Originally Posted by Whammo
Discounting price, would there be any performance differences at that short of an OCI?
Any reason to use synthetic if you change your oil every 3-4k in DI engine?
- Thread starter Whammo
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To answer your question, no. I use synthetic because it's $1.00 more for a 5 qt jug than conventional (for now anyway). I would still use synthetic regardless of the price. But I don't change oil as often as you.
1) Synthetics typically have lower volatility, which is pretty much mandatory for DI engines for which the big problem is excessive volatilization of motor oil that causes intake deposits.
2) 3-4k intervals in a DI engine is a very poor idea because of excessive exposure to volatilized motor oil products.
So dino + short intervals is, in my belief, literally the worst thing you could do to a DI engine. To prevent DI intake deposits, you need the combination of the long(er) drain intervals and the low volatility oil.
Originally Posted by pitzel
1) Synthetics typically have lower volatility, which is pretty much mandatory for DI engines for which the big problem is excessive volatilization of motor oil that causes intake deposits.
2) 3-4k intervals in a DI engine is a very poor idea because of excessive exposure to volatilized motor oil products.
So dino + short intervals is, in my belief, literally the worst thing you could do to a DI engine. To prevent DI intake deposits, you need the combination of the long(er) drain intervals and the low volatility oil.
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*Follow you manual , use a synthetic oil with the oil type stamped on your oil fill cap ...
Never have I heard that. The manual says 3,750 miles in severe driving conditions. You are saying they are wrong?
Originally Posted by Whammo
Originally Posted by pitzel
1) Synthetics typically have lower volatility, which is pretty much mandatory for DI engines for which the big problem is excessive volatilization of motor oil that causes intake deposits.
2) 3-4k intervals in a DI engine is a very poor idea because of excessive exposure to volatilized motor oil products.
So dino + short intervals is, in my belief, literally the worst thing you could do to a DI engine. To prevent DI intake deposits, you need the combination of the long(er) drain intervals and the low volatility oil.
Originally Posted by Whammo
Originally Posted by pitzel
1) Synthetics typically have lower volatility, which is pretty much mandatory for DI engines for which the big problem is excessive volatilization of motor oil that causes intake deposits.
2) 3-4k intervals in a DI engine is a very poor idea because of excessive exposure to volatilized motor oil products.
So dino + short intervals is, in my belief, literally the worst thing you could do to a DI engine. To prevent DI intake deposits, you need the combination of the long(er) drain intervals and the low volatility oil.
required lubes must be supplied FREE, recommend is just that. lower priced synthetics are predominantly group III oils aka highly refined CRUDE oil NOW legally sold + advertised as synthetic. for the minimal xtra cost the cheap synthetics are a no brainer IMO
Originally Posted by pitzel
"Severe" is an extremely limited subset of operation rarely experienced in a typical passenger car.
Originally Posted by pitzel
And fuel dilution is less of a problem than its made out to be
Originally Posted by hallstevenson
Originally Posted by pitzel
"Severe" is an extremely limited subset of operation rarely experienced in a typical passenger car.
Originally Posted by pitzel
And fuel dilution is less of a problem than its made out to be
Originally Posted by pitzel
1) Synthetics typically have lower volatility, which is pretty much mandatory for DI engines for which the big problem is excessive volatilization of motor oil that causes intake deposits.
Originally Posted by Whammo
Originally Posted by Eddie
NO is the correct answer, but with today's lower synthetic prices and your doing your own oil changes, why not? Ed
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Originally Posted by Whammo
My understanding is that synthetics are great for long OCI's but if you run short OCI's there's no need to use them. I have a DI engine that requires oil changes ever 3-4k because of the driving conditions I have. Is there any reason not to use conventional/blend in my situation? In the dead of winter I use synthetic because of the extreme cold but I'm talking about spring/summer/fall now.
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
Originally Posted by Whammo
Originally Posted by Eddie
NO is the correct answer, but with today's lower synthetic prices and your doing your own oil changes, why not? Ed
I've also read that synthetics are not as seal friendly but not sure how true that is ... I'm using dino in 2 older cars and syn in 2 newer cars. We'll see how the seals hold up since I keep at least one of the old cars when we buy a new one.
Originally Posted by OilUzer
I've also read that synthetics are not as seal friendly but not sure how true that is ... I'm using dino in 2 older cars and syn in 2 newer cars. We'll see how the seals hold up since I keep at least one of the old cars when we buy a new one.
I don't think it will matter but the price difference is so small I'd go with at least a syn blend. Which probably is not much different than a conventional.
These frequent changes are the key. I like seeing my oil come out brown and not black as tar.
PYB 10w-30 is the only conventional I would consider using in my Hyundai's GDI engine and that is only because of that oil's low NOACK rating.
Originally Posted by Ignatius
PYB 10w-30 is the only conventional I would consider using in my Hyundai's GDI engine and that is only because of that oil's low NOACK rating.
I'm a 3/3K guy. Always have been,always will be. Oil is cheap,cars aren't. And I use synth.
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