Another Salvage Auction thread- this time a clean titled (repo) 2004 Lincoln Navigator

Won at auction earlier today a clean titled 2004 2WD Lincoln Navigator, 141k miles. Two owners, was repossession reference a vehicle title loan (Titlemax).

The Navigator just arrived at IAAI a few days ago. Not much time for people to find it, that at least is my guess. Paid $1650, with fees $2100. Only one other bidder, a Buyer from Fort Mills, SC. Reserve was $900. If it wasn't for him and me bidding against each other, this might have sold in the range of $300-$700 (before fees). This Navigator was local to me, but since it hit the auction as a late entry I could not inspect. Pictures indicated air shock issues. I was willing to bid up to $2300 before fees. Being located locally is a big cost savings, I liked the history report, and being in South Carolina its entire life meant a possibility no rust.

Picked up the Navigator one hour after the auction ended. I sensed the Navigator ran, so I drove my car instead of bringing out the truck and auto hauler. Sure enough, she started. Drove her home about 25 miles. Not so much fun with no shocks. Tires are worn so I was not worried about no shocks so much. The interior is clean for its age, much less wear and tear than typical, seats were pretty good for 17 year old leather. Nice to have the third row seating for when the grandkids come. Car seemed very comfortable less the shocks.

The exterior looks great. No issues anywhere from a hasty inspection. Underneath is very clean, does not seem to have ever been in snow or salt. Still has the original Michelin spare tire which is a real positive sign. Has a trailer hitch with a factory seven pin and four pin. Looks like the hitch has never been used.

Need to research the air shock system. All four shocks are completely empty, so suggesting a failed air compressor, and shock air compressors usually go bad from being run to much. So I need to identify what caused the compressor to fail.

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Looks like a clean one and what looks to be an easy fix. Arnott makes everything for this one.


 
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You are right it is not a 3V, but it should be a 4V actually. They don't list a 2V in the parts catalog for a 2004. 4V is even better as far as changing plugs, they are super easy.
I was pretty sure my buddies 03 had the 32v intech motor but couldn’t swear to it. Know it takes premium
 
I was pretty sure my buddies 03 had the 32v intech motor but couldn’t swear to it. Know it takes premium
Yes, has to fuel up the moment I left the auction lot. Gas door said 91+ octane.

Could not shop for premium. Bit the bullet. $3.89 per gallon. Sam's Club was $2.99 early in the week for premium. Pump auto stopped at $100. ouch.
 
It appears you did well on the buy. I would like to see a picture of it all detailed with the interior cleaned as well. I would eliminate the air shocks and replace them with regular shocks. Those air ride suspensions are very troublesome after high mileage is obtained and you are better off eliminating it. The 5.4 engines are very good if maintained properly. I had a 1999 Ford Expedition that I bought with 40,000 miles in 2002 and drove it 10 years without any problems. I didn't even have to change the plugs.
 
It appears you did well on the buy. I would like to see a picture of it all detailed with the interior cleaned as well. I would eliminate the air shocks and replace them with regular shocks. Those air ride suspensions are very troublesome after high mileage is obtained and you are better off eliminating it. The 5.4 engines are very good if maintained properly. I had a 1999 Ford Expedition that I bought with 40,000 miles in 2002 and drove it 10 years without any problems. I didn't even have to change the plugs.
Thanks. I am trying to rebuild the air suspension- simply because I haul a heavier trailer and research suggests the air shocks in the rear do well adjusting height with tongue trailer weight.

Fixed part "A" of the air suspension. The suspension would report "air suspension error" and do nothing. I thought it was the air suspension compressor, but after replacing the compressor and relay, still nothing. Traced it down to a bad ride height sensor. If the suspension sees a bad signal from a sensor, the system shuts down and won't do anything. This error did not through a DTC.

Now that I have the air suspension error fixed, time to move on to part "B" of the air suspension. It still does not kick on. The reason it the vehicle has to see doors open and close to allow the suspension to raise or lower. I discovered I have no power locks, no auto headlights, etc. Traced it to clogged sunroof drains letting water into the interior. This typically causes the fuse box to cause havoc.

Went to the pic and part this morning and picked up a fuse box. While I was at the pic a part, picked up a carpet. Pulling the carpet from a Navigator was great training for pulling the carpet on the Navigator I am working in. It rained 16 straight hours in Columbia, the interior of my newly acquired Navigator is wet. I am not happy, but it is ok as I was able to trace where the water was coming in from (sunroof drains).

Attached is a picture of the carpet I pulled earlier today at the pic a part. And the inside of the 2006 Navigator I pulled it from. The Navigator I pulled it from was very clean inside and out. My guess is the 5.4 3V had a catastrophic issue, and off to a pic a part. The frame, undercarriage looked brand new.
 

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When I picked up the car the air shock system didn't work. Later I found out the electronic door locks, auto headlamps did not work. Also the key left in the vehicle would not beep, and the radio would stay on for ten minutes after exiting the vehicle. And the interior lights would not come on when opening a door.

Traced the following to corroded splices in the interior wiring harness that were soaked in water. Interior lights not coming on, electronic locks were fixed bypassing the corroded patch. Still have to fix the lights not coming on when the door is opened and radio stays on for ten minutes. That problem is likely an additional corroded wiring junction, or both the front door switches are bad.

I went to the pic a pull, and pulled an entire wiring harness for a like Navigator. Most of the ends were cut off. This allows me to keep the same color when patching a wire. I also love having a huge amount of wire of different gauges available. I think the wiring weighed about 50 lbs. It is about 20 feet long. Cost $39, plus about a hour to remove from the donor Navigator.

The air suspension will not wake up at all unless the doors are being properly recognized as being open or shut. This car is more work in areas than I expected. But I am glad.... I was looking at flooded W222 from NY/NJ, this has distracted me from being an active bidder on those MBs.
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Awesome! I would not be able to diagnose those problems on my own. The floor is super clean and the carpet really isn't that bad for the age of the vehicle. I would clean that carpet after it is re-installed in the vehicle. Automotive carpets tend to shrink and not fit correctly if cleaned and dried outside of the vehicle. Ha! you sure like those flooded MB's...I get scared thinking about something like that but it appears you are very good at what you do. I can barely wire a light switch in a house or a ceiling fan lol!
 
Awesome! I would not be able to diagnose those problems on my own. The floor is super clean and the carpet really isn't that bad for the age of the vehicle. I would clean that carpet after it is re-installed in the vehicle. Automotive carpets tend to shrink and not fit correctly if cleaned and dried outside of the vehicle. Ha! you sure like those flooded MB's...I get scared thinking about something like that but it appears you are very good at what you do. I can barely wire a light switch in a house or a ceiling fan lol!
Learning a lot on this Lincoln. Biggest lesson learned is MB "got it right" running multiple networks instead of a massive wiring harness through their interiors. On a MB, I would likely have been done with repairing damaged electrical from water. On the Lincoln (Ford), may take a lot of time- and solder. I would much rather repair a flooded MB than a flooded Ford.....
 
Yay flood vehicles then I get to pull the wining harness!!!!!!

Couldn't you find a $2,100 example of one local that wasn't underwater outside of a auction yard? They're not exactly pricey vehicles even in todays market.
 
Yay flood vehicles then I get to pull the wining harness!!!!!!

Couldn't you find a $2,100 example of one local that wasn't underwater outside of a auction yard? They're not exactly pricey vehicles even in todays market.
It was local, I was just "jonesing" for a project. Seems every first model vehicle I buy to rebuild ends up be a necessary training to learn what to buy in the future. My first w220 was a dog, next three were awesome. My first w221 was a dog, next one was a gem,...
 
Thought to add, my first w221 the "white 221" was a dog and a poor purchase on my part. But it is finished and is super clean and nice. Runs wonderful, looks really good. More work than I thought when I purchased it, but in the end--- the white w221 S550 turned out well.

A new lesson learned on auction repossession vehicles . Research the finance company that directed the repo. The Navigator was financed through TMX finance. But not really. TMX owns titlemax, a title lender that likely exploits desperate people. If you need to get a loan on your title through a retail loan shark, the vehicle likely has major neglect issues. I feel bad for anyone who needs a payday loan or title loan. That is a not nice industry, and I would guess they match the title "predatory lender".
 
Fixed the water in the interior yesterday. Clogged front sunroof drains. This vehicle was essentially a flood vehicle, sold as a repo vehicle... ugghhh.

I was able to clean the passenger front sunroof drain with aluminum welding rods from Harbor Freight. $9.99 (see picture) , I recommend these rods for this job and likely others. The driver's side I was unable to clean using the rod method. We have had lots of rain lately and that may have made the driver front drain to waterlogged to allow the rod to push fully through.

I pulled the bottom of the sunroof drain tube from the interior near the driver side firewall. Stuck the aluminum rod in it and plup... out came a three inch tube of muddy muck (see picture). Ran a full bottle of water through the top driver sunroof drain and all that came out was some dirt residue.

For people that park outside I thinking cleaning sunroof drains might be a good semi-annual preventative maintenance project.

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Finally fixed the electrical gremlins in the interior that prevented the air suspension from powering on. With water in the interior, the water was sitting in the wiring harness where the are factory designed wire splices on both the passenger side and the driver side. These splices corroded and prevented a proper signal to the VSM (security module). Lack of signal to the VSM prevented a laundry list of items to include doors not being sensed open or closed, radio not turning off when key off, no key left in ignition chime, no interior lights coming on when doors are opened, etc.

The Navigator needs to see a door opened then closed to allow the air suspension system to cycle. A safety feature. Mercedes also uses air suspension, but does see a need for doors closed to run the air suspension.

A few notes, had to replace the fuse box for corrosion, pulled from a 2006 pick a part donor. Many people suggest a 2006 box won't work in a 2004. A 2006 fuse box works just fine in a 2004. A 2006 VSM WILL NOT WORK, in a 2004. It will allow some things like keyless entry, but that is about it. Funny thing, the truck will run and drive with the VSM removed..... hmmmmm... The air suspension module also is not compatible from a 2006 to a 2004....

Deoxin is your friend working on a flood vehicle. I suggest everyone have at least to cans in their garage. Stuff is hard to find at retail. and the cans don't hold a lot. I feel great using this stuff on all these water exposed connectors.

I will permanently fix my wire issues later this week. I currently am using jumpers. I want to make sure I found any and all water coming into the interior (supposed to rain tonight). It will be some heavy time putting the interior wiring harness back to factory install, and don't want to do this until I validate all water issues are solved.

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With the electrical network finally up and running, I started on the dropped air suspension. If I wasn't planning on heavier towing with this vehicle, I would convert the suspension from air to coil in a heartbeat. Super easy conversion.

OBDII and FORSCAN do not show air suspension errors... ugghh... Only plus is the dash will show a air suspension error, but that error is very limited and will not show things like the air suspension system failing to inflate.

I had a air suspension error on the dash at power on. It was caused by a ride height sensor. The suspension has three, and OEM cost about $300 each. If the system does not see a certain output voltage from any one of the three ride height sensors The air system will not work. On this Navigator, the front left sensor was bad.

Went to pick a part, and grabbed all the Navigator sensors they had. I strongly suggest one makes with a paint pen the location the sensor was pulled from. They are different for each location, but beats be how. I did test this, and yes, a front right sensor needs to replace a front right sensor. Visual inspection shows all three are the same. I think I know why this is, but and going to refrain from commenting, but instead marking sensors with a paint pen is the solution.

Also replaced the air compressor with one pulled from pick a part. The compressor installed was the original and visually looked spent. The one I pulled from pick a part looked brand new. I speculate the compressor pulled from pick a part was brand new, and did not solve the suspension issue. That Navigator had nearly new coils installed.

After the compressor kicked on, rear shocks filled. Front shocks not filling. Right front shock trying and getting the bladder tight, but front left bladder just hissing air. Replaced the front left air suspension solenoid with a used one from pick a part. I installed new o rings, still leaking. Can't get front OEM struts anymore, so ordered new replacements from RockAuto. $375 each. Many new aftermarket replacements available for under $200 each strut, but doing some research seemed the Arnott product was the least likely to fail.

With no front air suspension, truck will sit for another week until the parts come arrive.

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Lots more work to go on this Navigator. Learning a ton, and made a huge mistake trying to fix the electrical gremlins by replacing modules instead of finding the common issues of deteriorated factory wire splices in the rocker panels. But learned a bunch from it and every module has some sign of oxidation, so I was able to refresh the contacts.

Still happy with this Navigator. When complete, I will have a nice hauler for four adults and two grandsons and all the gear/ luggage. No rust on this Navigator, real clean. This Navigator has not been maintained in seven years (estimate), so I have some work to do once mechanically running. I am thrilled it has the factory heavy duty tow package (appears to have never towed anything), and the 32v V-8. Body is in exceptional shape or such a neglected vehicle. Not a door ding, almost not bumper scrapes, etc.

I over payed about $1,000 for this Navigator. But that is life. I think this SUV will be real nice when done with all new front and rear suspension, and I will be at about $5,000. New I think these run about 70k. For something I will use a handful of times per year, I am happy with what I purchased. Yes I could of done better... but needed this one to learn about the Generation II Navigators.

I was able to purchase nearly new Michelin Defenders for $300. The existing tires are bald. Tires will be replaced after Arnott front air struts are installed

Washed her yesterday (except the tires/wheels as they are getting replaced) as the weather was 77 degrees.

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Friend of mine has this exact same car, year, and color combination as yours, as his wife's daily driver.

Rear air suspension failed, and he switched to coil springs. It was dirt cheap to do. Now it rides like a ford expedition lol.

These cars are nice, just pigs on gas if you daily drive them.
 
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Friend of mine has this exact same car, year, and color combination as yours, as his wife's daily driver.

Rear air suspension failed, and he switched to coil springs. It was dirt cheap to do. Now it rides like a ford expedition lol.

These cars are nice, just pigs on gas if you daily drive them.
I am prepared to replace the rear struts. Located the rear shocks at a great clearance price, and also located OEM rear airbags, still in the Ford box, deeply discounted. Wish I had a rear strut to study before I put new rear struts together.

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@GON , this is an awesome rebuild thread. Your electrical troubleshooting is excellent, and the no-fear approach to getting in there and just doing it is great. Thanks for posting all this. Maybe you overpaid, but I don’t think so? This is cleaning up very well and looks like it will be a useful vehicle for a time more.
 
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