Amsoil causing seeps?

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kawie_guy

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Hi guys. Been a reader here for years but this is my first post. I am looking for some advice on course of action. I have a Kawie ATV that I ran dino oil in for the first 1100 miles. Never leaked or seeped a drop with that oil. Then I switched over to Amsoil 10w-40 Motorcycle oil, and within 100 miles, it started creating wet spots all over the engine. When I called Kawie, they blamed the oil. When I called Amsoil, they blamed Kawie. I tend to think it's more the oil because I have a hard time believing that all my seals and o-rings went bad all at once. Seems more likely that the oil is the culprit even though Amsoil claims that their oil has seal rejuvenation additives and does not "find all the holes and seams to leak from". Whatever the case, I want it to stop. I love what Amsoil does for the inside of my engine, but I hate having all these leaks. I don't mind that my engine seems to burn Amsoil, but it drives me crazy having my engine look like a 50's era 2 stroke with all the stains on it. So my questions are these: Should I go back to dino oil? Is there a synthetic oil that doesn't leak so bad? Should I try some Lucas Engine Oil Stop Leak or something? What are your experiences with Amsoil? Have you had this problem with it? Thanks in advance guys.
 
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I doubt the oil had anything to do with it but if all my seals just started to leak I'd check for a clogged pcv valve. Or the hose.
 
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Synthetic oil causing seals to leak is an old wives tale. http://auto.howstuffworks.com/switch-to-synthetic-oil1.htm With a motor new enough to be under warranty, you've got other issues. Oh, wait, you haven't specified age of the motor. Try Scotty Kilmer's advice: http://www.ebay.com/itm/ATP-AT-205-Re-Seal-Stops-Leaks-8-Ounce-Bottle-Free-Shipping-New/141401970158?_trksid=p2050601.c100271.m3466&_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140716145905%26meid%3Dacf50f9bd5a243df88d8ac74ddef95e0%26pid%3D100271%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D4%26mehot%3Dag%26sd%3D261661568446%26clkid%3D3690939702723979869&_qi=RTM1963929
 
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A local auto repair shop here that's been in business since the 60's said they noticed that switching to synthetic oil often stopped minor seepage around seals. They say that there was some seepage noticed right after switching to synthetic on some vehicles but it usually stopped after a thousand miles or so. The shop manager said that he just does not see any pattern of oil leaks or seepage because of synthetic oil. Their house synthetic oil is Mobil 1.
 
Originally Posted By: abycat
I doubt the oil had anything to do with it but if all my seals just started to leak I'd check for a clogged pcv valve. Or the hose.
No pcv valve in this atv.
 
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
If it's such a lower mileage engine and it's leaking it's not Amsoils fault... Power train warranty?
It's low mileage for a car, but this is an atv engine that revs pretty high and now has 6000 miles. Probably equivalent to 100,000 miles of a car engine.
 
Originally Posted By: Ihatetochangeoil
Synthetic oil causing seals to leak is an old wives tale. http://auto.howstuffworks.com/switch-to-synthetic-oil1.htm With a motor new enough to be under warranty, you've got other issues. Oh, wait, you haven't specified age of the motor.
Your link to howstuffworks.com says that "synthetic oil will not create leaks, but it will find one". I think that's exactly what's happening. Perhaps some stop leak or reverting back to dino oil will make the leaking stop? This is a 2005 atv with 6000 miles currently. No warranty.
 
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When I had my Dodge van, I was always proud of the fact that it never leaked a drop of anything. The underside was dry as a bone, always. I used MS5K, RT5, and even PYB. Switching to M1 synthetic gave me a gushing front and rear main seal within 100 miles, and seeped out of my valve cover gaskets too. This was especially distressing since I ran a crankcase evacuation system that kept the engine continuously at 8 inches of vacuum from idle to red line. Synthetic will definitely find a way if there is one.
 
Liqui moly motor oil saver or ATP-205 re seal are about the only two additives worth your money, but I wouldn't jump that far ahead until you go at least a couple intervals on the new synthetic to see if it's gets better.
 
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
Liqui moly motor oil saver or ATP-205 re seal are about the only two additives worth your money, but I wouldn't jump that far ahead until you go at least a couple intervals on the new synthetic to see if it's gets better.
I first used Amsoil at 1100 miles and now have 6000. I have changed the oil at 500 mile intervals for the last 4900 miles, all with Amsoil. Is that enough time to get a good read? In that time, I've actually had one seep go to a small leak. The last image finally went from a wet spot to a full blown leak last weekend:
 
I think with the new knowledge we have it might be a good idea to pair a good high milaege oil with one of the before mentioned sealing products such as ATP205 Re Seal or Liqui Moly Motor oil saver, whatever you can find easier. If that's a 40 grade spec'd oil, try Quaker State Defy 10w40 if you can find it, if not try Maxlife 10w40. Are API SL+ gasoline oils okay in that engine?
 
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
Are API SL+ gasoline oils okay in that engine?
No. They must be wet clutch compatible JASO MA MA2.
 
Recently I've seen print ads for Porsche Classic oil. I looked it up and was stunned what it said. It specifically said the oil is made to keep some deposits on the gaskets so they didn't leak because of the age of the car. They don't WANT you to have a sparkling clean engine it sounds like. Syn is a cleaner so it will clean and "find" holes that were previously plugged with deposits.
 
Originally Posted By: Ihatetochangeoil
Do you have actual experience using this stuff? If so, what do you think?
I haven't used it or any other oil stop leak product. Always thought it would counteract what the oil was designed to do. But I am starting to think it might be worth a try now. I really don't want to tear apart this engine every 1000 miles to put in new seals, grommets and o-rings!
 
I purchased my '07 Fusion with 105k miles about 15 months ago. I changed the oil immediately after purchasing with a Motorcraft filter and Pennzoil Platinum 5W20. At that point, perfectly dry underneath. Changed after 7k miles at 112k. Still dry. Changed to Pennzoil Ultra 5W20. Ran for 7k miles to 120k. When I was just under it to do the change at 120k, I found leaks everywhere. An oil pan leak, rear valve cover leak, and rear main seal leak. Why? Who knows. Do I blame the synthetic? Not really. Engines are subject to ridiculous heat and treatment just short of torture. I'm happy to deal with an oil leak or two if it means a healthy clean engine otherwise...
 
Which Kawasaki ATV is this? A Brute Force or? Speaking for the BFs they are not wet clutch (though the oil specified for them is JASO MA2). I run QS Defy 10W-40 and Rotella Triple T 15W-40 in mine (the Rotella is JASO MA2) and had no issues with either of them. I have heard the oil in the BFs runs too hot and causes the rear seal to start leaking on them, but not every seal on the ATV.
 
This is the Prairie 700. They made it for three years '04,'05, and '06. It was then dropped as a mid engine option between the BF 6550 and the BF750.
 
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