Amsoil SS 10W30,5812 mi, 08 Dodge Charger 3.5
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Always get the TBN.
Originally Posted By: Donald
Always get the TBN.
x2, unless the OP is simply monitoring the wear trend for now and is not interested in extending the OCIs just yet. In that case, paying for the TBN seems like a waste but i'd still get it if it was me, just to get more data about the condition of the oil.
Always get the TBN.
x2, unless the OP is simply monitoring the wear trend for now and is not interested in extending the OCIs just yet. In that case, paying for the TBN seems like a waste but i'd still get it if it was me, just to get more data about the condition of the oil.
Originally Posted By: Artem
Originally Posted By: Donald
Always get the TBN.
x2, unless the OP is simply monitoring the wear trend for now and is not interested in extending the OCIs just yet. In that case, paying for the TBN seems like a waste but i'd still get it if it was me, just to get more data about the condition of the oil.
I somewhat agree, but does that assume you are positive that if you go 7500 that your TBN will always be OK?
Polaris/OAI also gives you nitration/oxidation which can be a 2nd indicator for fuel/coolant.
The cheapest way to do a UOA is to buy/split a 10 pack from Polaris. Several months ago 3 BITOG members split a 20 pack.
Originally Posted By: Donald
Always get the TBN.
x2, unless the OP is simply monitoring the wear trend for now and is not interested in extending the OCIs just yet. In that case, paying for the TBN seems like a waste but i'd still get it if it was me, just to get more data about the condition of the oil.
I somewhat agree, but does that assume you are positive that if you go 7500 that your TBN will always be OK?
Polaris/OAI also gives you nitration/oxidation which can be a 2nd indicator for fuel/coolant.
The cheapest way to do a UOA is to buy/split a 10 pack from Polaris. Several months ago 3 BITOG members split a 20 pack.
"This is my most recent UOA. Previous oil was Royal Purple which showed excessive wear. So far I am happy with the Amsoil Signature Series 10W30."
Your engine is still young. The Royal Purple 3,500 miles OC with 26,000 miles on the engine is like a new engine. It might not be excessive wear but the trending from break in wear. Had Amsoil 10w-30 been used instead of RP and wear #'s were high would you blame Amsoil or any approved oil for the excessive wear.
Your engine is still young. The Royal Purple 3,500 miles OC with 26,000 miles on the engine is like a new engine. It might not be excessive wear but the trending from break in wear. Had Amsoil 10w-30 been used instead of RP and wear #'s were high would you blame Amsoil or any approved oil for the excessive wear.
Originally Posted By: Mamala Bay
"This is my most recent UOA. Previous oil was Royal Purple which showed excessive wear. So far I am happy with the Amsoil Signature Series 10W30."
Your engine is still young. The Royal Purple 3,500 miles OC with 26,000 miles on the engine is like a new engine. It might not be excessive wear but the trending from break in wear. Had Amsoil 10w-30 been used instead of RP and wear #'s were high would you blame Amsoil or any approved oil for the excessive wear.
Yes, exactly. the metals are trending down, Royal Purple had nothing to do with it. Chrysler is also recently known to use a copper type of sealer in their newer engines, so they always tend to show high copper for a little while. check out UOA's on Hemi's its the norm, your on your way to the averages. you could use Super tech 10w30 next time and prob get lower wear metals because your engine is trending down toward normal. by 50k miles it will prob be at or below averages.
"This is my most recent UOA. Previous oil was Royal Purple which showed excessive wear. So far I am happy with the Amsoil Signature Series 10W30."
Your engine is still young. The Royal Purple 3,500 miles OC with 26,000 miles on the engine is like a new engine. It might not be excessive wear but the trending from break in wear. Had Amsoil 10w-30 been used instead of RP and wear #'s were high would you blame Amsoil or any approved oil for the excessive wear.
Yes, exactly. the metals are trending down, Royal Purple had nothing to do with it. Chrysler is also recently known to use a copper type of sealer in their newer engines, so they always tend to show high copper for a little while. check out UOA's on Hemi's its the norm, your on your way to the averages. you could use Super tech 10w30 next time and prob get lower wear metals because your engine is trending down toward normal. by 50k miles it will prob be at or below averages.
My car started with conventional Mobile1 10W30. It was recommended in the user manual. I can only use that weight of oil. Otherwise my warranty will be void. For the 1st 12k my car never had any problem. Running great. I switched to royal purple 10W30 at 12K margin. Within 3K miles of using it my car starts to develop a stalling problem---shaking violently at idle. My dealer never figured out why it was doing that since there were no codes. Strange thing is this only happens after approximately 3k miles after a change with RP oil. And this happens for all 4 cycle of my RP oil change.
Then I decide to ditch RP and try Amsoil for once. Good thing is the violent shaking is cured after switching to Amsoil.
Then I decide to ditch RP and try Amsoil for once. Good thing is the violent shaking is cured after switching to Amsoil.
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Originally Posted By: donnyj08
Originally Posted By: Mamala Bay
"This is my most recent UOA. Previous oil was Royal Purple which showed excessive wear. So far I am happy with the Amsoil Signature Series 10W30."
Your engine is still young. The Royal Purple 3,500 miles OC with 26,000 miles on the engine is like a new engine. It might not be excessive wear but the trending from break in wear. Had Amsoil 10w-30 been used instead of RP and wear #'s were high would you blame Amsoil or any approved oil for the excessive wear.
Yes, exactly. the metals are trending down, Royal Purple had nothing to do with it. Chrysler is also recently known to use a copper type of sealer in their newer engines, so they always tend to show high copper for a little while. check out UOA's on Hemi's its the norm, your on your way to the averages. you could use Super tech 10w30 next time and prob get lower wear metals because your engine is trending down toward normal. by 50k miles it will prob be at or below averages.
The 3.5l engine on Dodge/Chrysler is solid design dated back 1995. I checked with my fellow Charger owners and no one was getting such high wear in their 3.5 with such low miles. It should have passed the break in period a long time ago.
Originally Posted By: Mamala Bay
"This is my most recent UOA. Previous oil was Royal Purple which showed excessive wear. So far I am happy with the Amsoil Signature Series 10W30."
Your engine is still young. The Royal Purple 3,500 miles OC with 26,000 miles on the engine is like a new engine. It might not be excessive wear but the trending from break in wear. Had Amsoil 10w-30 been used instead of RP and wear #'s were high would you blame Amsoil or any approved oil for the excessive wear.
Yes, exactly. the metals are trending down, Royal Purple had nothing to do with it. Chrysler is also recently known to use a copper type of sealer in their newer engines, so they always tend to show high copper for a little while. check out UOA's on Hemi's its the norm, your on your way to the averages. you could use Super tech 10w30 next time and prob get lower wear metals because your engine is trending down toward normal. by 50k miles it will prob be at or below averages.
The 3.5l engine on Dodge/Chrysler is solid design dated back 1995. I checked with my fellow Charger owners and no one was getting such high wear in their 3.5 with such low miles. It should have passed the break in period a long time ago.
Originally Posted By: Donald
Originally Posted By: Artem
Originally Posted By: Donald
Always get the TBN.
x2, unless the OP is simply monitoring the wear trend for now and is not interested in extending the OCIs just yet. In that case, paying for the TBN seems like a waste but i'd still get it if it was me, just to get more data about the condition of the oil.
I somewhat agree, but does that assume you are positive that if you go 7500 that your TBN will always be OK?
Polaris/OAI also gives you nitration/oxidation which can be a 2nd indicator for fuel/coolant.
The cheapest way to do a UOA is to buy/split a 10 pack from Polaris. Several months ago 3 BITOG members split a 20 pack.
I dont come over forum that often. But thanks for your advice!
Originally Posted By: Artem
Originally Posted By: Donald
Always get the TBN.
x2, unless the OP is simply monitoring the wear trend for now and is not interested in extending the OCIs just yet. In that case, paying for the TBN seems like a waste but i'd still get it if it was me, just to get more data about the condition of the oil.
I somewhat agree, but does that assume you are positive that if you go 7500 that your TBN will always be OK?
Polaris/OAI also gives you nitration/oxidation which can be a 2nd indicator for fuel/coolant.
The cheapest way to do a UOA is to buy/split a 10 pack from Polaris. Several months ago 3 BITOG members split a 20 pack.
I dont come over forum that often. But thanks for your advice!
Originally Posted By: xkm121
So you guys will consider a engine with 30k miles a new engine?
I used synthetic oil from 1000 miles when new. First OC 6000 miles and there after 12,000 miles yearly. UOA confirmed 12,000 miles was doable. When you hit 200,000 miles you look back at it I'd say the first 100,000 miles was the most important, the next 100,000 miles made it easier glad I stuck with it.
Looking at 30,000 miles yea hasn't reach 50,000 miles but when you look back at it at 200,000 miles it's passing it's first stage.
So you guys will consider a engine with 30k miles a new engine?
I used synthetic oil from 1000 miles when new. First OC 6000 miles and there after 12,000 miles yearly. UOA confirmed 12,000 miles was doable. When you hit 200,000 miles you look back at it I'd say the first 100,000 miles was the most important, the next 100,000 miles made it easier glad I stuck with it.
Looking at 30,000 miles yea hasn't reach 50,000 miles but when you look back at it at 200,000 miles it's passing it's first stage.
How would the oil cause an engine to stall?
This probably has minimal break-in wear remaining, if any.
The report is better than the last. Get another with the same combination done and post it up, if trending is any better you should be good to go.
TBN with it to see how the combo lasts, but it's also likely fine unless it's winter time, lots of short trips(most drives in the car are less than 5 miles), long idling periods, etc.
The report is better than the last. Get another with the same combination done and post it up, if trending is any better you should be good to go.
TBN with it to see how the combo lasts, but it's also likely fine unless it's winter time, lots of short trips(most drives in the car are less than 5 miles), long idling periods, etc.
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