Any video/image examples of sludge cleaning from short OCI?

Is the sludge clean ability specifically limited to the HM flavor of M1. ?

My engine is making its oil look nasty, which to me says it is cleaning. So maybe another change of the oil is coming ..
 
M1 used to claim their high mileage oils will remove engine sludge within just one oil change. I wonder if that’s still on their site?
But they never said how much removed, did they? Sludge in modern engines is rare. Where you see sludge is in pre 1960 (about) engines with no adequate crankcase ventilation.
 
As is nearly always the case in these types of threads there is no indication anything even needs cleaning in the first place. If you're cleaning out imaginary sludge then any oil will do as long as you believe.

I can say this however. In my old "sludge monster" 1MZ-FE at nearly 450,000 miles there is no sludge. I've had the valve covers off numerous times, even posted pictures here at various miles (all since deleted from Photobucket unfortunately). I've even had the oil pan off once or twice. This was with running about a 7,500 mile OCI on mostly Mobil 1 with some Castrol 0W-40 thrown in here and there. I think your insistence on finding the magic video or picture is a wild goose chase since I don't see any oils doing a lot of "cleaning" in my experience. The pictures Overkill posted are pretty good but you dismiss them by saying they cheated? Who is to say anyone else posting such pictures didn't cheat just the same then? You're looking for magic where there is none to be had.
 
Well, people claim it both ways, but nobody has any actual evidence that it does or does not clean? Why do some oils claim to clean out existing sludge?

This guy on Youtube did a Seafoam test, before and after, showing it cleaned up his engine. Not saying he's done it correctly or telling the truth, but it would be cool to find some before and after samples with just plain engine oil with short OCI.


One product that I know works well is LiquiMoly OIL SLUDGE FLUSH, Seafoam may also work, but I'd put my money on Liquimoly 1st.
 
One product that I know works well is LiquiMoly OIL SLUDGE FLUSH, Seafoam may also work, but I'd put my money on Liquimoly 1st.

According to FCPEuro

"Liqui Moly's engine flush product is not a heavy chemical flush type product (which we specifically advise against using). The makeup of this flush is comprised of the same detergents and dispersants that Liqui Moly uses in their engine oils (just in a higher concentration) so it is safe to use as it gently breaks up varnish and deposit as opposed to dislodging/dissolving them instantly. It is much less aggressive compared to traditional flushes and works best when used as part of your long term car care regiment."
 
Seems like there just isn't enough evidence out there (other than people just saying it works) that doing short oil changes does much for old sludge? It's such a common thing to recommend across the internet to say "do a few short OCI and work your way up to OEM interval, and everything should be good."

I will make sure to get images of my engine if the valve covers need to come off for seals. I could then do a follow up on the front bank of the engine after a few more regular oil changes. Even if I did get to them now, the van is already through a lot of fresh oil and I would have no idea what it looked like when I first got it.
 
As is nearly always the case in these types of threads there is no indication anything even needs cleaning in the first place. If you're cleaning out imaginary sludge then any oil will do as long as you believe.

I can say this however. In my old "sludge monster" 1MZ-FE at nearly 450,000 miles there is no sludge. I've had the valve covers off numerous times, even posted pictures here at various miles (all since deleted from Photobucket unfortunately). I've even had the oil pan off once or twice. This was with running about a 7,500 mile OCI on mostly Mobil 1 with some Castrol 0W-40 thrown in here and there. I think your insistence on finding the magic video or picture is a wild goose chase since I don't see any oils doing a lot of "cleaning" in my experience. The pictures Overkill posted are pretty good but you dismiss them by saying they cheated? Who is to say anyone else posting such pictures didn't cheat just the same then? You're looking for magic where there is none to be had.
That's pretty impressive miles on that engine! Good work.

I wish I knew for sure how mine was treated, but it has over 200,000 miles and seems to run perfect. I'm not stressing too hard about sludge, but doing a few short OCI on an old used car never hurts. :cool: Oil and filters are basically a rounding error in my yearly fuel costs. :(

I was being a bit sarcastic saying they cheated. ;) Just poking fun at the photo evidence provided by the company making the marketing claim.
 
This guy used seafoam to fix his rough running engine. Unfortunately, he doesn't remove a valve cover or the oil pan for closer inspection either before and/or after. However, in the follow up video he borescopes the engine one year later. He does a good job with product reviews. He has 1.5 million subscribers.
and
 
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Because it doesn't exist and never will (a legitimate one anyway that can be verified)

Oils by definition don't clean ( they keep clean- thats a big difference) That was specifically pointed out up thread. Oils are NOT solvents- they don't "clean" anything. detergents are not soaps- they are suspension agents.

So if an engine is heavily varnished with baked/caked stuff- no oil made operating under normal engine flows is going to clean anything.

At BEST it will "wet' it and rinse off the loose top layer. ( that's all the cheap flushes do too)

Anyone who wants to test that- find a dirty engine, pour that "cleaning oil" on a rag and have at it. It wont take long to realize that motor oils don't "clean" anything.
In the oil and gas production environment some wells have production tubing that gets deposits of paraffin, coal dust and other materials that basically becomes sludge, slowing the uplift and production of that well.


do you know what the cure for these deposits is? A solvent? mechanical cleaning?, no.

the best solution is Hot oil circulation.
A hot oil truck is connected to the well flowing very hot oil down the OA and up the IA. Removing deposits so even a gravity plunger piston works as a lift device meaning that tubing is now clean.

Hot oil cleans hydrocarbon deposits.
 
In my years of messing with internal combustion engines, I have never found an oil that would clean deposits or sludge left by another oil. It takes a solvent capable of dissolving hydrocarbon residue to accomplish that task. Multiple OCIs at short intervals has never cleaned anything, it will only remove things that have been loosened by some other method. Think short OCI after liberal use of Berryman B12 Chemtool...

Just my $0.02
 
This guy used seafoam to fix his rough running engine. Unfortunately, he doesn't remove a valve cover or the oil pan for closer inspection either before and/or after. However, in the follow up video he borescopes the engine one year later. He does a good job with product reviews. He has 1.5 million subscribers.
and

That stuff is for entertainment only. I recommend a use of the search function for "Project Farm" on here.
 
Engine oil isn't a cleaning solvent. Doing short OCIs specifically for sludge cleaning is a waste of time and money.

Do normal OCIs with a quality oil and forget about it.
Or (I know this is highly controversial) just use a flush product whose purpose is....to do this...
 
In the oil and gas production environment some wells have production tubing that gets deposits of paraffin, coal dust and other materials that basically becomes sludge, slowing the uplift and production of that well.


do you know what the cure for these deposits is? A solvent? mechanical cleaning?, no.

the best solution is Hot oil circulation.

HOLY MOTHER OF PEOPLE NOT KNOWING THE WHOLE STORY PRESENTING NON SEQUITUR COMPARISONS THAT ARE POLAR OPPOSITES BATMAN, LOL

I'm not only aware of the process, we team with a few tank companies in Texas that do it. Now let me explain the errors in your comparison.

First that "oil" is treated for incremental cleaning ( based on the sample analysis not unlike cleaning scale from a boiler) so its not "motor oil" ( and this aint a car engine)

It uses heat and velocity ( heat expands the pipe and thermally shocks the hard deposits and the velocity breaks them and carries them off)

Plus this is for piping ( not the same pathways and pressures of an ICE as is the subject of the thread and context of my statements)

Often, this is used in conjunction with pigging depending on the type and degree of contamination.

I want you now to explain to the class how you are going to effectively adapt and duplicate this process inside an internal combustion engine? (otherwise it was a meaningless comparison right up there with it is equally realistic to break the engine down and hand wipe every part before reassembly during an oil change to make sure the sludge/varnish is gone and there is no wear)
 
I have I just can’t figure out why people don’t like him. He shows how products work I especially like the ones where he actually test them in engines.

He does NOT do scientific testing and is relatively forthcoming about that fact. These are for entertainment, they aren't properly controlled and properly vetted testing protocols with well defined error bars and understanding of the limits. The problem is that many (most?) people don't understand that aspect of it and thus feel that these are proper metrics to gauge performance by.

Again, this has all been well covered in the numerous threads on the subject, but some of them are pretty long.
 
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