Are we beating the which oil should i use to death?

I’ve been riding and driving for over 40 years. I have always used a good quality name brand oil and ran the manufactor recommended viscosity for that particular vehicle. I have never had an oil related failure with any vehicle because i change it when the manufactor says to. Synthetic, non-synthetic, motorcycle only oil, which do i choose? The point i’m trying to make is in my opinion as long as you use the right viscosity and choose a good quality oil and change at the recommended intervals along with a quality filter there should be no debate. I think this topic gets beaten to death for really no reason.
It's BITOG what else are we going to do?
 
First thing they should reference before BITOG is the Owner's Manual. 😄
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Agreed, with that said, is there any owners manual that specifically calls out one oil weight (5w40, 10w40, 20w50, etc) and one weight only? I haven't ever seen one with a mass produced vehicle.
 
Agreed, with that said, is there any owners manual that specifically calls out one oil weight (5w40, 10w40, 20w50, etc) and one weight only? I haven't ever seen one with a mass produced vehicle.
I've never seen only one viscosity called out in a motircycle owner's or shop manual. Maybe when CAFE gets its hooks in motorcycles there will be only one recommended viscosity called out.
 
I've never seen only one viscosity called out in a motircycle owner's or shop manual. Maybe when CAFE gets its hooks in motorcycles there will be only one recommended viscosity called out.
Both of my motorcycles' owners manual call out 10W-30. No other choices are offered. No fine print anywhere about climate, city or highway driving. Both cycles are water cooled, so the engine operating temperature should be fairly stable no matter what the outside temperature is. Also, Honda recommends 8,000 mile oil and filter change intervals on the recommended 10W-30.
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From page 110...
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The service manuals for both bikes (which most owners do not purchase) call out both 10W-30 and 10W-40 as acceptable. No other options.
 
First thing they should reference before BITOG is the Owner's Manual. 😄
I have a box full of owners Chevrolet manuals from the 60's, lots of good information on how to actually maintain the vehicle. The one for my 2021 Silverado and my 2015 Cruze are at least 4 times thicker and only tell me to "see your dealer" since the issue is complex.
 
The service manuals for both bikes (which most owners do not purchase) call out both 10W-30 and 10W-40 as acceptable. No other options.
What bikes?, Goldwing possibly since Honda might have a different viewpoint on that engine, like more leaning towards a small car engine that isn't stressed much in its application. They must be practicing for CAFE to only show the thinner oil option only in the OM. :confused:;)
 
Since we are having so much fun heres a question. Who has had a major engine failure if you’ve changed your oil regularly and run the correct weight and a good brand name oil?
 
Since we are having so much fun heres a question. Who has had a major engine failure if you’ve changed your oil regularly and run the correct weight and a good brand name oil?
In my 55 years of mostly riding and some racing I've only noted oil
starvation as the major cause of engine failure and it had nothing due
to OCI, Grade or Brand... like when the owner failed to keep enough
oil in the pan or the owner tossed their race bike on its side and oil
pick up sucked air... I gather owners are not plagued with engine
failures even if they don't remember to change their oil or pick the
correct weight or select a major brand... it seems to me as long as
the oil flows the engine lives easily 100K or 200K miles...
 
What bikes?, Goldwing possibly since Honda might have a different viewpoint on that engine, like more leaning towards a small car engine that isn't stressed much in its application. They must be practicing for CAFE to only show the thinner oil option only in the OM. :confused:;)
Bikes are 2012 ST1300 and 2015 NC700X. Honda switched many of their bikes to 10W-30 about 10 years or so ago. Bikes that previously had other grades listed in their manuals in prior years were switched to only 10W-30 (no changes to the bikes, just the specs). The 2008 owners manual for the ST1300 calls out only 10W-30 in the text, but also has a temperature chart showing both 10W-30 and 10W-40 for all temperature ranges. This chart is removed from the 2012 owners manual.
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With that said, my ST1300 has been fed a steady diet of 10W-40, since it is available everywhere. My NC has had both, currently running 10W-30 because I caught a sale on amazon. 10W-30 motorcycle oil is usually harder to find than 10W-40 and the choices are limited.
 
I can tell you my 1988 FLHS has seen a whole lot of different oils in it's lifetime so far
and it has 216,647 miles on it as of today :)
 
Bikes are 2012 ST1300 and 2015 NC700X. Honda switched many of their bikes to 10W-30 about 10 years or so ago. ...
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With that said, my ST1300 has been fed a steady diet of 10W-40, since it is available everywhere. My NC has had both, currently running 10W-30 because I caught a sale on amazon. 10W-30 motorcycle oil is usually harder to find than 10W-40 and the choices are limited.
If one lives in a hot climate it certainly can not hurt to go up one grade and only makes sense to do so.
Engine wont blow up if you dont do it but I think just common sense to go up a grade.

Engine coolant temperature does not perfectly correlate with oil temperature, the coolant is temperature controlled not the oil and in a hot climate it will run hotter. In fact in a hot climate even the engine and coolant will run hotter but the oil more so.
None of these 10w oils even make sense if you dont ride in temps below 50 degrees and many of us in the South do not.
The chart above says good for -10 F well ... not many riders who ride in -10F .... Ill be happy with +40 F :eek:) and I dont ride until 60+ F and for the a solid 3 months will be daytime highs 90 to 100+ but then again, my bike calls for 50, my previous Yami Vstar 1300 called for 10/40 and I used 20/50 summertime.
 
Only at BITOG can someone post about a topic that is discussed "too often" and then that same topic is discussed yet again.
Ever get one of those “do not reply to all” emails whilst they reply to all ?
(I bet our company president kept the list)
 
my experience on using different grade & brand of oil in cars & bikes shows that there are instances that there are notieable if not significant improvements or deterioration in engine/ gearbox performance. The first significant one was to switch from mineral to mobil FS back in early 1980's!!

I believe most if not all modern oil give a good basic lubrication performance so that wear/ breakdowns are well under control unless you hit extrem high mileage.
My golf GTI 16V mk2 had a high reving engine which I constantly fully used, was on a diet of mobil FS. Did not burn any oil, only had regular maintenance. was never taken apart ove the 11 years & 220 kmiles I owned it.

Unfortunately brands/ medels/ formulation change over time & I need to keep on the top of that so places like here are excellent to ask questions or find out about other users experiences
So I don't think the subject of "which oil" will ever go away. In fact it will become common even with EV vehicles😲
 
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