Amsoil SS Noack numbers

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Originally Posted by Mad_Hatter
Originally Posted by demarpaint

Exactly. IMO Noack is over thought here. In a healthy engine you really have no worries. Lets also keep in mind how hot a cylinder can get, a lot hotter than 250C.

I'm going to go out on a limb and say that the majority of the oil that disappears from your sump... went *poof* in the combustion chamber and not as a result of evaporation. The way I see it, is that evaporation should not exacerbate your engines drinking problem.... If you're a (t)gdi owner worried about cylinder carbon, well you should be using a SN+ oil to begin with and maybe chasing low noack is worthwhile...but I go back to what I previously said, why then isn't this a problem with diesel engines and 20yr old gdi's??


Fwiw, a good and short read..

Oil Consumption


That was a good read and one thing I've noticed when tearing down engines that have been neglected, is the soot between the lands at the oil control ring. The drain holes are clogged completely.

I think the key is, especially with direct inject engines in passenger cars and trucks, is to change your oil. Just change it, don't maybe worry about "the best" oil, instead worry about buying a "good" oil and changing it every 5,000 miles. I don't no mess around with extended drain intervals anymore with DI engines...and I don't fret over the oil as much, I just change it. I don't go out and buy a 15,000 mile oil, I go out and buy a name brand Synthetic that's on sale and I dump it between 5,000-5,500 miles.

I can't tell you how many techs I've talked to that have replaced rings on DI engines and the soot between the rings has been a problem.
 
Originally Posted by Railrust


That was a good read and one thing I've noticed when tearing down engines that have been neglected, is the soot between the lands at the oil control ring. The drain holes are clogged completely.

I think the key is, especially with direct inject engines in passenger cars and trucks, is to change your oil. Just change it, don't maybe worry about "the best" oil, instead worry about buying a "good" oil and changing it every 5,000 miles. I don't no mess around with extended drain intervals anymore with DI engines...and I don't fret over the oil as much, I just change it. I don't go out and buy a 15,000 mile oil, I go out and buy a name brand Synthetic that's on sale and I dump it between 5,000-5,500 miles.

I can't tell you how many techs I've talked to that have replaced rings on DI engines and the soot between the rings has been a problem.


Very informative post!
I had read about doing regular oil changes with DI due to soot, fuel dilution and sludge ... but didn't know the exact reason. The oil in our DI looks like tar after a while. I try not to go over 6500 miles with syn and 4500 with dino. Once in a while with M1 EP, I had let it go another 1000 which is the OM specified oci.
 
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