Any comments on Pennzoil High Mileage?

Not open for further replies.
Jul 15, 2003
So far I've been using Pennzoil 5W 30 and had no problems. Over the past 2 weeks (yes, 2 weeks!) I've been putting in a remote starter and putting my engine through **** trying to get it to work. I bet it's seen more starts over these few days than it will the rest of the year!

I'm going to give it some fresh oil in the next couple weeks (been 3 months, but only 1,000 miles). I was thinking about going with Pennzoil High Mileage. Does the HM formula have moly in it like the Purbase? Any advantages to using it?

The engine is a 2.4L Twin Cam (Grand AM) it sees frequent 4,500RPM shifts due to my heavy foot.
It has just under 83,000 miles (75K of which were highway/freeway).

Synthetics don't really interest me as I only drive the car about 3K-4K a year and I do 3-4 oil changes regardless of milage.
Great oil, especially considering it's ~$2 per quart price.

Use the search feature on this forum for other comments already made.

--- Bror Jace
I think the high mileage oils are an excellent alternative for someone who doesn't quite want to spend the extra on synthetics, but might want to stretch their oil intervals just a tiny bit, to 4 or 5k. These high mileage oils appear to hold their viscosity a bit better, plus they are slightly thicker to begin with, so they would help lower the wear on looser clearance engines, such as those engines with higher mileage or some of the domestic V6s and V8s.
I tried the Vavoline Max Life, and didn't like it on my older 175K car. Motor seem to make more noise on start up. Found out later through this site that Vavoline is TIGHT with their moly. This is just an opinon, but that car has had Pennz. purebase all it's life and that oil had lots of moly in it. I think the engine "got to liking" the moly and when it got some oil without it, it "spoke" to me (geesh, sounds like a religious experience). Point is, I feel that all older engines need moly. Since you don't drive your vehicle a lot, get all the protection you can. It just works better. The HM pennz. does have a nice chuck of moly in it too, along with boron. Can't go wrong. If you look at UOA and VOA's, you can see what BJ is talking about. That oil is about as close as your going to get before stepping over to the synthetic lines. Especially the price. You might want to look at Pennz. Long Life. That stuff has a butt load of additives as well, but it's a little thicker than the average bear, 15W-40.

[ August 22, 2003, 09:58 AM: Message edited by: Schmoe ]
OK I did some searching and alot of reading....... I guess here's the question I really want to know.....

Is spending the extra .42 per quart useless since my engine doesn't consume any oil between changes? Will the extra esters/higher base stock help my engine anyway? IE... Keep the seals in good shape?

I can understand spending $2 a quart for motor oil, but I really can't justify $3+ on a 6 year old car.
There were some issues with that years ago, but to my understanding, those kinks have been worked out. Usually the HM oils will have just a little bit of the "seal" swellers in there, but very little and will not effect the gaskets or seals. One thing I have learned, and this is a generalization, you get what you pay for. If your really concerned about the quality of oil, spend the few extra bucks. There are some members here that use synthetics in their 10 plus year old cars, even in mowers. It's your choice and that is what this board does, helps you draw conclusions as to your choice and let you decide. I know I've changed my mind on my past oil preferences. In your case, I would get the "good" stuff and change out maybe once per year given the amount of miles you put on it. In that way, ironically, your costs would go down to what your are currently paying. Try the Mobil 1 5W-30, it's 18.88 for 5 quarts. That oil will hold up for one year based on your useage.
If your worried about the oil setting up during those non-use periods, go with a diesel oil or a long life oil. Delo and Delvac have been the winners in that department. Oils are loaded with additives and were designed to fight off all the crud and "nasties" that diesel engines produce. A lot of inboard boat owners use these because a boat will set up for about 6 months during the winter. I use Pennz. LL on the boat for that reason alone.

[ August 22, 2003, 11:16 AM: Message edited by: Schmoe ]
In Arkansas, at ~4,000 miles/year:
1. M1 10w30 should be fine year-round. Available at WM for $18.88/5 qt jug.
2. Changing oil once a year should do it, so long as it's run till warmed up every few weeks.
3. A single, decent quality filter should be OK. If you're worried about the SuperTech at 6 months, consider spending ~$2-$3 more for, say, a Wix. At 4K/yr, I think the ST will be just fine.

And for that matter, at ~4K/yr, you could probably stick with regular PZ (5 or 10w30), the ST filter, yearly changes, & the car will still do well.

IMO, maybe best of all: If you're ever near Texarkana, go a few miles east of town on Hwy 82, & get some BobZoil(Schaeffer Supreme 7000) from Tim. That would be cheaper than the M1, & with your usage, would *Easily* last for a full year.
Dude, you got to get over the 3K thing!!!
It has taken me about a year to come to grips with that. But, to prove to myself, I took UOA's and learned for myself that post 3K is a reality. Like you, I was inbred with 3months/3K oil changes but, I proved it to myself that it is possible to go on longer with dino juice and syn's even longer. Go ahead, TAKE THE PLUNGE

Where your living, 10W will work for you, don't get that cold, just like here in Oklahoma. I've ran 10W for years, but switched when we got a new Honda. I felt that the engine would benefit at start up with a 5W than a 10W.

[ August 22, 2003, 03:50 PM: Message edited by: Schmoe ]
OK It keeps on going back to the synthetic thing.

Since I might be getting a better paying job I might just give Mobil 1 a try. Do you think I could get by with a 10W 30 instead of 5W 30? It rarely gets down below 20F here in the winter.

Also, I use SuperTech (champion) filters.... will these hold up for 6 months?

There's no way I could go longer than 1 year though, that just wouldn't feel right.

for motor oil, I really can't justify $3+ on a 6 year old car.

lol, German Syntec in my woman's 17 year-old Coupe GT. I am still changing it at the manufacturer's ~7500 miles, just with AWESOME oil.

Once-a-year is the ideal, adjust you oil quality for that interval. All you need for the miles you drive in a year is Chevron Supreme. Anything more is a waste except Penzoil hi-mi.

If you are truely insane, a "summer" fill of heavier oil and a "winter" lightweight fill should meet most people's O.C.D. needs.

[ August 24, 2003, 02:51 AM: Message edited by: TSoA ]
Not open for further replies.