Any bad UOA's with pennzoil platinum??

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Originally Posted By: chevrofreak
Well, those are the two temperatures oil are most commonly tested at. I wish they would do 0C, but, they don't.

But the point is, if they spec 10W-30 for a VCT car in Australia, where 10W-60 molasses is commonly used in everything else, don't you think there might be a darned good reason for it?


AFAIK, common-specs for Ford's down there are 10w30, 15w40/5w40, with 5w50/15w50/20w50 also being used as well.

Would be nice to hear from an Aussie with a VCT 3-Valve.
 
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
. . .
I didn't notice any sluggishness going from M1 5w20 to M1 5w40.
. . .


Well, I certainly noticed my engine get "unsluggish" when I changed back to PP 0w-20 (just under 8.5 cSt) from an experimental fill of GC (just over 12.1 cSt), about two weeks ago.

You thick oil guys just can't have it both ways. You proclaim the virtues of "thicker" oils, while denying any of the predictable consequences of using the stuff. That same "protective thickness" you believe in simply WILL require more effort from the engine to overcome. The laws of physics don't turn themselves on and off at the pleasure of the thick oil lover. . .
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Originally Posted By: jstutz
so has anyone seen any bad UOA's using PP?


How dare you actually refer back to the original question. . .

But since you had the nerve to ask, my response, is "no, I have not, especially so with the 20 wt PP products..."
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Originally Posted By: chevrofreak
And we already know that the difference between a 5W-20 and a 10W-30 is pretty small compared to the difference between a 10W-30 and a 5W-40.

A 5W-40 can be 50% higher cSt at both 40C and 100C than the 10W-30. The 10W-30 will be significantly thinner at all temperatures than the 5W-40.


Very true. When taking the leap I took, 8.5 to 12+ cSt, and then back, there won't be any doubt but that viscosity has an driver-observable impact on how an engine performs.
 
Originally Posted By: ekpolk
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
. . .
I didn't notice any sluggishness going from M1 5w20 to M1 5w40.
. . .


Well, I certainly noticed my engine get "unsluggish" when I changed back to PP 0w-20 (just under 8.5 cSt) from an experimental fill of GC (just over 12.1 cSt), about two weeks ago.

You thick oil guys just can't have it both ways. You proclaim the virtues of "thicker" oils, while denying any of the predictable consequences of using the stuff. That same "protective thickness" you believe in simply WILL require more effort from the engine to overcome. The laws of physics don't turn themselves on and off at the pleasure of the thick oil lover. . .
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Every application is different though. I have 260HP out of a relatively lazy 5.4L V8. It is also hauling around 6,100lbs. With all that weight, I'm sure it would be quite a bit more difficult to discern the fraction of a HP or slight decrease in rotating assembly acceleration that MIGHT take place due to the heavier oil.
 
To OP: PP good. Haven't seen a bad UOA with a mechanically sound and well maintained engine.

To everyone else, start your own thread if you want to rant off topic!
 
On the thick and thin thing...........what I notice is thin oils run better on a cold engine while thick is sluggish,BUT once the engine is good and hot,thin oils then run sluggish and thick run much smoother and seem to give your engine more power,maybe the thicker oils produce better piston/ring seal therefore increasing compression? I`ve noticed that with every car I`ve ever owned.
 
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Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
maybe the thicker oils produce better piston/ring seal therefore increasing compression? .


It is counterintuitive but you are 180° off the mark. Thinner oils actually provide better top ring seal.
 
Originally Posted By: BuickGN
Originally Posted By: Hermann
Originally Posted By: ekpolk
Originally Posted By: Hermann
Originally Posted By: glxpassat
Although 20w seems to be doing pretty well, I see using a 30w as buying yourself a little insurance. Some folks think insurance is worth the cost, others like to live on the edge...


The cost of insurance using 5w-30 vs, the 5-20 is about 1.5 MPG in my Tacoma. Plus the motor feels more sluggish, and less willing to rev freely.


And let's not forget that the "sluggishness" you describe is, with little doubt, your engine trying to tell you something important...
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This is my last fill of my FAR 30 wt. It's clear to me that the VVT-i system has been setup for lighter weights. Going from a 8.5 cst to a 10.8 cst is not what this engine wants. 85% of my driving is in a full warm condition. When the engine is fully warm it's just is not as perky. This is especially noticeable in 5th when rolling on the throttle above 60 MPH(2000 RPM). I find myself downshifting to 4th to get near the same response. When using cruise control on the highway and when climbing a incline it is obviously using more throttle. as the sound of the intake is louder. I drive the same route every day at the same speeds. Sometimes FAR really isn't. When purchased O'Reilly Auto did not include 5w-20 in their promos. Lesson Learned.


That's total [censored]. You're saying 2cst is costing you 20% in power (in reference to your downshifting comment). I don't buy it, it's all in your head. So what happens in winter when the oil runs 15 degrees colder when fully warm? That will make the same difference in viscosity. I'm surprised it will move out if it's own way.
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I never said it's costing me 20% of my power. What I'm saying is the the mileage is down about 6%. Right now this is my 3rd tank with the 5w-30 and the gas guage is at 1/4 of a tank, with 5w-20, I usually have 370 miles on the trip odometer, with the 5w-30 all 3 tanks have read right at 350 miles. These are my observations made twice now, the other fill of 5w-30 was my second OCI on the truck and yielded similar results. Am running the 30wt in the summer hopefully to reduce the effect of the thicker oil. My comment about downshifting to 4th, is to have AT LEAST the same throttle response that I was accustomed too. Now with 30 wt. in the sump I will have to concede that the engine is slightly quieter.
 
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
On the thick and thin thing...........what I notice is thin oils run better on a cold engine while thick is sluggish,BUT once the engine is good and hot,thin oils then run sluggish and thick run much smoother and seem to give your engine more power,maybe the thicker oils produce better piston/ring seal therefore increasing compression? I`ve noticed that with every car I`ve ever owned.


We live in very similar climates, and I don't see it. Both the Camry and the Avalon are running on PP 20 wts (0w and 5w respectively), and they're both purring like kittens, even in mid-day heat. The only thing I noticed going from GC to PP in the Camry is that maybe the Camry is ever so slightly louder at WOT than it was on GC, but not unpleasant, rough or raspy (doesn't make you want to throttle back because of the nature or character of the noise). I'd be inclined to say that's because previously, I was smothering it on syrup. I suspect you'd offer a different interpretation.
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Any bad uoa's on pp?any good uoa,s on mobile one? did you ever think with all the oil that is sold like valvolinecastrol,motorcraft,quaker state,why may i ask the only oils that uoa,s are done on it seems are mobil one pp and amsoil?LIsting after listing same oils over and over again.why don,t the other oils get tested? onlyblackstone would know about the never listed oils i will try to find out. when i do i will tell you.fishy....smell...
 
I am getting all confused reading these threads ...so if I wish to change my 140k 1.8L 2002 Corolla's oil from V-MaxLife 5W-30 to PP 5W-30, will the PP be thinner ...because I am in Fl and really don't have to worry about it getting cold here ...should I get a PP 10W-30 ....that's thicker, right?
 
Visc choice depends on your driving cycle. Do you go all short trips or long?

Normally for FL weather, I'd say 10w-30 unless you take short trips, then maybe 5w-30 might be a lil better. Consumption might be better on 10w-30, so you have to look at a lot of factors in order to *optimize* the oil selection.
 
Originally Posted By: FZ1
PP 5-20 works well for my six month 4500-5000 mile non UOA runs.


+1 me too...but I just did a UOA on my lexus after 60,000 miles of PP 5w30 and it was stellar. It is posted on here. very little wear.
 
Originally Posted By: Juhsga
I am getting all confused reading these threads ...so if I wish to change my 140k 1.8L 2002 Corolla's oil from V-MaxLife 5W-30 to PP 5W-30, will the PP be thinner ...because I am in Fl and really don't have to worry about it getting cold here ...should I get a PP 10W-30 ....that's thicker, right?


PP 5w30 57.5 cst @ 40c, 10.3 cst @ 100c
PP 10w30 63.4 cst @ 40c, 10.5 cst @ 100c

This data can be found in the Pennzoil site in a PDS.

PP 10w30 is thicker but only when you don't want it to be. 0.2 cst difference is negligible. Chances are that your car does not shear oil. Oil shearing is usually an issue when the oil lubes other things like a Turbo (very high temperatures) or on a Motorcycle when it lubes many things other than the engine.

If you want to baby your car, consider a 0w-40
 
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