Another wheel hub assembly brand.

[2EHA]

bolt on hub assemblies are one of the lowest risk whitebox parts out there. there are examples of timken being the same as whitebox and in those cases you have scammed yourself

i’ve lost count of how many detroitaxle autoshack and other no name hubs i’ve slapped on vehicles without problem.

 

[Trav]

^ Then even less reason not to use 185 ft lb on a nut that size... unless someone knows of some alien tech this particular Jeep uses, that other Jeeps and other vehicles using similar size and design, don't.

Can anyone think of any other vehicle with >30mm axle nuts that only torques to 100 ft lb?

Sure, many are in the 100 lb.ft range in some cases this type of hub doesnt even use a cv axle or a nut. The ones on the front of my 07 Sky is one example, GM used to spec 185 lb.ft on older W bodies then went to 118 lb.ft when they had a lot of premature failures. Sometimes tighter is not better. One for a sky that can be used front or rear even though it is a rwd vehicle only. Obiously the center nut has nothing to do with keeping the wheel on or minimizing hub bearing play.

 

[D60]

I had to yank one of these out of an '02 D60 on a Ram 2500, just to service u-joints. I had to get jiggy with pullers and heat and air hammer and more.....I had serious reservations about pulling on the WMS as much as I was (and simultaneously forcing the axle into the carrier center pin) but once I finally won the war the bearing felt fine. I cleaned up all the marring at the mounting surfaces where I'd driven in air chisels and reused the bearing. It's been fine (shrug).

I don't know what my point is other than even without the stub shaft and nut "holding them together" they sure don't readily pull apart.

I've always wanted to chuck up a toasted unit bearing in my lathe and separate it just to see what's going on in there......

 

[Dave9]

I was under the impression that the torque spec was not (necessarily) to hold it all together (meaning bearing itself or wheel) but that due to it being a single point fastener, it's to keep it from coming loose, especially if not staked. Putting a new hub on a rusty shaft spline, it may not seat fully otherwise. If it comes loose then the axle shaft repetitively impacts it.

 

[D60]

I was under the impression that the torque spec was not (necessarily) to hold it all together (meaning bearing itself or wheel) but that due to it being a single point fastener, it's to keep it from coming loose, especially if not staked. Putting a new hub on a rusty shaft spline, it may not seat fully otherwise. If it comes loose then the axle shaft repetitively impacts it.

I dunno......on 2nd Gen Rams they're cotter-pinned-'n-castle-ated......I run 'em down "real tight" but not stalling-the-gun tight so I can save a couple ugga-duggas to line up the hole and the castle windows....once aligned I throw the pin in there and forget it

 

[Trav]

I was under the impression that the torque spec was not (necessarily) to hold it all together (meaning bearing itself or wheel) but that due to it being a single point fastener, it's to keep it from coming loose, especially if not staked. Putting a new hub on a rusty shaft spline, it may not seat fully otherwise. If it comes loose then the axle shaft repetitively impacts it.

All the center nuts I have seen are locked in place by some method, the shaft splines and housing should always be cleaned from any rust or debris before the new hub goes in and anti seize used on the housing and splines. It is common to tighten the nut higher then back it off and retighten to spec. Always use a new nut.

 

[clinebarger]

I was under the impression that the torque spec was not (necessarily) to hold it all together (meaning bearing itself or wheel) but that due to it being a single point fastener, it's to keep it from coming loose, especially if not staked. Putting a new hub on a rusty shaft spline, it may not seat fully otherwise. If it comes loose then the axle shaft repetitively impacts it.

Depends on the construction of the bearing I suppose, I know from doing 4wd to 2wd conversions on GMT800 Trucks & SUV's that the 4wd front wheel hubs will quickly fail once ran without the front CV's in place.
While some applications use the same bearing/hub assembly for both 2wd & 4wd.

 

[primetime]

Depends on the construction of the bearing I suppose, I know from doing 4wd to 2wd conversions on GMT800 Trucks & SUV's that the 4wd front wheel hubs will quickly fail once ran without the front CV's in place.
While some applications use the same bearing/hub assembly for both 2wd & 4wd.

Hi Chris,
Sent you a PM. No rush, several questions