Amsoil MCV 20W50 + AutoRX 1996 HD Road King 37K Mi

[Laminar Lou]

910 Miles with AutoRx in it. Oil was drained. Used an Amsoil EAO filter. Replaced with Castrol 20W50 for Autorx rinse phase. Insolubles look like the AutoRx is working. Did a compression test before AutoRX and the readings were 125-Front 124-Rear (I think Harley spec is >85 with less then 10% deviation between cylinders). I don't expect the AutoRx to increase the compression, but I will post the results of the compression test after the rinse phase.

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1996 FLHRI (Harley Davidson Road King)
Evolution 80ci
Gasoline
Vehicle miles: 36,996	
Miles on oil : 910
Life of oil  : 3 months

Lab: Blackstone/Dyson

Sent to Terry Dyson for analysis.



          Actual    Universal Average

Aluminum  1         5
Chromium  1         2
Iron      7	    17
Copper    8         8
Lead      1         2
Tin       0         0
Moly      36        40
Nickel    0         1
Manganese 0         1
Silver    0         0
Titanium  0         0
Potassium 9         1
Boron     36        126
Silicon   4         16	
Sodium    8         5
Calcium   2772      2190
Magnesium 94        531
Phosph    1100      961
Zinc      1262      1089
Barium    0         2

Sub Viscosity @ 210	= 	88.0
	Should be			82-95

Flashpoint		=	410
	Should be			>385

Fuel %			=	<0.5
	Should be			<2.0

Antifreeze %		=	0
	Should be 		0

Water			=	<0.0
	Should be			<0.1

Insolubles		= 	0.5
	Should be			<0.6



 

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[Chris B.]

Looks good to me. Dosen't Auto Rx work better in dino oil? Can't wait to see how the compression test turns out!

 

[Laminar Lou]

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Originally posted by Chris B.: Looks good to me. Dosen't Auto Rx work better in dino oil? Can't wait to see how the compression test turns out!

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Yes and no. There are 2 parts to the AutoRX process. The first part (cleaning phase) can be used with conventional or synthetic. The second part (rinsing phase) should be conventional oil for best results. What you are seeing here is the cleaning phase, so I chose to go with Amsoil. Mostly because I figured it would probably take a year before I got that oil out. Turns out that wasn't the case, but no harm done. I put Castrol 20W50 (dino) in it for the rinse phase. I'll post the results when I do the next analysis. I also plan to open up the oil filter to see what is in it. I'll post those results too (in the filter section - probably next week). I used Terry Dyson's services for the oil analysis and would highly recommend him if you plan to go that route. He can point out things that are wrong with the engine and will help you tweak them. For instance, he thought my K&N was over oiled. I pulled the filter and sure enough there was oil dripping from the filter. I also noticed my intake looks pretty dirty too, so it probably needs a cleaning. All of those problems are probably contributing to my pinging problems under heavy load. I was so impressed that I immediately ordered one of his "deluxe" oil analysis kits to use at the end of the rinse phase. I thought his service was well worth the money. However, if you have a new sportster I wouldn't bother with an autoRX just yet. I've got 40K and 10 years on this engine with lots of little quick runs to work when the weather was nice. I anticipate I've got some sludge in there, and it appears that perception was correct according to the insolubles. I'll probably run another course of the AutoRX after this cleaning phase. Nothing's too good for my baby...

 

[IslaVistaMan]

Superb results, LL. I'm sure your motor was clean before, so the ARX probably just acted as a scavenging agent. My guess is without it, your wear metals counts would have been even lower -- likely zero chromium (ring wear), for example. With this engine completely broken in, sticking with the MCV could add quite a few years to it. After the rinse phase with dino, I think you could safely extend the change interval to 3,000 miles -- maybe longer with more UOAs. It's pretty clear that this oil really doesn't shear, just like Amsoil says. Very nice to see an air-cooled engine wearing as if it was water-cooled!

 

[Laminar Lou]

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Originally posted by IslaVistaMan: Superb results, LL. I'm sure your motor was clean before, so the ARX probably just acted as a scavenging agent. Very nice to see an air-cooled engine wearing as if it was water-cooled!

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I think I should add that this engine has a high lift cam, larger fuel injectors, heavy duty valve springs, screaming eagle ECM w/ extended rpm limiter, hi flow kit, among other things. So it's got some modifications to it. Next will be a new intake if I can't get the pinging under control, but I suspect it needs some top end cleaning. I might try some Amsoil power foam on the intake at the end of the oil life (but after I take the sample). I bet I have been over oiling the K&N for some time now and made a mess in there. I wish I could put 3K miles in a year but that doesn't happen too often. So I pretty much just change the oil yearly. Maybe a little overkill, but it sits so much in the winter I just want to get that oil outta there each season. I just started using FP60 (was using the HD additive by Duralt for years). I have needed to use 91 octane and an additive to keep the detonation down. Seems to have gotten worse over the years. Sounds like crud has accumulated and thought it would be a good autorx candidate. The only synthetic this engine has seen is the Amsoil above and some Royal Purple 20W50 about 5 years ago. Every other change has been a steady diet of HD oil. The guy before me was maticulous with his maintenance records so I know it was well mantained. However, I will stick with the Amsoil since it is just more convenient for me to buy. I also plan to fog it in the winter for grins (amsoil fogging oil).

 

[Pablo]

I've obviously not been hanging in the MC UOA forum enough. This is good stuff - especially given your mods. First of all the viscosity looks great! Wear metals - excellent. I guess the only thing is the insolubles - could be the AutoRx. Good idea to take a look at your filtration, oil and air. Thanks for posting this!