Anyone know how to disable the supplemental inflateable restaint system on a 4th Gen W-Body?

There is another part of the system that locks the door after a certain speed or distance is reached and unlocks the doors when put in park, IIRC you can turn this on and off from the drivers info center.
Do you have or have access to a good scantool that is bidirectional and can trigger actuators? Do you have a power probe?
I will look into the system more today and see if I can find a wire you can access to trip the locks open.
 
There is another part of the system that locks the door after a certain speed or distance is reached and unlocks the doors when put in park, IIRC you can turn this on and off from the drivers info center.
Do you have or have access to a good scantool that is bidirectional and can trigger actuators? Do you have a power probe?
I will look into the system more today and see if I can
No I sure don't. All I have is a bluetooth scanner with torque pro. The doors will lock when I press the lock button but it appears when I go to unlock the doors there isn't enough juice to unlock any of the doors. The plungers jump just ever so slightly but wont go all the way up. I can hear the door trying to unlock and also get a click from the portion of the dashboard where you control the inside and daytime running lights.

EDIT: I just looked a list of fuses and relays for this vehicle and there is only one related to the door locks and trunk release. If the fuse was blown they wouldn't work at all, but the trunk is opening and closing. Only thing I can figure is that either the actuators are going out or there is an problem with one of the light relays that is causing an issue with the door lock actuators. I'll check the running lights next time I'm over there.
 
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That is where the BCM is located and could well be the root source of the issues. The 10 pin connector has a tan wire on pin 2 circuit 694 (see the pdf I made) this is the one that triggers the driver door to unlock, a power probe can be used for this job. This is fairly simple stuff but requires some tools and equipment.
There is a very good possibility the BCM has gone bad, it is very common. Get it checked out if you cant do it, if it needs a module this is the one the spec for your car. GM only has remans for this application.


Same part at Rock so the one from Summit is a real deal if you need it.

 
I'll call the mobile mechanic today and see if he has any scan tools and ask him if he knows what the problem is. I know years ago one of my ex's brothers told me to replace the malfunctioning drivers door actuator or it would cause other issues, this is probably what he was talking about.

It used to only be the front driver door that had issues unlocking, not it's all of them. Whatever the issue is there's not enough voltage to unlock the door when I press the unlock button.
 
It is not like the old days when you had a whole bunch of wiring for each door, the body control module reduces the amount of wiring, it does control a lot of circuits that when it has issues can can cause single or multiple issues.
I have seen a few that went crazy rapidly locking and unlocking the doors driving down the road, the thing was possessed. A new BCM fixed it, I am not saying that is or not your problem it needs to be diagnosed but it would be no surprise if it was.
 
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