nothing, i also recall reading here that Redline should not be used directly after ARx, but after that is fine
Valvoline conv seems to have less additives than PYB. You could run Valv clean and rinse and then PYB after. or Rotella
I used Exxon Superflo for oi during cleaning, and the rinse phase.
I already have a new pcv here sitting in my room along with a bunch of other hoses dealing with the entire vacuum system, but thanks anyways virginoil any input is greatly appreciated. WoodenNickel, I was going to run rotella but I wasn't sure what kind to use, so I just ended up using regular yellow bottle Penzoil 10W-40. ProjUltraZ, when would it be safe to use Redline? After the clean phase? Or the one after that? What would happen if i used it right afterwards? This forum rocks btw!
AutoRX says to use dino for the rinse phase as well.
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