Any reason to use synthetic if you change your oil every 3-4k in DI engine?

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Originally Posted by Whammo
Discounting price, would there be any performance differences at that short of an OCI?
To answer your question, no. I use synthetic because it's $1.00 more for a 5 qt jug than conventional (for now anyway). I would still use synthetic regardless of the price. But I don't change oil as often as you.
 
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1) Synthetics typically have lower volatility, which is pretty much mandatory for DI engines for which the big problem is excessive volatilization of motor oil that causes intake deposits. 2) 3-4k intervals in a DI engine is a very poor idea because of excessive exposure to volatilized motor oil products. So dino + short intervals is, in my belief, literally the worst thing you could do to a DI engine. To prevent DI intake deposits, you need the combination of the long(er) drain intervals and the low volatility oil.
 

Whammo

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Originally Posted by pitzel
1) Synthetics typically have lower volatility, which is pretty much mandatory for DI engines for which the big problem is excessive volatilization of motor oil that causes intake deposits. 2) 3-4k intervals in a DI engine is a very poor idea because of excessive exposure to volatilized motor oil products. So dino + short intervals is, in my belief, literally the worst thing you could do to a DI engine. To prevent DI intake deposits, you need the combination of the long(er) drain intervals and the low volatility oil.
Never have I heard that. The manual says 3,750 miles in severe driving conditions. You are saying they are wrong? Also, fuel dilution is a serious thing for DI engines, a longer OCI is not going to help that.
 
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*Follow you manual , use a synthetic oil with the oil type stamped on your oil fill cap ...
Originally Posted by Whammo
Originally Posted by pitzel
1) Synthetics typically have lower volatility, which is pretty much mandatory for DI engines for which the big problem is excessive volatilization of motor oil that causes intake deposits. 2) 3-4k intervals in a DI engine is a very poor idea because of excessive exposure to volatilized motor oil products. So dino + short intervals is, in my belief, literally the worst thing you could do to a DI engine. To prevent DI intake deposits, you need the combination of the long(er) drain intervals and the low volatility oil.
Never have I heard that. The manual says 3,750 miles in severe driving conditions. You are saying they are wrong?
 
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Originally Posted by Whammo
Originally Posted by pitzel
1) Synthetics typically have lower volatility, which is pretty much mandatory for DI engines for which the big problem is excessive volatilization of motor oil that causes intake deposits. 2) 3-4k intervals in a DI engine is a very poor idea because of excessive exposure to volatilized motor oil products. So dino + short intervals is, in my belief, literally the worst thing you could do to a DI engine. To prevent DI intake deposits, you need the combination of the long(er) drain intervals and the low volatility oil.
Never have I heard that. The manual says 3,750 miles in severe driving conditions. You are saying they are wrong? Also, fuel dilution is a serious thing for DI engines, a longer OCI is not going to help that.
"Severe" is an extremely limited subset of operation rarely experienced in a typical passenger car. And fuel dilution is less of a problem than its made out to be, and may even be beneficial at certain levels in reducing effective in-service viscosity.
 
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required lubes must be supplied FREE, recommend is just that. lower priced synthetics are predominantly group III oils aka highly refined CRUDE oil NOW legally sold + advertised as synthetic. for the minimal xtra cost the cheap synthetics are a no brainer IMO
 
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Originally Posted by pitzel
"Severe" is an extremely limited subset of operation rarely experienced in a typical passenger car.
No, no, no. Look around, almost everyone here operates their vehicle under "severe" service.
Originally Posted by pitzel
And fuel dilution is less of a problem than its made out to be
That's blasphemy !
 
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Originally Posted by hallstevenson
Originally Posted by pitzel
"Severe" is an extremely limited subset of operation rarely experienced in a typical passenger car.
No, no, no. Look around, almost everyone here operates their vehicle under "severe" service.
Originally Posted by pitzel
And fuel dilution is less of a problem than its made out to be
That's blasphemy !
Here's my DI engine UOA with nearly 7K and no fuel https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/foru.../re-2013-mazda-3-mobil-1-afe-0w20-6700mi
 
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Originally Posted by pitzel
1) Synthetics typically have lower volatility, which is pretty much mandatory for DI engines for which the big problem is excessive volatilization of motor oil that causes intake deposits.
There is evidence that intake valve deposits do not come from PCV fumes. Rather they come from exhaust gases flowing from the combustion chamber into the intake at the beginning of the intake stroke. https://docplayer.net/38978662-Cons...in-gasoline-direct-injection-engine.html
 
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Originally Posted by Whammo
Originally Posted by Eddie
NO is the correct answer, but with today's lower synthetic prices and your doing your own oil changes, why not? Ed
I think you answered your own question: There is no difference at that OCI.
Why are you still here in this thread? You have already sold yourself on using conventional. Go ahead. Buy the conventional. Use it.
 

BlueOvalFitter

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Originally Posted by Whammo
My understanding is that synthetics are great for long OCI's but if you run short OCI's there's no need to use them. I have a DI engine that requires oil changes ever 3-4k because of the driving conditions I have. Is there any reason not to use conventional/blend in my situation? In the dead of winter I use synthetic because of the extreme cold but I'm talking about spring/summer/fall now.
My cousin owns a 2017 NAVI, 3.5 Eco-Boost. He uses PYB in it every 5K miles.
 

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Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
Originally Posted by Whammo
Originally Posted by Eddie
NO is the correct answer, but with today's lower synthetic prices and your doing your own oil changes, why not? Ed
I think you answered your own question: There is no difference at that OCI.
Why are you still here in this thread? You have already sold yourself on using conventional. Go ahead. Buy the conventional. Use it.
I was using his own answer to answer his question. I'm not saying that's my opinion, yet.
 
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I've also read that synthetics are not as seal friendly but not sure how true that is ... I'm using dino in 2 older cars and syn in 2 newer cars. We'll see how the seals hold up since I keep at least one of the old cars when we buy a new one.
 
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Originally Posted by OilUzer
I've also read that synthetics are not as seal friendly but not sure how true that is ... I'm using dino in 2 older cars and syn in 2 newer cars. We'll see how the seals hold up since I keep at least one of the old cars when we buy a new one.
I don't think that's very true. Especially not anything somewhat modern. The issue is putting better cleaning oil in an engine with worn out seals covered in sludge.
 
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I don't think it will matter but the price difference is so small I'd go with at least a syn blend. Which probably is not much different than a conventional. These frequent changes are the key. I like seeing my oil come out brown and not black as tar.
 
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PYB 10w-30 is the only conventional I would consider using in my Hyundai's GDI engine and that is only because of that oil's low NOACK rating.
 
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Originally Posted by Ignatius
PYB 10w-30 is the only conventional I would consider using in my Hyundai's GDI engine and that is only because of that oil's low NOACK rating.
What are the Noack numbers for 5w/10w30s Pennzoil Yellow Bottle? Keeping that engine clean is also important with GDI/TGDI engines. Pennzoil rates their oils this way... Pennzoil Yellow Bottle One Star Pennzoil Platinum Two Stars Pennzoil Ultra Platinum Three Stars
 
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To your car specifically, maybe not. Synthetic prevail in extreme temperatures, so if you are in a really cold climate or you have an V8 AMG twin turbo with 600+ hp you might want to use synthetic.
 
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