Any harm in using thicker oil?

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My Toyota Tacoma uses 0W-20 engine oil, a VERY light viscosity. It's great for very cold temps, but what about nominal temps? I want to change to a 5W-30 as a better warm temp oil (80 degree summers, 40 degree winters) up here in western Washington (Seattle area). It's a 2017 model still under warranty. What say you guys - would I be doing harm? What about my warranty - would Toyota revoke it?
 
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Stick with what your warranty says until it up. looks like you're what a little over a year away. Then I'd go with something like Mobil 1 0w-30.
 
If you're not sure you have 2 choices. Go with what your owners manual say's to use. Or go with what BITOG say's you should use. (10 different oils and viscosities by the time the thread ends).
 
Your climate is pretty mild, If it was hotter than small theoretical increase in wear protection might be more plausible. Consult your manual and see if it is acceptable for warranty purposes.
 
There'd be no harm.
In the very unlikely event of an internal engine failure while under warranty, there'd likely be no question of oil used causing a broken piece in a young engine.
If anyone wanted to know, you'd reply that you put Brand X 0W-20 in it and no UOA could show otherwise.
A better question might be what benefit you hope to derive in your very moderate climate.
 
Because of your mild winters, The 0W part won't have a lot of effect.

The 20 part is the same thing as 5W-20,
which has been keeping lots and lots and LOTS of Ford 4.6 engines alive
for multiples of 100,000's of miles - on EACH engine.

Cumulatively, those stats in the trillions of reliable miles.
Often while pulling very heavy trailers,..... in Texas heat.


I don't see how you could possibly be harming your engine.
 
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Originally Posted by Linctex
Because of your mild winters, The 0W part won't have a lot of effect.

The 20 part is the same thing as 5W-20,
which has been keeping lots and lots and LOTS of Ford 4.6 engines alive
for multiples of 100,000's of miles - on EACH engine.

Cumulatively, those stats in the trillions of reliable miles.
Often while pulling very heavy trailers,..... in Texas heat.


I don't see how you could possibly be harming your engine.

They back specced the 4.6 to 5W30 did they not?
 
Originally Posted by SHAMUS
I want to change to a 5W-30 as a better warm temp oil (80 degree summers, 40 degree winters) up here in western Washington (Seattle area).


That's mild, really mild.

And in reality, even if ambient or peak was 90, 100, or 120F, it's still low compared to the combustion temps (thousands of degrees), internal engine temps (190-250F), etc.

There's likely a caveat somewhere that discusses going up a grade if heavily loaded. That's a good point - time at temperature is a key element to longevity, and it's the ti,e that your (making up a number) 300hp engine is loaded at 200 hp versus 0-50 hp. Note it only takes around 50-60hp to cruise at 60 mph down the highway.

Why? Because when you're needing 50 hp of propulsion, you're making 100hp of heat. When you're sustained higher loading due to towing or whatnot, then your making 200hp,for propulsion, but making 400hp of heat. Big difference when a decent percentage of the heat goes into the oil.

Having a slightly higher or lower delta t is fairly minimal compared to the sustained loading thst is expected. 40-80 is ideal conditions and the OEM defined viscosity will serve you just fine. If you'll be highly loaded for long periods in the heat, then a grade or two up may well be justified.
 
Originally Posted by billt460
If you're not sure you have 2 choices. Go with what your owners manual say's to use. Or go with what BITOG say's you should use. (10 different oils and viscosities by the time the thread ends).


This.
 
0w-30 M1 will take you from -35*f to over 100*f , 5W-30 will tale you from -30*f to over 100*f. .
 
Originally Posted by Bud
Originally Posted by billt460
If you're not sure you have 2 choices. Go with what your owners manual say's to use. Or go with what BITOG say's you should use. (10 different oils and viscosities by the time the thread ends).


This.
BITOG tradition is to ignore the specs in the manual and run something thicker. Preferably a straight grade or 20W50 if you want to eat at the cool table.
 
Originally Posted by maxdustington
Originally Posted by Bud
Originally Posted by billt460
If you're not sure you have 2 choices. Go with what your owners manual say's to use. Or go with what BITOG say's you should use. (10 different oils and viscosities by the time the thread ends).


This.
BITOG tradition is to ignore the specs in the manual and run something thicker. Preferably a straight grade or 20W50 if you want to eat at the cool table.


LOL. That does seem to be the trend around here. Interesting thing is when most members on here are recommending thicker oils, most don't seem to drive anything newer than 2012. I get it with older engine designs before 2000 but I guess some old habits are hard to kill.
 
Originally Posted by crazy_raccoon
Originally Posted by maxdustington
Originally Posted by Bud
Originally Posted by billt460
If you're not sure you have 2 choices. Go with what your owners manual say's to use. Or go with what BITOG say's you should use. (10 different oils and viscosities by the time the thread ends).


This.
BITOG tradition is to ignore the specs in the manual and run something thicker. Preferably a straight grade or 20W50 if you want to eat at the cool table.


LOL. That does seem to be the trend around here. Interesting thing is when most members on here are recommending thicker oils, most don't seem to drive anything newer than 2012. I get it with older engine designs before 2000 but I guess some old habits are hard to kill.


I'm using 5W30 in a 2016 Pentastar engine. I'm sure I'm not alone.
wink.gif
 
My dad uses 5w30 conventional in his Pentastar V6. It's got over 300K on it and runs fine. And to boot it runs OCOD filter cartridges.
grin2.gif
 
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