An apology... off topic but in some ways related

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Jul 22, 2008
Californ I/A
I was banned here a few months ago. As most people would be, I was angry and defiant. Then I cooled down a bit and started to reread my posts that I had made and had a tendency to make over the last 3-4 months.

Geez, I was an angry person. The bitterness overflowed like what your dipstick looks like after visiting Iffy Lube. Perhaps it had a lot to do with my job situation as well as a really unfortunate life incident. I dunno, but just the same, I was an [censored].

I'm back now, thanks to the kindness and mercy of the administrators. I look forward to being able to contribute posts that once again elicit massive debate and questions of why didn't I use the search function??

But honestly...

Dino or synthetic in a rotary?

Thanks for your understanding... Its nice to be back.
In a rotary? Why vegetable oil, of course!

Wait a week then start a thread on how Mobil oil is junk...


Welcome back fellow oil-aholic!
Dino. And from what I understand with rotaries,they`re designed to consume oil,so be sure and regularly check your oil level.
You can use synthetic but that is like giving money away. Matter of fact you can give some to me. I have no problem taking money if someone offer's it to me.
Thanks for the welcome back.. Its good to BE back.. now as far as rotary engines go.. yes they are designed to burn oil, they HAVE to burn it because it gets injected into the combustion chamber as a lubricant for the apex seals.

Now, if I remember correctly, Synthetic oil is a much purer oil than Dino and has less additives, VI's etc. So when it burns, it SHOULD be a much cleaner burn ie.. less deposits.

Now I know that the flash point on a synthetic oil is much higher than a Dino oil, but I would think that the internal temperature of the combustion chamber is much much higher than either dino OR synthetic.

On the old Rx-7's I would never use synthetic for the metering system is designed to pump a quart of oil per 1K miles as the overlapping of the exhaust and intake chambers usually ensured that quite a bit of the oil that was injected got sucked right back out. The RX-8 does not have overlapping intake and exhaust chambers and so does not have to have that much oil injected.

This might also be a reason why the older rx7 motors way outlasted the rx8's as there was much more lubrication. But due to smog laws, the new design was necessary.

Many people recommend Royal Purple as it is ASH free which supposedly is a major consideration for leaving deposits.
I don't remember you or anything, but a lot of people come here pretty pumped-up for their previous learning experiences. A lot of miss-guided notions leading to self-defensiveness. I don.t know if oil itself was the root of your issues here, or if it was personality conflicts. Either way, I'm glad to see you worked it out. I, myself, had a substantial time-out issued by Tony. It worked out for the best. This Forum is very much on an even-keel.
What year is your rotary?

Originally Posted By: tig1
Welcome back. I'm pretty sure M1 doesn't recomend their synt oils in rotary engines.

I recall reading a while back on their site (maybe in the 1990s) that Mobil1 said it was fine to use 15W-50 in the (older) Mazda rotaries...
Welcome back.

The RX8 in my family (oldest son's car) gets 5W30 YBP at 3000 mile intervals and Super Tech 2 cycle @ 1:500 in the gas.

The short intervals are important to the car since you just get half the oil out of the car at each change.

I'd feel comfortable running any of the dino derived synthetics like PP or Castrol Syntec in the car, but it's certainly overkill with my change interal.
Originally Posted By: peterdaniel
Now, if I remember correctly, Synthetic oil is a much purer oil than Dino and has less additives, VI's etc. So when it burns, it SHOULD be a much cleaner burn ie.. less deposits.

The problem is getting the synthetic to burn completely.
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