Auto-RX on Volvo

[cougfan]

So the 2002 Volvo S60 I bought 2 months ago now has 22,700 miles. I really think an Auto-RX treatment is in order. The previous (lease) owner only put 20,000 miles on it in 4 years and the oil change history is non-existent. I bought a supply of Mahle oil filters from IPD (helps to live 8 min away from them) and now I need a good conventional oil to run for cleaning and one for rinse. Or does the cleaning oil not matter? ( Iread that the rinse does and was wondering which oil is best for that anyway). I probally should get some to do maint. doses on a 2006 Toyota Sienna with 7,500 miles that had factory fill replaced at 5k with Valvoline full synthetic too,huh?

 

[Louie's gone fishing]

When I Auto-Rx'd my 96 850 Turbo, I used Delo 15w40. Got it at Costco for $37/6 Gal jugs in a case. I did two cycles and it all worked out great.

 

[ALS]

When I did my 97 960 I used Castrol GTX @ $1.99 quart for my cleaning and rinse phases.
I'm sorry but I don't do cheap oil in my Volvo's.
Learned that one with the 87 745T. 3000 mile OCI's from new with Pennzoil dealer bulk 10W30. I got a seized coked up Turbo at 247K and a cooked crank shaft bearing at 283K miles.
The new motor has lived it's first 58K plus miles on M1 and a maintenance dose of Auto-Rx.
I already have a 100K, 200K and a 300K mile badges. There should be no problem getting my 400K and 500K badges for this car.

 

[Hadrien]

Have you popped off the vavle cover to confirm your worst fears yet cougfan? This way you will also have a good measure on how well the Auto-Rx is working after the rinse phase.

As always take and post pics for us pic junkies.

 

[Volvohead]

Unless it's a T5 that you're going to drive like a maniac, any conventional will work fine at those intervals. If it really keeps you up at night, or you're planning a lot of WOT runs through Death Valley, use an HDEO. You must use a conventional for the rinse, but can get by on a blend or full-syn for the cleaning if need be. Conventional all the way through yields the best results in my experience.

Too bad that Manns have disappeared for the P2s; I considered it a better cartridge than the Mahle.

 

[Volvohead]

quote:

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Originally posted by Hadrien:
Have you popped off the vavle cover to confirm your worst fears yet cougfan? . . .

As always take and post pics for us pic junkies.

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The upper head assembly on the I-5 doesn't just "pop off" like a typical valve cover. It's a bit of work and unless there is a bona fide mechanical problem, it's best left untouched.

 

[Ken2]

You get a good look at the intake camshaft just looking down the oil fill.


Ken

 

[John Hilmer]

quote:

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Originally posted by cougfan:
No I haven't... Im not the most mechanically inclined person in the world (although more so than average)so even if it is something simple to do, if I have never done it before , I tend to be very reluctant. I will say that when I bought the car it had 21,200 miles and it just had it's oil changed at 21,100 with a shell conventional 5w30. At 22,300 I decided to replace it (mainly out of curiosity) and it was very dark and the filter was filthy. I had a very tough time removing the filter housing (had to create my own tool after stripping the IPD filter wrench because it was stuck so good) and the filter was so black that I wonder when the last time it was changed. I put in Pennzoil Platinum 10-30 and it still looks like new on the dipstick. No visible sludge or residue ever on the dipstik or under the cap. I am guessing that this car at best went factory (7,500) OCI with conventional and at worst...well, let's not think about that.

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Regarding the "supposed oil change just before you aquired this one I've got to say that I'm skeptical about that.

Given that you report heavy soil in the filter and the difficulty in removing the filter I'm suspicious that you were lied to. OK, it's part of my nature to be skeptical, but still...

I think that your plan to A-RX it is a good one, it sure can't hurt anything as far as I can see.

I did my Toyota ECHO at 31K and got stuff out, and it had been a lease car also.

I can't help with what oil to use as I don't know anything about Volvo engines, but conventional is prefered for both clean and rinse. Also running it to get it warmed up and giving it a bit extra foot feed to get it wound up a bit helps.

Best Regards,

John

 

[cougfan]

I had just read somewhere (well on BITOG) that you sould use a conventional oil with minimal add packs or something to that effect. Was just curious if any one was better than the other. Heck, Valvoline is like $1.50 a qt localy with a free Cars toy for my kid in the case...good as reason as any

 

[cougfan]

No I haven't... Im not the most mechanically inclined person in the world (although more so than average)so even if it is something simple to do, if I have never done it before , I tend to be very reluctant. I will say that when I bought the car it had 21,200 miles and it just had it's oil changed at 21,100 with a shell conventional 5w30. At 22,300 I decided to replace it (mainly out of curiosity) and it was very dark and the filter was filthy. I had a very tough time removing the filter housing (had to create my own tool after stripping the IPD filter wrench because it was stuck so good) and the filter was so black that I wonder when the last time it was changed. I put in Pennzoil Platinum 10-30 and it still looks like new on the dipstick. No visible sludge or residue ever on the dipstik or under the cap. I am guessing that this car at best went factory (7,500) OCI with dino and at worst...well, let's not think about that.

 

[Brandon Gatz]

ARX worked wonders on my 2000 Volvo. Most noticeable during the 3rd consecutive treatment when it smoked violently for 6 days, after which it was reborn.