Amsoil question

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34,043
Location
Southern NJ
What would be the main benefits, if any, of running Amsoil's S3000 HD oil in a gas engine? Looks like a very solid oil. It seems very comparable to Delvac 1, only it's a 30wt. oil. [Smile] One other thing, being 20wt oils seem to be gaining popularity and will eventually replace 30's, do you see Amsoil adding more of this wt. to there line up? My next car might be the Acura Rsx and it calls for a 20wt oil. If I ran S2000 in this car, and it thickend to almost a 40wt oil, that would be a 20wt. difference in what it calls for. I don't think that would be to good. Any thoughts? [Smile] [ February 28, 2003, 09:37 PM: Message edited by: buster ]
 
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47,693
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Duvall WA - Pacific NW USA
I am gonna run the S3000 soon. I think it should be an excellent oil in gas engines for extended drains. I mean I have had EXCELLENT sucess with the regular 5W-30... 20W- I dunno really...I think they'll stay with the no warranty arguments XL. When the warranty expires switch to 30W!
 

Patman

Staff member
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21,989
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Oakville, Ontario
If someone wanted to use 5w30 Amsoil for shorter drains, like 5-10k, would the series 2000 show lower wear numbers due to it's better friction modifiers? In other words, is the series 3000 stuff simply better because it lasts longer, but does not necessarily offer as good protection against wear?
 

buster

Thread starter
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34,043
Location
Southern NJ
quote:
In other words, is the series 3000 stuff simply better because it lasts longer, but does not necessarily offer as good protection against wear?
Good question, and to add to that, does it have better detergency? [Smile] If I were to order another case from Amsoil, I think this would be my choice. The analysis seems to good. It looks like it holds up better then all there other oils. It is quite expensive though. [Frown]
 

mdv

Messages
531
Location
MA
quote:
Originally posted by buster: What would be the main benefits, if any, of running Amsoil's S3000 HD oil in a gas engine? Looks like a very solid oil. It seems very comparable to Delvac 1, only it's a 30wt. oil. [Smile] One other thing, being 20wt oils seem to be gaining popularity and will eventually replace 30's, do you see Amsoil adding more of this wt. to there line up? My next car might be the Acura Rsx and it calls for a 20wt oil. If I ran S2000 in this car, and it thickend to almost a 40wt oil, that would be a 20wt. difference in what it calls for. I don't think that would be to good. Any thoughts? [Smile]
I think this would only be a 10 wt. difference considering that most of these engines specifiying 5W-20's have been run on 5W-30 for years (the old CAFE argument).
 
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5,785
Location
Dixie
Patman, I'd run the 0w-30 up in Canada ...I think you need all the cold weather performance you need up there. I've seen basically identical oil analysis results with these two oils in terms of wear rates, based on very limited testing. The S3000, 5w-30 is a bit more shear stable than their 0w-30, since it uses a thicker base oil. TBN retention was about the same .... The Series 2000, 0w-30 will also give you about 1%-2% better fuel efficiency than the S3000, 5w-30, since it is friction modified ....
 

Patman

Staff member
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21,989
Location
Oakville, Ontario
quote:
Originally posted by TooSlick: Patman, I'd run the 0w-30 up in Canada ...I think you need all the cold weather performance you need up there. I've seen basically identical oil analysis results with these two oils in terms of wear rates, based on very limited testing. The S3000, 5w-30 is a bit more shear stable than their 0w-30, since it uses a thicker base oil. TBN retention was about the same .... The Series 2000, 0w-30 will also give you about 1%-2% better fuel efficiency than the S3000, 5w-30, since it is friction modified ....
I wish I was running some 0w30 this morning! Even though March can be warm (our record high for today's date is 61F) this morning certainly wasn't! The coldest morning I have ever seen! At 8am it was -25C, or -12F! My engine started up fine with the 10w30 Schaeffer in there, but I just know I would've seen better wear numbers if I was running a 5w30 or 0w30 oil this winter. I never figured we'd have the coldest winter ever up here. Last winter it didn't go below 0F once, and rarely went below 15F for the most part actually. I'm almost scared to see how bad my oil analysis results are going to be on this batch of oil, with such extreme weather like this.
 
Messages
117
Location
USA
I can buy Amsoil retail in my town. Can someone suggest which Amsoil products I should buy? I have a 1999 Dodge Durango 318 4X4. It has about 62,000 miles. I also have a 1996 Dodge Dakota V6 4X4. It has 100,000 miles. Also I think I read something on a message board about using the cleaner first before putting this oil in ... is that right?
 
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5,785
Location
Dixie
I'd start with the Amsoil 10w-30 (product code: ATM) in both of these. Run the amsoil engine flush in each engine (along with a new oil filter). Fast idle for 20 minutes @ two times the normal idle speed. They drain the oil/flush, change the filter again and put Amsoil in. I'd change out the first batch of Amsoil in both engines @ 7500 miles, since you will still have some varnish/carbon deposits being cleaned out. Starting with the second batch you run, you can go to a longer change interval, supported by oil analysis. Correct Amsoil filter for both of these should be the SDF-42, but I'd look that up. My second choice would be the Mobil 1 filter .... TS
 
Messages
117
Location
USA
Too Slick (or any Amsoil Dealer), I have a few questions: 1.Regarding API and the levels of phos. used by Amzoil in it's formulations. I would like Amzoils response as to why API considers it too high? What are the drawbacks to too much phos.? 2. Why is there no boron in Amzoil? It is the best friction modifier/anti-wear agent available. 3.The XL7500 that meets API, what is the oil change frequency that Amzoil recommends? In regards to warranty issues, it plainly states in the owners manual that the oil used must be approved by API. Anything else will void the warranty. Following reasoning, I could put Mercon in the crankcase and it shouldn't void the warranty but I can assure you it will. I could even put kerosene in the gas tank and it shouldn't void the warranty. Sorry, but this statement is false. I am considering either XL7500 or extended drain formulation, but I have a problem with Amzoil not stressing to users about having an oil analysis performed at scheduled intervals. Some of the extended drain analysis I've seen is remarkable. But here the glitch ... these engines have Amzoils dual filtration system, oil pressure alarms after the filter system, and a rigorous maintenance schedule that includes oil analysis. I an not going to find this setup on my Dakotas.
 
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3,023
Location
USA-Michigan
On the warranty issue. Where does it say that it will void the warranty? The car manf. are carefully to not say that anything will void a warranty. They recommend. Further more, how would GM or a dealer know what oil you are using without doing a analysis and even then its iffy if it can be determined if an oil is API or the brand. They can give a best bet but most labs will be hesitant to offer a 100% conclusion without having a product for comparision. Some will say that your receipts will or should state what oil you use etc. But that is not often the case. We had several vehicles at work, we always changed the oil every 5000 miles with no time limits. All the receipts ever said was; oil change, lube and filter. I don't recall ever seeing anything stating only API cetified oils were used. Sometimes the invoice would indicate what oil the sell but there was not statement what was installed, for all we know they put in anything that made them the most $$. You sound like this is of concern, the API cert., so the XL7500 should be your only consideration. Under normal conditions, it procides a 7500 miles/6 months service. The lenght of service will depend to some degree on the quality of the air and oil filters you use. You have a choice of; 5W-20, 5W-30, 10W-30 and 10W-40 all which carry the API certification. [ March 20, 2003, 09:12 AM: Message edited by: Mike ]
 
Messages
6,388
Location
Washington St.
Reb, 1) If phosphorus gets to your catalytic converter, it'll kill it. This can be prevented by limiting the amount of phosphorus (P) in the oil (acutally the zinc phosphorus compound called ZDDP used as an antiwear agent) and/or limiting the volatility of the oil so the P doesn't get carried to the converter. API certified oils both limit the P and limit the volatility. Amsoil has a very low level of volatility (probably to limit oil consumption during extended drain intervals) but too much P to meet API levels. Why?...ask Amsoil. 2) Why no boron?...probably too expensive, but ask Amsoil. They have an additive package that suits their needs, and they stick with it. 3) XL7500...6 months or 7500 miles. You do not render your warranty void if you use suitable products in your car. Amsoil's motor oil is certainly suitable for your engine, although lawyers might split hairs on whether your owner's manual effectively contains a "recommendation" or a "requirement." You'd probably be OK using non-API oil that is suitable for your engine and tests good in extended drain intervals, but you also might have a big headache if you have a warranty claim and the car company stonewalls you. If you have a so-called extended warranty, you've limited your maintenance options to any expressly spelled out in your contract. If you don't follow the provisions in that contract, and be able to document that you did so, don't expect the extended warranty company to pay off any related claims you have. Ken [ March 20, 2003, 11:47 AM: Message edited by: Ken2 ]
 
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5,785
Location
Dixie
1)The volatility of the oil is more of a factor in how much phosphorus gets to the converter than whether you have 1000 ppm or 1200 ppm in the additive package. Amsoil has worked with Lubrizol to specifically reduce phosphorus volatility. It's a non-issue as far as I'm concerned .... 2) Most of the amsoil formulations do contain about 40-50 ppm of boron (borate ester) 3) Drain interval is 7500 miles/6 months - even under severe service conditions. The XL-7500 stuff is better than most of the off the shelf synthetics, but the regular 5w-30/10w-30/10w-40 are even better values for the money, since they safely allow much longer change intervals. TS
 
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