Apparently either SKF doesn't make their Bearings as good as they used to or RockAuto sold me a counterfeit.

In October, I replaced a bad left front wheel bearing with an SKF unit bought from Rock Auto. The car is a 2008 Subaru Outback EJ25 and auto trans. In early March, the recently replaced wheel bearing had about 6K miles on it and it started growling pretty bad. I bought another SKF bearing from Rock and did a warranty return. I had no problem getting a refund, but I am wondering if I received a counterfeit or just got a bad bearing. The right front wheel bearing was replaced about two weeks after the LF wheel bearing was replaced in October. I hope that one lasts a lot longer. I have been through about 6 front wheel bearings on this same Outback in the last four years. The next wheel bearing that goes bad is going to be replaced by a wheel bearing purchased at a Subaru dealer with an OEM part. I am getting tired of doing this job so frequently. I use the Subaru factory service manual and torque the four mounting bolts to the 48lb/ft spec and the axle nut to 162 lb/ft spec.

In all fairness, I found that I forgot to torque the axle nut properly on the LF position. I found the nut only lightly seated. Not properly torqued. Oh, and I don't use power tools or impact tools.

Trav, do you still have a 2008 Outback? Last time I talked to you, you were going to overhaul an 08 Outback engine because you bought it with a bad engine that had run out of oil, I think? I saw the bulletin that you posted about the backing plates going bad. I replaced the left front backing plate with a Subaru OEM part when I changed the bearing in early March.
 
Anyone purchase schaeffler wheel hub and bearings from RockAuto? Anyone get fake schaeffler’s?
 
Anyone purchase schaeffler wheel hub and bearings from RockAuto? Anyone get fake schaeffler’s?
I suppose you can a fake anything but I have not heard about anything with Schaeffler (INA, FAG)

In October, I replaced a bad left front wheel bearing with an SKF unit bought from Rock Auto. The car is a 2008 Subaru Outback EJ25 and auto trans. In early March, the recently replaced wheel bearing had about 6K miles on it and it started growling pretty bad. I bought another SKF bearing from Rock and did a warranty return. I had no problem getting a refund, but I am wondering if I received a counterfeit or just got a bad bearing. The right front wheel bearing was replaced about two weeks after the LF wheel bearing was replaced in October. I hope that one lasts a lot longer. I have been through about 6 front wheel bearings on this same Outback in the last four years. The next wheel bearing that goes bad is going to be replaced by a wheel bearing purchased at a Subaru dealer with an OEM part. I am getting tired of doing this job so frequently. I use the Subaru factory service manual and torque the four mounting bolts to the 48lb/ft spec and the axle nut to 162 lb/ft spec.

In all fairness, I found that I forgot to torque the axle nut properly on the LF position. I found the nut only lightly seated. Not properly torqued. Oh, and I don't use power tools or impact tools.

Trav, do you still have a 2008 Outback? Last time I talked to you, you were going to overhaul an 08 Outback engine because you bought it with a bad engine that had run out of oil, I think? I saw the bulletin that you posted about the backing plates going bad. I replaced the left front backing plate with a Subaru OEM part when I changed the bearing in early March.
I still have the Outback and it runs and drives great I have about 8K on the engine now and it has not used any measurable oil. It is due for an oil change soon at 4K, I am running Castrol 0w30 euro and Tokyo Roki Japan OE filter, no oil used. The hub bearings and backing plates are notorious on these things I did the front with SKF (one was bad) and the backing plates then did the rear with new plates a few months ago. I have an itch for an A4 Avant 2.0T with a 6 spd stick but will keep the Suby for winter.
 
Hi Trav, I just passed 252K miles on our 08 Outback. #2cylinder has a burnt exhaust valve. I have grown to like this car as it has been a reliable machine. I think I am going to buy an imported JDM replacement used engine and see how that works out?

Thank you for the referral to NCIS as a source for a rebuilt engine.

The Subaru is a great winter car, especially with good winter tires.
 
Also post up how RA handles it. They're typically good but slow, ie they'll just want you to send the old one back and they'll send out a new one.

You might also contact SKF, they might want to see it and they might be more responsive to a complaint from a customer....maybe
My last RA return was a transfer case electric motor for my F150. The OE one lasted 24 years and the RA replacement lasted 10 months. I bought a new one, they shipped it and when I got it I put the warranty one in the same box and returned it, they refunded my CC for the one I bought once I had shipped the warranty one.
 
Hi Trav, I just passed 252K miles on our 08 Outback. #2cylinder has a burnt exhaust valve. I have grown to like this car as it has been a reliable machine. I think I am going to buy an imported JDM replacement used engine and see how that works out?

Thank you for the referral to NCIS as a source for a rebuilt engine.

The Subaru is a great winter car, especially with good winter tires.
Oh, I cannot blame the SKF wheel bearing for failing. I forgot to torque the axle nut and then stake it. The bearing did last about 6,000 miles. The properly installed SKF warranty wheel bearing is holding up pretty well with about 15K miles on it so far..
 
Hi Trav, I just passed 252K miles on our 08 Outback. #2cylinder has a burnt exhaust valve. I have grown to like this car as it has been a reliable machine. I think I am going to buy an imported JDM replacement used engine and see how that works out?

Thank you for the referral to NCIS as a source for a rebuilt engine.

The Subaru is a great winter car, especially with good winter tires.
If you go that route change the HG, timing belt, oil pump and water pump while it is out of the car, it doesnt hurt to pull the pan and have a look see. Easy jobs but can be a PITA once it is all together.
 
Thanks for the heads up! I am thinking of using the OE head gasket for the turbo engine, which is supposed to be a MLS gasket. I think I will use genuine Subaru parts. Are there and aftermarket parts that you trust for Subaru engines?
 
Is this an actual documented procedure? I'm not calling you a liar, it just seems odd to me a unit bearing would care if it's loaded or not when torqued, plus it kinda defeats the purpose of time savings on the assembly line....? Am I crazy?
No idea. All I can figure is if you torque it in the air without the weight of the vehicle on the on suspension and CV axle, the inner CV joint doesn't fully contact the back of the hub and properly set the bearing preload.

That's my theory anyways.

It is fine securing in the air and that is the preferred method and how it done in the factory. The act of running the nut to torque pulls the CV shaft in flush.
 
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