Lol what is with the “Next” in your posts? You’ve described nothing so far that even hints to a link to a brand of oil in whatever failure you had, then you put “next” as if you’ve answered the question and are ready for the next. What exactly was the specific and verified contributing factor in the use of “nilla” Mobil 1?
As much as possible, you try to be "objective." Correct?
Apparently, you cannot read. I'm finished here for the day, and need to accomplish something meaningful. Have at it. You have more free time than this working manager.
Nah, subjective is the Bitog way....lol.As much as possible, you try to be "objective." Correct?
There is an Ignore feature for a specific cretin that inhabits this board. The only individual on all of the internet I have ever placed on ignore in 30 years. That is saying something. I love seeing this when that punk comment's: You are ignoring content by this member.
Yes let’s make this personal, that provides a deflection away from anything factual.
Some people on here just want to argue....because they are smarter than everyone else.I'll repeat. After several 3 to 4000-miles OCI's of vanilla M1 5W-30, accompanied by nominal Alaska summer, 60 to 70-degree day commuter highway driving (110-mile RT's between Anchorage and Palmer, Alaska), my L59 V8 was lost. For this engineer and technical systems manager, if I can remove certain important operating factors that MAY have led to an engine's premature demise, I will do so. It's completely understandable why I will not continue to use said product in my GM V8 engines going forward.
I'm sorry if you or others do not like this situation, and that others have had the same problem as noted here -- an engine destroyed with nilla M1 5W-30 in the sump. Blather all you want. It is what it is.
Thankfully, my second L59 V8 is behaving nicely, my GM half-ton truck now has nearly 200,000 hard Alaskan miles on it (roughly 65,000-miles on the new engine). It's a kept or maintained vehicle with little rust (no salt used here). My family enjoys this well-behaved and maintained 4WD pickup truck. I expect another 100,000 miles from her.
My last GM product, a 1993 Olds Bravada with the W-code 4.3L, ran 285,000 hard Alaskan miles before I sold it to a teenager to destroy. Let's see... that SUV was NEVER garaged either. It started every winter morning totaling a cumulative 10-years in the cold (lived on Valvoline Durablend most of its life). That wonderful Bravada also made 7 each 3,500-mile trips up and down the Alaska-Canada Highway (the Al-Can), between the Lower-48 states and Anchorage. Two of those 7 trips were accomplished in the dead of winter, with temps of -20 to -35 degs F... driven through for hundreds of miles along the way (really cold wx between Whitehorse (Yukon Territory) and the Glennallen, Alaska areas).
Let's see your Jeep/RAM products last that long.
Next...
The "people" I'm referring to is a broad spectrum. The "people" could be the design engineers or folks that put your engine together.
I can read just fine, thanks. That’s what I’m waiting for is to read the correlation you had between the failure and the oil brand.
Saying a bunch of dudes had the same issue doesent nessesarily prove your point. Ive been in forums where specific platform had cams with porosity/voids issue and lobes would flatten. So once you get past the I had M1 in mine when the cam went byebye you may find not every single case was a specific oil brand involved. If your cam broke then why don't all the rest of the M1 users cams break? The nature of newer powerplants has them using 0w-xx which IMO reduces safety margins for oil pressure needlessley in hunt for fractional CAFE gain. I put M1 15-50 in all my stuff including supercharged car and motorcycle with zero issue and no clackety clack like 0w-xx. Id think those would surely blow up if M1 was a dog.
