Gary you are on the money. That's the beauty of ARX. Contolled methodical cleaning is safe for cleaning and rinsing on the fly.
ARX for oil burning 98 Honda Prelude
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Originally Posted By: uconn1150
I'd drain out the high mileage and just use Wallyworld ST.
Im not using the high mileage. I switched to the cheap pep boys brand, proline I think, straight dino 10w-40 for the clean and rinse phase.
I'd drain out the high mileage and just use Wallyworld ST.
Im not using the high mileage. I switched to the cheap pep boys brand, proline I think, straight dino 10w-40 for the clean and rinse phase.
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Originally Posted By: prelude2perfect
Originally Posted By: uconn1150
I'd drain out the high mileage and just use Wallyworld ST.
Im not using the high mileage. I switched to the cheap pep boys brand, proline I think, straight dino 10w-40 for the clean and rinse phase.
oops, misread. I would then keep topping off with any dino 10w-30. A seal may have gotten clean and is letting oil go right through. The dino will help to "seal up" the seal. Patience--unless the seal is shot--for a few more 1000 miles.
Originally Posted By: uconn1150
I'd drain out the high mileage and just use Wallyworld ST.
Im not using the high mileage. I switched to the cheap pep boys brand, proline I think, straight dino 10w-40 for the clean and rinse phase.
oops, misread. I would then keep topping off with any dino 10w-30. A seal may have gotten clean and is letting oil go right through. The dino will help to "seal up" the seal. Patience--unless the seal is shot--for a few more 1000 miles.
ok, well whats everyone think on this one, should I either, A) Just keep topping off with dino oil and keep up with oil changes every 3k B)Finish the rinse cycle and start another clean cycle or C)Switch back to Castrol GTX 10w-40 High mileage?
Im not informed when it comes to this sort of thing. From what Ive read it seems like the dino oil actually cleans better which I dont really understand. Any help with this would be greatly appreciated
Im not informed when it comes to this sort of thing. From what Ive read it seems like the dino oil actually cleans better which I dont really understand. Any help with this would be greatly appreciated
I would finish up the rinse cycle, dumpt the oil change filter and rebatch with cleaning application #2.
I would just like to say I have been following this thread and find it very interesting. Please keep posting, I'm sure many of us want to know how things work out.
Too bad you did not do a compression test at the beginning!
When you say you drive the car hard, I would not think it's necessary to 'Red line' it, and I hope you give the engine good time too warm up before 'hard driving'
I would assume an occasional One hour, 60 mph cruise would be adequate? we don't want you getting tickets!
Too bad you did not do a compression test at the beginning!
When you say you drive the car hard, I would not think it's necessary to 'Red line' it, and I hope you give the engine good time too warm up before 'hard driving'
I would assume an occasional One hour, 60 mph cruise would be adequate? we don't want you getting tickets!
Actually, I had the previous owner do a compression and leak down test right before I bought the car. Its on my personal computer so Ill post it later. The numbers werent too bad though from what I saw.
I only redline the car occasionally and most of the miles have been from highway trips going about 75-90 mph.
So why do you think I should switch from 10w-30 over 10w-40? Im sure I would burn even more oil with that in there
Oh and yes, I allow the car to properly warm up before I do any spirited driving. I actually allow it to warm up before I even go above 2 and a half k rpms
I only redline the car occasionally and most of the miles have been from highway trips going about 75-90 mph.
So why do you think I should switch from 10w-30 over 10w-40? Im sure I would burn even more oil with that in there
Oh and yes, I allow the car to properly warm up before I do any spirited driving. I actually allow it to warm up before I even go above 2 and a half k rpms
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The idea of using a thinner oil is that during the A-Rx cycles it will be easier for the oil/A-Rx to get into the nooks and crannies to clean and rinse better. Yes you may burn a bit more, but when you're done, you will have better results. Have you pulled your plugs to see what kind of condition they are in? I'm just curious if you are burning all of that oil, or leaking a bit, or even a combo.
Keep us updated!
Keep us updated!
I thought the arx doesnt mix with the oil. I was under the inpression the oil just delivers it. I have yet to pull the plugs, but there are no external leaks anywhere. All new seals/gaskets on engine (minus rings/valve seals/head gasket)
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Well, sure it mixes with it ..the stuff is the carrier. It doesn't alter the chemistry of the oil. The thinner oil will probably be slung to more surface areas (valve cover and such). That's for your visual pleasure. The big deal is the rings, liberated stuck stuff (HLA's and whatnot), restored flow to branches of the lube system that have decayed ..etc..etc.
Originally Posted By: Gary Allan
Well, sure it mixes with it ..the stuff is the carrier. It doesn't alter the chemistry of the oil. The thinner oil will probably be slung to more surface areas (valve cover and such). That's for your visual pleasure. The big deal is the rings, liberated stuck stuff (HLA's and whatnot), restored flow to branches of the lube system that have decayed ..etc..etc.
so would you recommend I go with the 10w-30 now?
Well, sure it mixes with it ..the stuff is the carrier. It doesn't alter the chemistry of the oil. The thinner oil will probably be slung to more surface areas (valve cover and such). That's for your visual pleasure. The big deal is the rings, liberated stuck stuff (HLA's and whatnot), restored flow to branches of the lube system that have decayed ..etc..etc.
so would you recommend I go with the 10w-30 now?
Well Im at 3150 miles into the rinse cycle. Im going to change it tommorrow and start another clean cycle. Im going to swith to Super Tech 10w-30 instead of the proline 10w-40 I used previously
would using ARX increase his oil leak as it clean up the gunk that may be holding certain things together or blocking a existing non-active leak.
just asking as i know mobil 1 5w20 does that to oil engine as it clean it up too good and the engine starts to leak.
just asking as i know mobil 1 5w20 does that to oil engine as it clean it up too good and the engine starts to leak.
Originally Posted By: prelude2perfect
Well Im at 3150 miles into the rinse cycle. Im going to change it tommorrow and start another clean cycle. Im going to swith to Super Tech 10w-30 instead of the proline 10w-40 I used previously
well as a ex honda tech i would say it is time for a rebuild on the lude. they need a owner that cares and uses good oil and changes it every 3-4k. somthing about the cylinder liners on the h22's just wears bad near the top of the cylinder. they are not the same as the b-series. I love the cars but they are a pain to work on. other than that they are great cars for their time.
I picked up a 93 in 2000 for 600 bucks and it needed a rebuild also. after another 1200 she lasted until i traded it in in 02 for a new cavalier. i miss that car!
Well Im at 3150 miles into the rinse cycle. Im going to change it tommorrow and start another clean cycle. Im going to swith to Super Tech 10w-30 instead of the proline 10w-40 I used previously
well as a ex honda tech i would say it is time for a rebuild on the lude. they need a owner that cares and uses good oil and changes it every 3-4k. somthing about the cylinder liners on the h22's just wears bad near the top of the cylinder. they are not the same as the b-series. I love the cars but they are a pain to work on. other than that they are great cars for their time.
I picked up a 93 in 2000 for 600 bucks and it needed a rebuild also. after another 1200 she lasted until i traded it in in 02 for a new cavalier. i miss that car!
The most definitive test ever done by anyone (this was done by Dyson Oil Analysis) can be found on side board of http://www.auto-rx.com
home page by clicking on "Cycle-Rx"
Test 1- Is about Auto-Rx and Wet Cluch PERFORMANCE/
TEST 2- IS A BOUT A SPOTLESS ENGINE INIDE AND OUT INCLUDING TOLEREANCES.
There is no more definitive test on the benefits & chemistry,s of Auto-Rx none.
home page by clicking on "Cycle-Rx"
Test 1- Is about Auto-Rx and Wet Cluch PERFORMANCE/
TEST 2- IS A BOUT A SPOTLESS ENGINE INIDE AND OUT INCLUDING TOLEREANCES.
There is no more definitive test on the benefits & chemistry,s of Auto-Rx none.
Well I started a new clean phase on Sat. Its been about 200 miles with about 150 of that being highway at about 80mph and 4k rpms for most of it and I already burned one quart. I think Im seeing the effect of that thinner oil already
New update: I changed the oil and filter about 500 miles to start the second rinse phase. Still no decrease in oil consumption with the mixed city driving Ive been doing lately. Once i get done with this rinse phase I will switch back to the high mileage synthetic I was using previously and getting less oil consumption with. Im guessing the oil consumption is mechanical and cannot be helped with this arx
must be the piston rings or valve seals. oh well, it was worth a shot and probably cleaned up a lot of [censored] that was built up in there anyway.
Prelude,
I'm sorry to hear that AutoRx has not helped slow your consumption.
As i've said earlier i also have an old honda engine that burns oil (as it did before AutoRx). Instead of rebuilding our engines some of us just use thicker oil. In the summer i use abut 3 20w50 & 1 1040 in mine. You can minimize the effect of thick oil by letting it warm for a little bit before driving off. And thick oil in North Carolina is less of a problem than thick oil in Massachusetts -- as you can imagine. It's especially not a problem in June.
Good luck to you.
I'm sorry to hear that AutoRx has not helped slow your consumption.
As i've said earlier i also have an old honda engine that burns oil (as it did before AutoRx). Instead of rebuilding our engines some of us just use thicker oil. In the summer i use abut 3 20w50 & 1 1040 in mine. You can minimize the effect of thick oil by letting it warm for a little bit before driving off. And thick oil in North Carolina is less of a problem than thick oil in Massachusetts -- as you can imagine. It's especially not a problem in June.
Good luck to you.
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