Arizona humidity effect maintenance on toys?

Joined
May 21, 2021
Messages
5
I have variations of a question that I imagine is asked relatively common on here. They are as follows:

1. From my understanding, you need to change oil yearly, even when you don't run the engines, because humidity creeps into the oil through time. Is that correct?

2. Does this still apply even in states like Arizona where humidity is super low. I can't imagine there is nearly the same rate of humidity accumulation in FL as AZ for example. Or am I misunderstanding the process?

I imagine the "do I really need to change it" question would be an easier answer for standard commuter cars. However, the only engines that I run into the "not used enough" problem is with my "toys". I'm not sure if their engines are considered higher risk. Anyways what do you guys think of the following situation, change or not, considering the place they were stored (AZ).

3. Dirt Bikes. I use Rotella T4 15w-40 for them and they have ran maybe 30 miles or so in the last year.

4. Maverick X3 Turbo . I use the Can Am approved oil. When it is ran , it is almost always for atleast 30+ minutes, so it's not super short trips. It is recommended to change the oil every 2k miles, or 100hr run time or 1x a year. It has been a year, 200 miles and 14hr run time.

5. 2007 Malibu 23lsv boat (350 Monsoon). It is recommended to change the oil yearly or every 50 hours run time. It has been 1 year and 18 hours. I use the Rotella T4 in here as well. The one thing that makes this one different than the others is it is stored by the lake (parking lot a few hundred feet from the lake). So even though it is in Phoenix, I'm not sure if the proximity to water and the fact that it gets run on water increases the humidity that makes it into the oil.

What do you guys think?
 
Where did you get that understanding that oil needed to be changed every year no matter what?
I'm not saying it's right, but literally every automotive forum, magazine and many maintenance manuals. Atleast according to my memory, which may be faulty!

Edit: Maybe I should have been more clear. I'm not saying that you actually need to. I am saying that many places recommend every year because of the humidity thing and CYA.
 
The reason they say that is because they don’t know what your operation is during the year. A bunch of short tripping especially in cold weather is a problem but fewer longer trips are not. Oil does not magically degrade by itself just sitting in the sump, it needs the products of combustion to do that.
 
The reason they say that is because they don’t know what your operation is during the year. A bunch of short tripping especially in cold weather is a problem but fewer longer trips are not. Oil does not magically degrade by itself just sitting in the sump, it needs the products of combustion to do that.

OK, I understand what you are saying but just want to clarify.

In Arizona, where they never run in COLD temperatures and almost never run for less than 20 minutes....my dirt bikes & side by side (Canam Maverick), I can confidently change them when approaching the hour/mile marks and ignore the "time from last change" standard?

What about a boat? It's never really run in cold weather, because again, we don't have cold weather here. but after being fully warmed up( running for 10min to get out of dock area), it is common for it to only run for 5 minutes at a time. Is that considered short tripping?

Lastly, what I am reading from you is that the humidity comes only from the combustion process. I may be showing my ignorance here, but I thought that part of the humidity problem was pulled from the air itself, the same reason you are supposed to change break fluid every 2 years (and there is no combustion there).

I appreciate you sharing your knowledge/experience.

THanks
 
For engines with open crankcase vents, ambient humidity could be an issue, especially if fuels and lubes that had a lot of sulphur; both those conditions are fairly rare these days.

I've run plenty of oil loads for 2-3 years, and the UOAs have shown no issues whatsoever. The " ... or annually ..." oil change mantra is a hedge by the OEM against the unknowns of how any one particular engine is used and stored. It's just an extension of their "every X months or Y miles". OCIs during warranty actually protect the OEM farm more than you. It's incredibly easy for them to change your oil, when they don't pay for it, and it benefits them (by reducing their risks) with shorter OCIs. The max OFCI I've been willing to run is 5 years, but those were low miles and well warmed before put away.
 
Do these liberal time periods (up to 5 years) apply to dino oils like Rotella t4 as well, or only synthetic?
 
The real problem I see here is that you don't play with your toys enough. :)
I agree. 3 years ago I was going on the baot every weekend and dirt biking every few weeks. Then I had a child and that got wrapped up real quick. Then I had a second one. Now I'm loving a life of indentured servitude, lol, till they are old enough to enjoy the toys with us. Maybe one or two more years!
 
I agree. 3 years ago I was going on the baot every weekend and dirt biking every few weeks. Then I had a child and that got wrapped up real quick. Then I had a second one. Now I'm loving a life of indentured servitude, lol, till they are old enough to enjoy the toys with us. Maybe one or two more years!
Ha! The indentured servitude never stops :)
 
Do these liberal time periods (up to 5 years) apply to dino oils like Rotella t4 as well, or only synthetic?
Yes, no matter conventional or synthetic, most likely your car doesn't have an open crankcase vent to allow air in as easily. You are free to keep it in the engine for 5 years for both.
 
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