Been a busy month. I finally got around to changing the ATF at 79K. I decided Hyundai's method was too much hassle, so I did it my way (I didn't bother verifying the level with the check plug, *which isn't technically the right way* but I didn't want to figure out how to get access to a lift or hassle with a jack and stands to properly verify the level). So for my 1000th post, I figured I'd do a how-to for those who may be intimidated. I'm not advising anyone to not verify the fluid level properly. I just used common sense and decided to take the risk, as I had no problems prior. This *should* apply to 2011-2016 models with the 6-speed auto. You'll need 4 quarts of fluid (3.9 to be exact in my case). Hyundai specs SP-IV in the owner's manual. SP4-M is the newer spec fluid, and supersedes SP-IV, so I searched for SP4-M. Due to the price, I ended up using "KIA Type 4 (M)" trans fluid. It's literally the exact same fluid based on info I found on this site, just much cheaper. My KIA dealer discounted it to $12.50/qt (from $13.xx/qt) versus $18+/qt for Hyundai SP4-M, which was also cheaper than anywhere online. FWIW, I expected the fluid to be pretty bad at 79K, assuming it's the factory fill. I was pleasantly surprised. No burnt smell. It was slightly dark when draining, but when I took a shop towel and dabbed a few drops on it, it was actually very light. Looked pretty good. I guess SP-IV is pretty good stuff. I started by getting the car up on my Rhino ramps. Make sure the car is completely at ambient temperature to ensure there isn't a discrepancy with the volume of fluid being measured. Take the air filter & box out, and disconnect any attached hoses. Now you can see the top of the transmission. Then remove the skid plate underneath. There should be 4 bolts, and several philips screw-rivets. These won't just unscrew normally. You have to unscrew them 3-6 turns, then pull straight down/out. If you've changed the oil before, you already know this. Before draining the trans fluid, I made sure the fill plug on top could be removed. Once it was removed it stayed out until finished, and I removed the check plug on the front side. It drooled just a tiny bit and stopped quickly, so I *assumed* fluid was reaching it prior to going on the ramps, giving me the impression the level was correct. I replaced it prior to draining. Now it's finally time to drain. If you're draining it my way, it is critically important to measure every drop that comes out. On my ramps, it was the perfect height to slide a clean empty Valvoline 5 quart jug with a wide mouth (easy pour) under it. I checked the level after 1 hour, marked it, then left it overnight. To my surprise, the level didn't change at all, so 1 hour is all that is needed. Replace the drain plug *after* cleaning all the sludge off of the magnet. I had to fish my plug out of the 5 quart jug , small price to pay to ensure I measured every drop. Once the drain plug is back on, go topside. This I feel is the most important part. Thanks to user dubber09 for this tip . There are 2 hoses on the right/driver's side of the transmission, 1 marked with red paint, 1 marked with yellow. Disconnect the red hose. This allows the trans fluid to pour much faster into the transmission, and makes zero mess. Once the hose is removed, pour 1 quart in using a long funnel. As long as you don't aggressively pour, it will be perfectly fine. Basically pour at a rate that doesn't;t gurgle out of the bottle. No need to go painstakingly slow like you would without removing the hose. Once that quart is empty use that quart to measure the old fluid. This way there's no discrepancy in the measurement. I found there was almost a half quart difference between what the Valvoline 5 quart bottle measured and what the KIA 1 quart bottle measured. I measured 3.9 qts by the KIA quart. 1 quart = 946mL. Once measured, pour in the remainder needed. Once you've added the correct amount, put the fill plug back on, reconnect the red hose, put all of the air filter parts back on, and re-install the skid plate. Done. It was MUCH easier than I thought it would be (mostly thanks to disconnecting the red hose). Just be sure to start it, and slowly shift between P-R-N-D-N-R-P once before driving to allow the fluid to get where it needs to be. About a week after I changed the fluid, I drove it 1240 miles round trip, and it drove perfectly. I'll definitely DIY again, probably every 30-50K. Hopefully this helps someone like me who was searching the net debating whether to do it or not. $50-70 and two hours of time sure beats $200+ (and probably still 2 hours of time) at the stealership to do a "flush" (which Hyundai supposedly doesn't do), which still leaves behind the crud on the magnet, and potentially introduces an improper fluid into your transmission (one dealer said they only carry "O'Reilly Premium ATF", and several others only use BG). Well worth it IMO.