Amsoil vs. Motorguard

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The Amsoil bypass filter has worked for me, keeping insoluables at
I've heard people say that TP filters actually keep the oil "new looking", which the Amsoil does not. So the question is: is there a significant difference between the lubrication ability of "clean looking oil" and "analytically clean oil".
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What we really need is somebody to take oil from a vehicle (such as a diesel) that's been run till end-of-life and is real nasty.

Then, run some of that through an amsoil filter and some of it through a motorguard.

Send all 3 (unfiltered, amsoil, motorguard) in for sampling to see what different it would make.

I'm SURE people here would cough up some dough to pay for the analysis, but what about the motorguard unit and the amsoil unit, and who would do the test and with that oil? Would the units have to be purchased or could they be "on loan" from suppliers or members or whatever?

I'm just tossing a (stupid) idea out there.
 
quote:
Originally posted by olympic:

I've heard people say that TP filters actually keep the oil "new looking", which the Amsoil does not. So the question is: is there a significant difference between the lubrication ability of "clean looking oil" and "analytically clean oil".
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I don't use a bypass filter. If I did decide to get one, the feel good effect of clean looking oil would be a consideration.
 
Jon, I found what looks like a test for bypass filter http://www.oilguard.com/Other/LabTest.php
Looks simple and effective, could be done for Amsoil and MotorGuard, too.

Just looking good is not good enough, need some real information. The fact that this third company steps up with testing right on their web site is interesting.

Once performance is established then you just need to figure out costs and service methongs along with installation.
 
Yep ..the Amsoil doesn't keep it looking "new" but it didn't do bad on my jeep. The stuff stayed translucent ..acquired a deepening strawberry-honey color to it. Kept the insolubles low, as you said.

I think the feature of the Amsoil over the TP types is longevity. You just can't get the mileage out of the TP or PT filters. They are superior in trapping particles ..but have a shorter life.

As far as I'm concerned, the Amsoil is what I'd use unless someone comes up with a TP that will last my entire OCI (15k probably). I'm playing with another custom filter that a fellow member led me to. I hope that this allows a long term bypass filter.

Naturally ..that's just me
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Those Amsoil "stubbies" are a steal compared to a Frantz.
 
The testing I am looking for is that standard first pass, second pass test modified for BP filters, and if possible with an ISO standard contamination. You'd think it was simple for a manufacturer/distributer to do if they are selling a lot of filters. And I know this is out there, but I would like to see the tests repeated after, say 3000 miles.

Oh, congrats on the possibility of a new job. Jobs are a good thing to have.
 
Olympic, you have a point. Testing is the only way to get an idea of what is going on. So you have some actual data on the Amsoil filter. I would like to know more. I don't think 'pretty' has anything to due with performance.

I guess, for T.P. the only thing I keep hearing is that it looks good and 'has worked for me'. How much difference does it make, when you choose different brands of T.P., or tear off more or less before putting it in the can?

A long time ago I used two Frantz filters on my VW bus, one on the oil and one on the gas. This was in the 60's and people were changing oil at 2k to 3k miles and I changed the filter at the same interval and the oil every second or third filter change. The engine was highly modified, was 2180 cc's with Weber carbs and lived a hard life pushing around a 63 bus. But the only information I can give anyone is anecdotal at best.

I'd really like to know what the single pass and second pass effency for the Amsoil BP filter and the MotorGuard. My interest is for a new vehicle and without more information it looks like I'm going to have to find something else to compare with the Oil Guard which has listed the test results, test standards and the lab. That's the kind of stuff I want. http://www.oilguard.com/Other/LabTest.php

The price is not the problem if I'm going to own the vehicle a long time. Ease of installation is a consideration along with service cost and make up oil, but performance is the primary consideration.

I would like to hear from anyone that is using a different filter, too.
 
I have a Motor Guard on my 2003 Tundra and had a UOA when the oil had 2000 miles, and posted it a while back. I am going to do another UOA, for warranty purpose, whenever I accumulate another 2000 miles. I will post it then. I don't drive much so it takes a while. But I have interviewed for 3 jobs and might have to start driving to work again soon.
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The Fluid Power Institute of the Milwaukee School of Engineering conducted a study toe evaluate the filtering efficiency of the AMSOIL BE-90 Byp-Pass Oil Filter element.

The BE-90 removes 21.9% to 99.9% of the particles in the 5-20 micron range. Based on the chart, it appears that the 3 micron removal rate is about 99%. This is using SAE Test Method J 806.
 
quote:
Originally posted by **** in Falls Church:
The Fluid Power Institute of the Milwaukee School of Engineering conducted a study toe evaluate the filtering efficiency of the AMSOIL BE-90 Byp-Pass Oil Filter element.

The BE-90 removes 21.9% to 99.9% of the particles in the 5-20 micron range. Based on the chart, it appears that the 3 micron removal rate is about 99%. This is using SAE Test Method J 806.
Click to expand...
Ahh your right.

I should have thought about that earlier, I just looked over that brochure too yesterday as I just signed up a trucking company and hope to be getting on board with by-pass filtration and oil analysis.

Here is the brochure in PDF for your review.
http://www.amsoil.com/lit/g1063.pdf
 
quote:
With the tp filter the oil is getting refreshed alot with the element changes.
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The Amsoil bp filters also absorb oil that needs to be replaced with a filter change.

From experience it is best if you connect the return line to the oil pan, use tight TP rolls like Scott 1000, and allow the filter to drain until cold before filter change. When I do this I only need half a quart of makeup oil at most for a Frantz filter.
 
quote:
Originally posted by msparks:

quote:
Originally posted by Schultz:
I have to start by saying I like both products, so I'm not partial to either, both have advantages and disadvantages.

MSparks: As I understand the Amsoil is a pleated filter, which would give it a high amount of surface area and capacity as you state. Of course, this all depends on how much media they decide to put into the can. However, the oil flow only sees the thickness of the media, and not the length of it, so it probably only travels through about .030-060" of media and not 2".
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I guess you don't really understand the design of the by-pass filter. Maybe this will "paint" a picture for you.

-


As far as a beta ratio, I don't think that by-pass filters are tested in that way. They are tested as Nominal and absolute filtrations. Whereas the absolute micron size that is stopped by the filter is around 3 microns. The nominal is where 50% of the particles is around 1 micron.

I really don't see how you got that this filter has pleated media. It looks to me to be pretty solid.

Oh and BTW the width of the meadia that the oil has to travel through is 1 and 1/2", as just measured on my cutaway model.

If you want to compare capacity we can measure the circumfence of the meadia and multiply that by the lenght of the filter(media) that will give you the square inches of surface area. As opposed to the Toilet paper you would have to find the surface area of the TP which is pie r squared. You would have to do this for the entire TP roll then subtract out the hollow center.
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I have cut open the Amsoil bypass filter ,BE90,Very heavy duty ,the enement is as advertised a stacked element. The material LOOKS somewhat like peg board material. Do bypass filters work. yes ,do a partical test .Are they needed I don't know ,they will extend oil change intervals if that is what you are looking for. With the tp filter the oil is getting refreshed alot with the element changes.
 
When I researched bypass filters both units seemed similar. That is what I liked about both. I did not want to drill into the oil pan. Amsoil uses an adapter that replaces the spin on oil filter and the outlet and inlet hoses go to the filter elements. Motor Guard uses a Sandwich Adapter and the outlet and inlet hoses go to the Motor Guard and then the Spin on filter goes on the Sandwich Adapter. Space to put the units are the biggest factor. Installation was very simple for me, just had to make sure the hoses had enough room and did not come in contact with any hot parts and had enough slack for the oil to drain into to make it easier to change the filter. Hope that makes sense to you, plenty of good install pictures on the forum. Olympic has the best examples I have looked at.
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[ January 04, 2005, 09:29 PM: Message edited by: oldman ]
 
When I was a kid working in a full service gas station I had a nearly new Rambler American with a spin on bypass filter bolted to the flat head engine. It didn't seem to matter how often I changed the oil and filter the oil was always black. A guy came in one day with a Frantz oil cleaner on a Cadillac. I said, I see you just changed the oil." He said, "yea about 100,000 miles ago." He said, "son if you had one of these filters your engine wouldn't wear out and you wouldn't need to change the oil." I found a Frantz dealer and installed one. The oil stayed clear an I never asked about what the SAE tests were. In over 30 years all I did was change the filter every 2,000 miles or so. When Motor Guard came out in 1966 I figured since it used TP it would probably clean oil as well as the Frantz and I liked the design. It's all common sense. If the oil looks cleaner it is cleaner. If a filter is superior to the others it must be changed more often. At the end of the day all these filters are in a housing for the best oil filter material known to man, 100% high quality cellulose in a tight package. It has never been beaten. If I wanted to pay a lot for a filter element becaise it made me feel better I would wrap a 20 dollar bill around the TP before putting it in the housing. Amsoil is a good filter. It is a better than the Oil Guard and most of the others. It isn't better than TP. I know it is hard to believe that a cheap roll of TP can kick butt.
I have SAE 710813 and 790089 results on the big Fleetguard LF 750. It is very impressive. Their best element takes shredded newspapers. I convert them to take TP and paper towels. These babies don't fit under the hood. Sadly these big filters have pretty much been replaced by less effective spin on filters. The old bypass filters of the 30 and 40s have be replaced by junk. The big Fleetguard and Luberfiner 750s are still available but they are considered obsolete except for construction equipment. I do what I can to bring the good filters back.

Ralph
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How about Oil Guard, isn't this system equal to both Amsoil and Motor Guard?


I had the Oil Guard EPS-20 for over 3 years. I finally sold it a couple months ago and went back to the TP type filter. I had much better analysis with the TP filters. But I couldn't leave well enough alone, had to try. My analysis were not acceptable to me with the Oil Guard. JMO
 
Like all string filters they have a serious channeling problem. To compensate they accuse the TP filters of having a channeling problem. Hold up a roll of Scott 1000 sheet and see if you can find any channels. They figure if they can find a loose wound roll and pour in some water they can make the thing channel. Sadly in marketing the sales pitch can be better than the filter. One guy on another forum says "the TP filters are weird filters that came from a weird state and have a cult following, Frantz, Modesto and Motor Guard, and San Jose, California".

Ralph
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