Amsoil SS on a 300K engine?

It’s a Group V basestock?
I have read that it is a group V since it's consider an "other" oil because it is derived from natural gas. I have also read in places that PUP is a group III. I do not know which one is right.
 
I have read that it is a group V since it's consider an "other" oil because it is derived from natural gas. I have also read in places that PUP is a group III. I do not know which one is right.
Not that’s not correct. Group designations are made on the basis of the viscosity index and chemical composition. It is squarely a Group III product as had already been mentioned. GTL derived lubricating oil is a mixture of short-chain hydrocarbons that is hydrocracked similar to other Group III base stocks. Chemically they are the same.
 
I would not dump it. You're topping off the sump so it's been freshened up. IMO the filter is the limiting factor here.
What I'm saying is, you paid extra for the boutique Amsoil so use it for what it is worth, depending on your comfort level.
 
I looked closer lol. You get TWO 5 quart jugs for $19. That's about half as much. My mistake. Pretty impressive pricing.
If it was me I would stick to the mileage you've been running and go with the Pennzoil on sale. It's probably not going to make any meaningful difference in the lifespan of the engine. 1qt in 6k miles is extremely acceptable for any mileage engine.
 
i can’t see putting expensive oil in a vanilla vehicle with that many miles on it. but i also think people that like blue cheese shouldn’t procreate. lotta opinions out there ...
 
I have switched several high mileage vehicles over to Amsoil or other synthetics, and they leaked or seeped for a while but then the leaking stopped. I have switched several high mileage vehicles over to Amsoil or other synthetics, and they leaked or seeped for a while but then the leaking stopped. YMMV, But I would go five or 10,000 miles and see if the leaks close up for you.
 
I wouldn't change a darn thing if I got that far with no major issues. How's the transmission holding up?
 
I have switched several high mileage vehicles over to Amsoil or other synthetics, and they leaked or seeped for a while but then the leaking stopped. I have switched several high mileage vehicles over to Amsoil or other synthetics, and they leaked or seeped for a while but then the leaking stopped. YMMV, But I would go five or 10,000 miles and see if the leaks close up for you.
I have accidentally posted the same sentence twice in a row before. I have accidentally posted the same sentence twice in a row before.
 
In the spring I made a decision to change out all my cars oils to Amsoil, oil and filters, and just change them once a year. Well, I got cold feet with the car I take to the race track and changed it after 5 events (07 350Z and yes it has a dual pass oil cooler so temps are around 250F on track on a 100F day).

Now to the issue....I have my DD van which is a 2013 Chrysler T&C with 296,000 miles on it. It has the Amsoil SS 5w-20 in it. It burned a over a quart of it already in the 6000 miles I drove it so far. I threw in a quart of 10W-30 Amsoil SS to top it off as thats the last of the SS oil i had left. Figured that was better than topping off with a different brand. It always has had oil consumption but this is more than normal. I am probably going to put another 6-8k miles on it over the winter. Do their extended OCIs even apply to an engine with this high of miles? I am considering just dumping the stuff and changing the oil twice a year on everything with PUP since I get it from WalMart for under $25 a jug. Maybe I am not cut out for extended OCIs? Anyways, Is running a 10k+ OCI on a Pentastar with nearly 300K miles on it a good idea or is this dumb?

I use Amsoil 0W-30 SS in my 1993 Civic and have since it had 118,000 miles on it. The Civic now has close to 625,000 miles.
 
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