Any reasons NOT to use Rotella 5w-40 in Euro Turbo?

Status
Not open for further replies.
Originally Posted by Zolton
This is why it's a good idea....



Does anyone want a hat?


If you are being serious, I would like one ! haha
 
Originally Posted by Bjornviken
xx-30 can have a 229.5. Your compering a full saps oil with a lowsaps oil.
What in "and you dont like 504 5W-30" you have dont understand? And why that was a comparison? Is now weed-weekend in Suomi?

Quote
So what country in EU do they put a 229.5 spec oil insted of a VW 504 spec oil?
smile.gif

I spoke, "oil guys". Guys like a most Bitog users. I mean, OIL GUYS. Folks interested for oil and with not less than littlebit know-how about it. Guys, you dont understand. Not about countrys. And also not about you.

Ok my texts are nowhere near simply. For you because of content, for the rest because of language. Leave it, to think about that, folks from UK, USA or Canada. For you its littlebit too big wheel and each time your disaster.

Thx.

edit:
SORRY. Of course also from Downunder and NZ
56.gif
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by Lowflyer
Dont worry. It oftens happens to you
56.gif


Reading your posts it does. It reminds me when my kid just started to speak.
 
Originally Posted by edyvw
Originally Posted by Lowflyer
Dont worry. It oftens happens to you
56.gif


Reading your posts it does. It reminds me when my kid just started to speak.


Holy smoke thats was a good one
crackmeup2.gif
 
Originally Posted by jbutch
Originally Posted by Zolton
This is why it's a good idea....



Does anyone want a hat?


If you are being serious, I would like one ! haha


Just PM me an address.
 
Originally Posted by edyvw
I have no idea what is going on here.


That was my first thought after opening the thread. Love reading some google translated but local to Lowflyer phrases like "what on the leaf" and others. Might cancel my TV subscription, I've got all the entertainment I need for free
 
Originally Posted by JOD
Originally Posted by aleneros
Originally Posted by JOD
Originally Posted by Zolton
A lot of car sites, people claim they get their best UOA results on Rotella. BMW, Subaru....etc


I don't know what a "best UOA" is, but on my 1.8T EA888 (Stage 1 APR tune), my wear numbers have been low single digits, and there's plenty of additive left.

I'm using a 504/507 oil, which is what is spec'd. I don't consider it a huge hardship to purchase it and put it in the vehicle. I'm not running an oil change shop at my house, so minimizing sku count isn't a big concern. I order oil when I need it, or a change or two ahead of time if it's on sale. That's not too fussy for me.

Personally, I wouldn't use a highly additized oil in a direct injection engine that doesn't call for it. I see no benefits, and some potential drawbacks.




Hi JOD,

What is your OCI? And which oil you used BTW?


My OCI is conservative, between 5 and 6K, but only because the tune dumps a bit more fuel into the oil. You can see 2 of my last 3 UOA's here. I have a 3rd on that is 6K, and it's almost identical: https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/foru...w1-8t-ea888-alltrack-5011-miles-apr-tune

I'm currently using Mobil1 Formula 5W30 ESP.

Taiwan has been low sulfur for longer than the US, so fuel quality shouldn't be an issue. It's more the breathing in of scooter exhaust that's the issues! (I'm in Taichung about 3 months a year).



That's interesting! you've been Taichung! Hope you enjoy the food/sightseeing with pearl bubble tea lol
I happen to own a Skoda Kodiaq SUV equipped with VAG EA888 Gen3b petrol engine 2.0, and trying to find a high C/P engine oil for it.

Currently it's running comprehensive 5W-30 LL VW 504 00/507 00 (probably Shell? I checked the bottle bottom it's written something like:Shell HK office)

The OCI is planned as 15000KM/year, also as they advised/covered in warranty.

I wonder if VW502 00/50500 (FULL SAPS) is a better choice than a VW 504 00/507 00(Mid/low SAPS) one If I stick with the current OCI? (mixed driving condition 60% city/40% highway)

The UOA fee in Taiwan is quite high (~USD 80), I wonder if there is any alternative way to figure this out?
smile.gif

BTW, what is the UOA fee in your side?
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by SlavaB
That was my first thought after opening the thread. Love reading some google translated but local to Lowflyer phrases like "what on the leaf" and others. Might cancel my TV subscription, I've got all the entertainment I need for free
You mean I can open my own show?
56.gif


And contrary to your TV subscription, in my show you will never be lied...
 
Originally Posted by Lowflyer
Originally Posted by SlavaB
That was my first thought after opening the thread. Love reading some google translated but local to Lowflyer phrases like "what on the leaf" and others. Might cancel my TV subscription, I've got all the entertainment I need for free
You mean I can open my own show?
56.gif


And contrary to your TV subscription, in my show you will never be lied...

Hells yeah go for it, you have a talent
 
Caterpillar Labs is the cheapest here, $15 if you drop it off at a dealership.

I used 50/50% Rotella 5w-40 and Pennzoil Platinum mix in my Audi 3.2 V6 DI, and got very low wear....

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]


In my world, anything is possible.
 
Originally Posted by aleneros

That's interesting! you've been Taichung! Hope you enjoy the food/sightseeing with pearl bubble tea lol
I happen to own a Skoda Kodiaq SUV equipped with VAG EA888 Gen3b petrol engine 2.0, and trying to find a high C/P engine oil for it.

Currently it's running comprehensive 5W-30 LL VW 504 00/507 00 (probably Shell? I checked the bottle bottom it's written something like:Shell HK office)

The OCI is planned as 15000KM/year, also as they advised/covered in warranty.

I wonder if VW502 00/50500 (FULL SAPS) is a better choice than a VW 504 00/507 00(Mid/low SAPS) one If I stick with the current OCI? (mixed driving condition 60% city/40% highway)

The UOA fee in Taiwan is quite high (~USD 80), I wonder if there is any alternative way to figure this out?
smile.gif

BTW, what is the UOA fee in your side?


Yes, the food is great! Been to most of the traditional market vendors in Yuanlin, where I normally stay, and never get tired of it. I hated bubble tea until the night markets. Something about 90 degrees and 100% humidity makes it taste a lot better!

UOA's are typically around $20-35 USD. Not sure how international shipping would work, but I don't believe that motor oil is a hazmat, so it may be worth checking out some US vendors.

If your engine isn't tuned, 504/507 should hold up to 15,000KM without difficulty, unless you're in constant traffic. Not sure where you're located, but the driving around Taichung/Nantou isn't too bad. Less traffic than Seattle, and unlike China people don't drive in the oncoming traffic lane! The 504/507 oils seem to be quite robust, despite the low starting TBN that freaks out everyone.
 
I had it backwards, thinking 504 for a shorter (6mo) interval, and full SAPS for a longer interval of 12mo.

I don't think we fully understand the implications of the two different formulas. Heck, VW's sticker under the hood even lists these 2 vastly different oils; 502 and 504.

I would DEFINITELY use 504 over a specific 502 oil, like Syntec 5w-40, but oils that also have 229.5 full SAPS might have advantage over 504, stress on the "might". Of course, fuel quality being the decider in some cases.

Since I have a ton of Rotella 5w-40 already, and a bunch of PZ Ultra 0w-40 Viper spec I will choose to use it up verses buying 504 oil. However, if I was buying oil it would not be $50/jug 504, but rather half price PZ Euro L MB 229.51....one of the few products yo get more than your money's worth.

I have about 15G of CK4 RTS, and about 45q of PZ 0w-40, plus a few jugs of M1 0w-40 for my new Mercedes and 4 jugs of Rotella Gas Truck 5w-30 which will be the winter oil for the VW in a few years. Factory fill is only 10cSt, Rotella GT might be a lil thicker. It has a lightweight additive formula, which can only be an improvement on the current high calcium formulas. Even Edge 0w-40 went back to high Ca.


But yeah, I mixed RTS and PZ Platinum in my V6 DI Audi 3.2 for a decently long oci, and it did very well. Would people use these oil or a mix of them if they were free? I already have a stash, so yeah..... just a matter of selecting the best way to use them.

I am a winter/summer oil guy. My wife's commute is just a few miles at low speed. In winter her car barely warms up. Instead of 6 months / 6 months, I might even reduce it to 5 months of winter and 7 of summer. Timed intervals are where it is at!!!
 
Originally Posted by Zolton
I had it backwards, thinking 504 for a shorter (6mo) interval, and full SAPS for a longer interval of 12mo.

I don't think we fully understand the implications of the two different formulas. Heck, VW's sticker under the hood even lists these 2 vastly different oils; 502 and 504.

I would DEFINITELY use 504 over a specific 502 oil, like Syntec 5w-40, but oils that also have 229.5 full SAPS might have advantage over 504, stress on the "might". Of course, fuel quality being the decider in some cases.

Since I have a ton of Rotella 5w-40 already, and a bunch of PZ Ultra 0w-40 Viper spec I will choose to use it up verses buying 504 oil. However, if I was buying oil it would not be $50/jug 504, but rather half price PZ Euro L MB 229.51....one of the few products yo get more than your money's worth.

I have about 15G of CK4 RTS, and about 45q of PZ 0w-40, plus a few jugs of M1 0w-40 for my new Mercedes and 4 jugs of Rotella Gas Truck 5w-30 which will be the winter oil for the VW in a few years. Factory fill is only 10cSt, Rotella GT might be a lil thicker. It has a lightweight additive formula, which can only be an improvement on the current high calcium formulas. Even Edge 0w-40 went back to high Ca.


But yeah, I mixed RTS and PZ Platinum in my V6 DI Audi 3.2 for a decently long oci, and it did very well. Would people use these oil or a mix of them if they were free? I already have a stash, so yeah..... just a matter of selecting the best way to use them.

I am a winter/summer oil guy. My wife's commute is just a few miles at low speed. In winter her car barely warms up. Instead of 6 months / 6 months, I might even reduce it to 5 months of winter and 7 of summer. Timed intervals are where it is at!!!

I think you wanted to put here "I."
 
Originally Posted by Zolton
Originally Posted by jbutch
Originally Posted by Zolton
This is why it's a good idea....



Does anyone want a hat?


If you are being serious, I would like one ! haha


Just PM me an address.


I just got my hats, big thank you, it is very appreciated!!
 
Originally Posted by edyvw
Originally Posted by Zolton
I had it backwards, thinking 504 for a shorter (6mo) interval, and full SAPS for a longer interval of 12mo.

I don't think we fully understand the implications of the two different formulas. Heck, VW's sticker under the hood even lists these 2 vastly different oils; 502 and 504.

I would DEFINITELY use 504 over a specific 502 oil, like Syntec 5w-40, but oils that also have 229.5 full SAPS might have advantage over 504, stress on the "might". Of course, fuel quality being the decider in some cases.

Since I have a ton of Rotella 5w-40 already, and a bunch of PZ Ultra 0w-40 Viper spec I will choose to use it up verses buying 504 oil. However, if I was buying oil it would not be $50/jug 504, but rather half price PZ Euro L MB 229.51....one of the few products yo get more than your money's worth.

I have about 15G of CK4 RTS, and about 45q of PZ 0w-40, plus a few jugs of M1 0w-40 for my new Mercedes and 4 jugs of Rotella Gas Truck 5w-30 which will be the winter oil for the VW in a few years. Factory fill is only 10cSt, Rotella GT might be a lil thicker. It has a lightweight additive formula, which can only be an improvement on the current high calcium formulas. Even Edge 0w-40 went back to high Ca.


But yeah, I mixed RTS and PZ Platinum in my V6 DI Audi 3.2 for a decently long oci, and it did very well. Would people use these oil or a mix of them if they were free? I already have a stash, so yeah..... just a matter of selecting the best way to use them.

I am a winter/summer oil guy. My wife's commute is just a few miles at low speed. In winter her car barely warms up. Instead of 6 months / 6 months, I might even reduce it to 5 months of winter and 7 of summer. Timed intervals are where it is at!!!

I think you wanted to put here "I."


Except that "U" are not able to explain the differences, lol
lol.gif


In all seriousness, I feel sorry for the people around U.
frown.gif
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top