Any reason to use synthetic if you change your oil every 3-4k in DI engine?

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Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
Originally Posted by Ignatius
PYB 10w-30 is the only conventional I would consider using in my Hyundai's GDI engine and that is only because of that oil's low NOACK rating.
What are the Noack numbers for 5w/10w30s Pennzoil Yellow Bottle? Keeping that engine clean is also important with GDI/TGDI engines. Pennzoil rates their oils this way... Pennzoil Yellow Bottle One Star Pennzoil Platinum Two Stars Pennzoil Ultra Platinum Three Stars
PYB 10W-30 has NOACK in the 4 range, ultra low, and from my understanding lower NOACK would mean lower likelihood of carbon buildup. I agree that in a general sense PP and PUP have more cleaning elements in their formula but they likely do little to nothing that would mitigate carbon buildup and having higher NOACK values suggests that they are more susceptible to contributing to carbon buildup. I would be perfectly happy running PYB 10W-30 in my Hyundai GDI for 5000 miles outside the winter months.
 
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Originally Posted by jayjr1105
Synthetics beat conventional in more than just longevity. What DI engine doesn't say to use full synthetic in the manual anyway?
All Fords
 
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Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
[quote=Ignatius] Keeping that engine clean is also important with GDI/TGDI engines. Pennzoil rates their oils this way... Pennzoil Yellow Bottle One Star Pennzoil Platinum Two Stars Pennzoil Ultra Platinum Three Stars
Very Scientific on their part
 
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*As Gokhan and others have noted : Intake Valve Deposits come from high VII's and not so much from a higher NOACK oil .
Originally Posted by Ignatius
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
Originally Posted by Ignatius
PYB 10w-30 is the only conventional I would consider using in my Hyundai's GDI engine and that is only because of that oil's low NOACK rating.
What are the Noack numbers for 5w/10w30s Pennzoil Yellow Bottle? Keeping that engine clean is also important with GDI/TGDI engines. Pennzoil rates their oils this way... Pennzoil Yellow Bottle One Star Pennzoil Platinum Two Stars Pennzoil Ultra Platinum Three Stars
PYB 10W-30 has NOACK in the 4 range, ultra low, and from my understanding lower NOACK would mean lower likelihood of carbon buildup. I agree that in a general sense PP and PUP have more cleaning elements in their formula but they likely do little to nothing that would mitigate carbon buildup and having higher NOACK values suggests that they are more susceptible to contributing to carbon buildup. I would be perfectly happy running PYB 10W-30 in my Hyundai GDI for 5000 miles outside the winter months.
 
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The latest -B1 spec Ford 5W-30 is a synthetic blend, but if you do a spec sheet search in Pennzoil's website, the -A1 Ford spec 5W-30 that Ford told everyone to use up until 2019, translates to a conventional Pennzoil 5W-30. But the newer -B1 spec 5W-30 translates to Pennzoil's Dexos1 Gen 2 synth Blend 5W-30 at the lowest tier. I remember when I got my 2014 SHO, I did the part #/spec # search and found Pennzoil conventional 5W-30 met the required oil spec for the twin-turbo V6. I performed UOAs at about 6k just shy of the oil life monitor, and there was quite a bit of aluminum and iron wear even out to 30k miles. TBN looked very low. Blackstone couldn't perform the accurate fuel dilution analysis, but the oil always reeked of gas.
 
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Originally Posted by ChrisD46
*As Gokhan and others have noted : Intake Valve Deposits come from high VII's and not so much from a higher NOACK oil.
I did see Gokhan's most recent excel spreadsheet on VII and it is making me want to swap out my jug of RGT 5w-30 for RGT 5w-20. As far as this conversation is concerned I am in the group that sees no reason to buy conventional oil when a quality synthetic can be had for a lower price if one factors in rebates and/or other promotions. I made out like a bandit buying Rotella Gas Truck, Pennzoil, Mobil 1, and Valvoline synthetics over the past year with all the special deals those brands have offered.
 
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maybe the price is low beacuse they are "synthetics"? real synthetic like amsoil or redline are expensive. thinking out loud.
 
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Originally Posted by jayjr1105
Synthetics beat conventional in more than just longevity. What DI engine doesn't say to use full synthetic in the manual anyway?
I would have to double check when I'm over tonight, but my fathers Ford "Tortoise" SHO only needs a basic Ford spec. DI, twin turbo, AWD and 0-60 in 5.1 seconds IIRC. It of course gets full synthetic though.
 
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Originally Posted by mpgo4th
Originally Posted by jayjr1105
Synthetics beat conventional in more than just longevity. What DI engine doesn't say to use full synthetic in the manual anyway?
All Fords
Don't most Ford OLM's go to 10K as well?
 
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I would continue to use a good synthetic and for a DI engine I really like Mobil 1 due to its lower SA level which is good for preventing intake valve deposits.
 
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Originally Posted by jayjr1105
Originally Posted by mpgo4th
Originally Posted by jayjr1105
Synthetics beat conventional in more than just longevity. What DI engine doesn't say to use full synthetic in the manual anyway?
All Fords
Don't most Ford OLM's go to 10K as well?
The newer IOLM on Fords can go up to 10k or 12,000 at the max. Most of the ones that use this feature say the light comes on between 6-9,000. And Ford says this is all fine using a synblend meeting their spec OR SN+ if their spec oil is not available.
 
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