I replaced the torn CV boots on my '95 Suzuki LT-4WD a couple years ago; it lasted a couple months and maybe 10 miles before they split. Ebay (Amazon?) specials so I'm guessing craptastic rubber, but all the same: is this a crazy driveline angle? Seems like this will fail no matter what.
ATV CV boot and reboot
- Thread starter supton
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Yes, that angle is pretty bad, I assume this is lifted?
Yes that is extreme. The CV should be as close to neutral (straight) as possible for longest boot and joint life. As it is now that plunge joint is all the way out.
Don't think so. Came like that, but I'm at least the 3rd owner. I think the springs can be adjusted, so as to adjust ride height. I could try to crank down? Not like it has a lot of ground clearance, but this lives a sedate life so maybe doable, at least on the front end, when the plow isn't attached.
Everything looked stock when I got it. I did have to replace the tires, the old ones were toast, and were the crappy originals from what I could tell. So I believe it to be bone stock for suspension parts.
FWIW it's gone like 30 miles after 2 years. That's a lot more rotations than a car (shorter tires) but it's hardly a high usage application.
That coil over looks like it's cranked all the way up.
I just went out and looked at my '21 Brute Force 750 and wife's Rancher and neither have angles even remotely close to that.
I have seen some Can-Am with pretty steep angles, but again, not that steep.
While OEM is typically the best way to go, we were at our 2 week hiatus up in Norther NH last year and my wife toasted a boot and joint. I order a Niche Industries shaft from Rocky Mountain or one of the other online retailers and had it shipped to the camp ground. Fit and finish was excellent and it's held up well. Just an option if you have trouble finding a new shaft if that one is damaged.
I just went out and looked at my '21 Brute Force 750 and wife's Rancher and neither have angles even remotely close to that.
I have seen some Can-Am with pretty steep angles, but again, not that steep.
While OEM is typically the best way to go, we were at our 2 week hiatus up in Norther NH last year and my wife toasted a boot and joint. I order a Niche Industries shaft from Rocky Mountain or one of the other online retailers and had it shipped to the camp ground. Fit and finish was excellent and it's held up well. Just an option if you have trouble finding a new shaft if that one is damaged.
We go on 120 mile/day rides up North. The boots should last thousands of miles.
I was pretty sure it should last a lot longer!
Oh: I think I know what happened. Didn't dawn on me until just now.
This thing has a plow on it. My guess: the plow attaches to a plate under the machine, which has "ears" on it that hold some cleavis pins so that the plow can pivot under the center of the ATV. Those ears hang down quite a bit. And are easy to drag on any rocks. So to "fix" the problem whoever put the plow on cranked everything to 11 for height. Which puts those joints at a bad angle.
That would do it.
They could've also cranked it up so that the machine won't sag as much with the plow on and lifted up.
Cv angle like that is typical for atv's.
Many of the aftermarket boots are neoprene or another type of inexpensive rubber.
The originals are typically ABS plastic and are much more durable.
When you hunt for a replacement, pay attention to what material it is!
Many of the aftermarket boots are neoprene or another type of inexpensive rubber.
The originals are typically ABS plastic and are much more durable.
When you hunt for a replacement, pay attention to what material it is!
I’m not sure that adjusting to max preload would cause such an accelerated wear on those cv boots. I think if that was the case there would be such a high mfg recall with this design flaw and a lot of pissed off customers with torn boots. I have my front shocks adjusted to max preload because of my plow too to minimize squat. If you look at the ramp profile, it’s not much between max and min or maybe around 1/2” for stock shocks. In my opinion, I would agree more with your original statement that potentially cheaper aftermarket components failed. A lot of severe cv axle angles are usually caused by lift kits or upgrading from 12” to 14” rims or mounting +3 to +4 diameter tires which I only went from 25” oem to 27” so I’m teetering on requiring suspension mods to minimize severe axle angles.
Also take a picture where there’s a rider on board. It may give a better visual on the ATV’s true stance.
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