Another 05 Toyota to the family

[ChiTDI]

But not mine. I just get the maintenance responsibility.
Highlander 2wd with a 4cylinder. Vehicle will be a mobile business office with about a 50/50 city highway mix. My thoughts on OCI was a couple dino changes while breaking in, and then Schaeffer's Blend 5w30 @5k intervals for the duration. Ideas?

 

[JohnBrowning]

What breakin? The only numbers that come down a lot of Toyota's is the silicone and sometimes the copper. The rest of the numbers are so low it is hardly what I would call a breakin. I would not worry about a blend will be fine from the get go! If you want to wait that is fine but not really needed!

 

[JohnBrowning]

The silicone is from the gasket sealants. THe copper only shows up on some models so I am not sure. I doubt that anyone would ever use copper in anything on purpose as a lube so it must be from either a pump bushing like oil pump or from the thrust washers/bearing. The copper is not as common as it is in GM engines and is no wear near as high either.

 

[dkryan]

Quote:

"5k seems too often, Im sure with 50% hwy,it can do near 10k OCIs easy."

Yes, it seems too often, but it's what Toyota requires as part of their maintenance schedule. Once I switch to synthetic on my Highlander, I'd like to go 6 months and whatever the mileage happens to be at that point. While the problem of the "sludge monster" has allegedly been solved, try and get Toyota to honor the warranty on 10K OCIs.

 

[Sam3]

John, Where do you think the silicon and copper is comeing from? Not that I'm worryed.

 

[JHZR2]

if you can get schaeffers, Im sure itll do great.l otherwise M1 shows good results with toyota engines. I doubt there will be much breakin.

5k seems too often, Im sure with 50% hwy,it can do near 10k OCIs easy.

JMH

 

[ex_MGB]

I agree with your plan.

 

[Ken4]

I dumped the break-in oil at 1000km and switched to full synthetic on the first oil change, for all my Toyotas. No dramas.

http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=001750#000000

 

[ChiTDI]

My thought on the break in with dino was to let the rings score the piston walls a bit.
Maybe I'm dating myself.
I leaned toward Schaeffer's over M1 because this chick lets the car idle for periods during her work route, and I'm concerned about M1 shearing in the heat - 5w30. warranty issue. Same as the 5k OCI.
Let me know if I'm missing anything else.

 

[Ken2]

Schaeffer highly recommends their oil FOR breakin. What happens is that high spots on the moving piece weld to high spots on the stationary piece, then they tear loose. The tears leave micro-cracks that will wear faster in the future. Schaeffer says that their oil helps the high spots to mash down rather than welding and tearing off.


Ken

 

[ChiTDI]

Thanks for the heads up guys. I did a change last night using pennz 5w30 @ 1000 miles. I'll start the Schaeffer's in another 1000 and go at 5k intervals. That filter was like a toy!
Capacity was 4 quarts according to the manual, but that filter couldn't hold more than a few ounces! What a joke!
BTW - I went with Purolator.

 

[LarryL]

Your toyota was 'broken in' when they drove it off the trailer and into the dealer's lot....all done. If the rings really don't seat then you will be greated by a red light on the dash very soon with you blow off all your oil. So if you find oil on the dipstick after a thousand miles you're in. If you use Schaeffers and change it on some reasonable basis you'll be able to drive it until your bored and want something new. If you follow a regular schedule you can deliver a very good vehicle to the person that buys when you're finished with it. I'd like to buy my next vehicle from one of the oil geeks on this forum.

 

[RedWolf4000]

Mobil 1 would be a better choice, even there non-full synthetic goes 7500 miles. Why not use M1 and change it every 10k, then when your off warranttee change it every 15k with M1 EP.

I mean, I used to change my DINO at 5k.

 

[Bill in Utah]

quote:

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Why not use M1 and change it every 10k

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Because Toyota states 5k or 6 month MAX on a oil change.

It's their engine until 60k miles if anything goes wrong. (unless you give them a reason to deny your claim...)


Take care, Bill

 

[ChiTDI]

Yeah that warranty is the issue, Redwolf, otherwise I'd go pure synthetic @10-15k if it were me. Sister-in-law's car.

 

[Steve S]

Go with factory oil change recommendations during the warranty just to avoid any possible problems. Don't make it easy for the manufacturer back out of the warranty claim.

 

[ChiTDI]

I agree.
Their engine, their warranty, their rules.

 

[21Rouge]

quote:

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Originally posted by Bill in Utah:

quote:

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Why not use M1 and change it every 10k

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Because Toyota states 5k or 6 month MAX on a oil change.

---

Are there not two maintenance schedules mentioned in the Toyota manual? One for 'severe' and another for easier driving habits/routines? The 6 month restriction seems reasonable but the 5k seems a bit harsh...wait..I bet that 5k is miles not kms right?

 

[Bryanccfshr]

quote:

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Originally posted by Boxgrover:

quote:

---

Originally posted by Bill in Utah:

quote:

---

Why not use M1 and change it every 10k

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Because Toyota states 5k or 6 month MAX on a oil change.

---

Are there not two maintenance schedules mentioned in the Toyota manual? One for 'severe' and another for easier driving habits/routines? The 6 month restriction seems reasonable but the 5k seems a bit harsh...wait..I bet that 5k is miles not kms right?

---

Yes it is miles. It used to be 6mo/7500 miles.
6 months 5000 miles. is now the Maximum under warranty.

 

[haley10]

quote:

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Originally posted by JohnBrowning:
The silicone is from the gasket sealants. THe copper only shows up on some models so I am not sure. I doubt that anyone would ever use copper in anything on purpose as a lube so it must be from either a pump bushing like oil pump or from the thrust washers/bearing. The copper is not as common as it is in GM engines and is no wear near as high either.

---

There are two excellent copper based assembly lubes we used and I have high praise for them. Japanese or American product. Great as an anti seize, esp. on dissimilar metal in extreme hi-temp applications. Don't discount the theory. There are some excellent copper assembly lubes. I keep a container for use on electrical bus bars and welding fixtures. Maybe not in engine applications, but very possible. You could be seeing a premium assembly lube and nothing to worry about.