Antifreeze types...would like to use just one in all my rigs

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Time for me to work on our vehicles. I prefer to keep things as simple as I can so I am looking at the easiest way to change coolant without having 3 different kinds of coolant in my garage (fearing one of my sons or wife will accidentally use the wrong one in the wrong vehicle).

2015 Jeep Wrangler (manual calls for OAT)
2005 Jeep Wrangler (manual calls for HOAT)
2011 Chrysler 200 (manual calls for HOAT)
1988 Jeep Grand Wagoneer (manual calls for Ethylene Glycol)
1983 Jeep Scrambler (manual calls for Ethylene Glycol)

Now, if I flush all the systems and replace with standard Prestone (or whatever brand) will this work? Will it void any warranties? Will it create any other issues? It would be nice to run just one coolant; but, not if it decreases my engine life or creates other issues.
 
I just use the yellow universal stuff in everything. Has yet to cause an issue. In some cases... Avoids issues. Like dexcool turning to dexsludge or the toyota coolant chewing the water pump gaskets.

Can't speak to warranties
 
Originally Posted By: SnowDrifter
I just use the yellow universal stuff in everything. Has yet to cause an issue. In some cases... Avoids issues. Like dexcool turning to dexsludge or the toyota coolant chewing the water pump gaskets.

Can't speak to warranties


I've never heard of Toyota coolant chewing water pump gaskets. Isn't it silicate free, anyway? Got any links?
 
What do your owner's manuals say? Is a certain coolant "required" or just "recommended"?

IMO all coolants suppress corrosion due to dissimilar metals and provide protection from freezing.

Using the green stuff will require more frequent changes.
 
JD Cool-Guard II in everything. It last 6 years, can be checked with test strips, they have a replenishing additive and its the lowest erosion of metals you can get. Gas, diesel, iron, aluminum, brass, copper, lead solder it doesn't matter its harmless to everything.

 
Originally Posted By: Brian553
Originally Posted By: SnowDrifter
I just use the yellow universal stuff in everything. Has yet to cause an issue. In some cases... Avoids issues. Like dexcool turning to dexsludge or the toyota coolant chewing the water pump gaskets.

Can't speak to warranties


I've never heard of Toyota coolant chewing water pump gaskets. Isn't it silicate free, anyway? Got any links?


No links, just from personal experience. It was when toyota switched from a timing belt driven pump to an external water pump on the 4 cylinders in the corollas, camrys, etc. Would see a lot of water pump failures around 60k, tracked it down to some interaction with the coolant. Started selling coolant exchanges on them whenever they came in. Lo and behold, the customers that took us up on that offer didn't have the same failures.

Been a while since I looked into coolant chemistry and whatnot, but, speculating, there's something toyota uses in their coolant that forms these sharp crystals. Can see it on older yotas around the reservoir cap and whatnot. Grows some neat looking stuff. See the same buildup around the water pump gaskets. I think it just abrades them away
 
I always buy the yellow mix in anything anti-freeze and have never had any problems at all and just do drain and fills. I even use the yellow stuff in my Corvette and have not had any issues after 13 years. I do like to keep it clean looking and will not buy anything with brown discolored anti freeze.
 
Originally Posted By: twmattox
Time for me to work on our vehicles. I prefer to keep things as simple as I can so I am looking at the easiest way to change coolant without having 3 different kinds of coolant in my garage (fearing one of my sons or wife will accidentally use the wrong one in the wrong vehicle).

2015 Jeep Wrangler (manual calls for OAT)
2005 Jeep Wrangler (manual calls for HOAT)
2011 Chrysler 200 (manual calls for HOAT)
1988 Jeep Grand Wagoneer (manual calls for Ethylene Glycol)
1983 Jeep Scrambler (manual calls for Ethylene Glycol)

Now, if I flush all the systems and replace with standard Prestone (or whatever brand) will this work? Will it void any warranties? Will it create any other issues? It would be nice to run just one coolant; but, not if it decreases my engine life or creates other issues.


You could use G-05 for everything but the 2015.

I am not a big fan of tying to get down to one antifreeze for all vehicles. Use the proper stuff.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
JD Cool-Guard II in everything. It last 6 years, can be checked with test strips, they have a replenishing additive and its the lowest erosion of metals you can get. Gas, diesel, iron, aluminum, brass, copper, lead solder it doesn't matter its harmless to everything.




Not saying the test isn't valid, but being that it's listed on JD's site as part of their produce brochure; it gives me pause as to what is biases are. Long life, universal, and automotive can me anything, from anyone. It's not tested against a specific brand, and for all I know, they could have chosen the worst offenders to test against to make their product appear that much better
 
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Originally Posted By: SnowDrifter
Originally Posted By: Trav





Not saying the test isn't valid, but being that it's listed on JD's site as part of their produce brochure;


That is from JD. Do better research, do more research on the test, start by calling JD.
Hint, the test is based on industry averages 10 years ago.
Regardless of what they tested it against it has very low numbers, any idea what the numbers are for prestone, zerex, etc?
Are you willing to take the chance they are lower or go with something you know for a fact is low.

https://jdparts.deere.com/partsmkt/document/english/pmac/45190_ fb_lc_range_coolgard_II.htm

https://t.jdparts.deere.com/partsmkt/document/english/pmac/5686_fb_AntiFreezeCoolGard.htm
 
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I couldn't sleep at night if I just thought about what you are wanting to do. My brain would short circuit.
eek.gif
Crystals, sludge, water pump blades being eaten away, sand blasting, chunks of metal in my heater coil, etc.

Maybe a simple discussion telling your sons and your wife to not every add any coolant until after talking with you. Tell them it will ruin the engine. You know a family discussion?

Well, on second thought, that didn't work out too well in the Garden did it?
 
Originally Posted By: volk06
I'd look at peak global .

https://peakauto.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/PEAK_Global_FS_spec_sheet_2015_noback_LORES.pdf

+1 Given the question (one AF, complete flush) and vehicles listed, PGL would be my pick. Long service interval OAT available in a concentrate, no 2eha found in Dex or Dex clones like Prestone.

As for voiding warranties, looks like only one to consider, the 2015. Like PGL, FCA Mopar OAT is also a LL OAT with no 2eha. So PGL would be the only one that 'I' would consider running other than Mopar OAT.

Eliminating the 2015 from the mix, in addition to PGL, G05 would also be a good call for those other vehicles. Then run FCA Mopar OAT in the 2015, which shouldn't need service for awhile.
 
Well, guess I should somewhat fess up...it is not just my wife and sons I am worried about. Being colorblind and in a hurry I could easily grab the wrong one as well. And considering using the wrong one can cause huge issues I am concerned.

Regardless, I emailed Zerez the question and their response was to use the Valvoline Max Life coolant in all the rigs (HOAT with

All this research has me confused. The older Jeeps used IAT (Silicate iniorganic). Those rigs have been well flushed out and using the yellow Preston’s for over a decade (yellow Prestone claims to be HOAT). Does it really benefit anything for me to switch back to IAT?

The 2005 Jeep also has been flushed and running the yellow Prestone for at least 5-years which is what that rig calls for.

The 2011 is new to us and not sure about what fluid is in it; should be HOAT. But, will be getting a complete flush before long.

The 2015 is getting flushed in a week or so and the largest reason I am asking questions. It is the only one using OAT currently. If it gets a complete flush will switching to HOAT be an issue? Why did they switch from HOAT to OAT? Is one “better” than the other? If OAT is “better”, should I consider using for the other vehicles as well? I assume this all has something to do with the additive packages protecting the metals in the engine and longevity between flushes?
 
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