approaching 120k miles, what maint. should i do?

[mikeinaustin]

2002 v8 tundra.

as i am fast approaching 120K miles, i was wondering what you guys recommend as wear replacement items. specifically, is it time to replace the upper/lower radiator hoses? How about the thermostat? [all originals] every 30k miles i do a coolant flush (which will be at 120K), so i am asking the above since they come naturally once the radiator is drained.

the current serpentine belt has approx 60k miles on it, but the tensioner is the original, any need to replace the tensioner at 120k on this vehicle?

fyi, the timing belt/stuff was all done at 90k, so i am safe there.

fyi2, as part of my every 30k maintenance, i have already replaced the gear lube on the rear differential, drained and re-filled the pan on the transmission, cleaned and re-greased the rear drums, flushed all the brake fluid and replaced with new.

 

[wiswind]

PCV valve (OEM), Power steering fluid, a good shakedown of the front end (alignment), a vehicle "safety check".

 

[Drew99GT]

I'd probably do the thermostat. I'd check the hoses, especially the upper hose. From my experience, Toyota hoses are indestructible. Check the tension on the serp belt. If it's still tensioned good and snug, the tensioner is fine.

I'd for sure do spark plugs and wires (cap and rotor if it has them), along with the fuel filter.

At the next timing belt change, have them inspect and adjust if necessary the valves.

I'd be checking the battery as well. Batteries don't last long in excessive heat like Austin gets!

 

[Junior]

I would remove the belt and check all the idler pulleys and accessory drive pulleys to check for looseness. I waited until 150K to replace the idlers and tensioner.

 

[AdRock]

One the belt tensioner. Pull the belt off and move the tensioner back and forth. It should spring back quickly & freely and have a smooth feel when doing so. If it doesn't then it's on it's way out.

- Check all the coolant hoses for dryness. Squeeze them and see if you feel any sort of cracking from the inside.
- check all rubber and plastic hoses for drying and cracking
- Replace the thermostat.
- look into the radiator to see if there is any calcium build up or anything else. Have tanked if needed.
- backflush the heater core
- Pull out and clean off the oil press. sending unit and the same for the temp sending unit.
- clean the throttle body
- check battery terminals and all grounds for corrosion
- use a jack and lift up the engine a little to stretch the motor mounts a tad and check for drying out or cracking. Same for the trans mount.
- check the u-joints to see if there is any play in them.
- lift up the front end and check for play in the ball joint or the steering components.
- flush the power sterring fluid
- check the rubber rag joint on the steering shaft.
- if the truck had a steering rack check the bushings
- if possible repack the front wheel bearings. replace them if there's any scarring.
- check the rubber bodymounts between the cab and the framerail for any cracking or deterioration.
- put a can of Chemtool in the gas tank with about 1/2 tank of gas and run till almost empty. fill it back up to full and run down to 1/2 tank left. then replace the fuel filter.
- pcv valve
- air filter
- check all rubber brake and fuel lines for drieness or cracking.
- use a long screwdriver, or something long & solid to listen to all the bearings of the items run by the serpentine belt.
- stop by an autozone and have the battery, charging & starting system check (they'll do this for free)


I'm sure I'm leaving out something but I'm half asleep right now.