Anyone ever replace a Ford electric lock actuator?

[jsharp]

The electric lock actuator motors on my '90 Mustang both need replaced. The one in the drivers door died a couple of years ago and now the passenger side is getting sticky. I wouldn't mind locking the doors manually but when the motor freezes it freezes the manual lock too...;(

So to anyone who's done it -

Do I need any special tools to get the inner door panel off without breaking it or any of the fasteners?

Where did you get the lock motors? They are big bucks from Ford, the auto parts stores have them for $60-$90 each, and at least one place on eBay is $40 each. Any experience with the cheapies? I'd rather not spend $150 on this job if I can avoid it...

Thanks in advance!!

 

[rpn453]

On most vehicles they're very easy to do.
I'd check at an auto wrecker first.
I'd definitely go with jobbers over $150 Ford ones if necessary. These are usually very cheaply made and simple devices because that's all they need to be.

 

[brianl703]

Some people on http://www.corral.net have had luck using the $10 aftermarket/universal ones from http://www.partsexpress.com

They are intended for adding power locks to a vehicle that never had it before, usually in conjunction with a keyless entry system, but they will work for replacing the factory actuators.

 

[jsharp]

quote:

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Originally posted by brianl703:
Some people on http://www.corral.net have had luck using the $10 aftermarket/universal ones from http://www.partsexpress.com

They are intended for adding power locks to a vehicle that never had it before, usually in conjunction with a keyless entry system, but they will work for replacing the factory actuators.

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I saw that after I posted this thread. I'm trying to decide if I should go that way or buy a couple of the $40 ones. I guess at under $4 each the Parts Express ones might be worth trying to make work...

 

[Russ]

As for the special tools, there are devices for removing the pushpins that retain the door panel. As far as I know, only Snap-On, Mack, Matco and such carry them (although I haven't ever bothered to look anywhere else, so I'm not sure). Furthermore, this tool may not be necessary, since you can get away with using a small prybar if you are careful enough (it sure wouldn't make sence to spend $25+ on a tool that will be used only once).
If I remember correctly, the actuators are riveted to the door sheet metal. It would be a very good idea to get the replacement rivets from Ford (apparently, there is a world of difference between those, and the cheapie substitutes).

 

[Flashlightboy]

Funny thing because I just did my drivers side door on my Explorer this past weekend.

A couple of tips. Find the proper tool to wedge between the door and the door panel. You don't want to break off the fasteners or more importantly, the fastner attachments molded into the door panel. Most auto parts store carry the right tool but I bought mine from Snap On for $11. Works great and I don't think a wide blade screwdriver will work very well. You can by the plastic fasteners at Pep Boys if necessary but it shouldn't be.

I bought my acutator from a dealer in Florida that sells OEM parts. Price was all the mattered.

The bracket is held on by a a huge aluminum rivet that is so dang big a regular riveter is too small. And I'm not sure a human being has the umph to squeeze the riverter anyway because it's stout like Nell Carter.

My rivet snapped off behind the door panel and so I used a stainless steel buttonhead screw 3/4 inches long and the usual washer and lock washers to attach the new bracket. The actuator comes with a new bracket (much stronger) and the trick on my X was to remove the rear window channel first. That frees up tons of space.

Take the new bracket off the actuator and bolt in place, put some oil on the rubber weatherproofing boot, slide the J hook around the lock assembly and snap the actuator into the bracket. You need some oil to slide over the rubber so it doesn't tear. Reassemble and admire your savings.

Including parts and tools my outlay was under $100. Having never done this before it took me 2 1/2 hours total - 1 1/2 hours to take things apart by going slow and and hour to put things together, paint the button head screw and put my tools away.

Next time I think the total time would be 1 1/2 hours.

 

[Kestas]

I just repaired two on my 91 Marquis sedan. The part costs $120, but the counter guy at the dealer gave me Ford employee price ($95) when he saw my reaction to the price.

You can also repair the old one if you're resourceful enough. Open the can, clean out the contamination, and relube. The tough part is fastening it back together. For each repair the rubber boot was trashed.

 

[jsharp]

Thanks for all the replys! I looked around and think I'll buy the tools and some extra fasteners before I take the door panels off. I'm still trying to decide if the $4 Parts Express acuators are worth trying. I can't imagine it would that hard to fab some brackets to hold them.

Once I get the tools and get the door panels off I can decide...

 

[Kestas]

Keep us posted. I can't imagine the salvage I did by cleaning the motors would last long... the rubber shrouds are gone.

I expect that the $4 Parts Express actuators are simply solenoids. The original motors on my car are linear actuators with an electric motor.

 

[brianl703]

The door lock actuators in a mustang are simply solenoids, too.

Making the Parts Express ones a direct electrical, if not mechanical, replacement.

 

[edwardh1]

some for my son's old oldsmobile were $30 on the web.
Looked up on a Range Rover just for fun - actuator was $180 .

 

[jsharp]

quote:

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Originally posted by edwardh1:
some for my son's old oldsmobile were $30 on the web.
Looked up on a Range Rover just for fun - actuator was $180 .

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A friend has a 5 series Mercedes sedan. The actuator motors for the truck keep burning out. So far they've replaced 3 on warranty and it's a good thing because the dealer told her they're over $500 each...