Amsoil AZO 0w30 - 10,217 miles - 06 Scion tC

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My tailpipe is very sooty, and my oil consumption is less than yours. If you dont get a black finger swiping that pipe, there's a puddle in the driveway. Even if its the PCV was causing it which I doubt, anything going out the PCV goes to top of the plastic intake, then to the combustion chamber. and if the replacement PCV was an aftermarket, it likely has a large inlet hole, not the OE small hole. So it will rattle loudly, like a marble.

Sure, you can run forever burning oil like that but expect collateral damage (which I worked around. anti-fouler). Here's why.

The ECU on your car is programmed for a ridiculously high catalyst efficiency of 95%. Means if your exhaust manifold cat gets only slightly fouled with oil, you will get the dreaded P0420 catalyst efficiency CEL. You will pass inspection emissions with flying colors, but fail for an illuminated CEL. Replacement cats arent cheap, its the welded cat/exhaust manifold. Do what you can to stop the consumption before your stuck replacing the cat or adding an anti fouler to the rear o2
 
I replaced the PCV valve with an OEM piece because the el cheapo aftermarket ones suck.

Also, what makes you think I still have the CAT installed and need to worry about it? It's all been modified, my friend.

Like I said, the exhaust stays clean and there's no visible smoke during start up or while bouncing off the rev limit. I've driven behind it while the wifey gives it the beans and saw nothing only the smell of fresh fumes
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As I've already said, there are no oil puddles in the garage. There are absolutely zero leaks. The block and everything around it is dry as a whistle. I have no idea where this amount of oil could be going...
 
Originally Posted By: Artem
Also, what makes you think I still have the CAT installed and need to worry about it? It's all been modified, my friend.

Assumption because its federal law, and as stated in my prior message, you will get a catalyst inefficient CEL and fail an emission test.

Anyways good luck
 
Florida doesn't have emission testing. If that changes in the future, I'll throw the OEM exhaust manifold back on.

Thanks though, i appreciate your effort and the info for others viewing this thread. I was well aware of the CATs going back due to oil. My 07 Si didn't have a CAT either because they are very restrictive and there's plenty of HP gains to be made by removing it.

Anyway, back to topic.
 
Have you considered the Amsoil 10W-30? My thought is that is less volatile. I would also think that at the temperatures you experience, a good 10W would cause no issues for you.

I certainly enjoy reading your posts, and appreciate the education you provide us Biotogers by sharing your experiences
 
Artem, both the Toyota 1.8L and Honda 2.4L that I have owned consumed oil from day 1. The Toyota 1.8L consumed a qt every 3k miles.

I still don't know where the oil was going because the PCV valve was fine and replaced often and there was never any smoke. Cars always passed emissions.

I'm pretty confident that the consumption occurred because both vehicles were not broken-in aggressively enough allowing the rings to fully seat and form a better seal.
 
Originally Posted By: troyb43
Have you considered the Amsoil 10W-30? My thought is that is less volatile. I would also think that at the temperatures you experience, a good 10W would cause no issues for you.

I certainly enjoy reading your posts, and appreciate the education you provide us Biotogers by sharing your experiences



X2.


Always a pleasure to converse with you, Artem.
 
Originally Posted By: troyb43
Have you considered the Amsoil 10W-30? My thought is that is less volatile. I would also think that at the temperatures you experience, a good 10W would cause no issues for you.

I certainly enjoy reading your posts, and appreciate the education you provide us Biotogers by sharing your experiences


I'll consider it after a do a few runs with this 5w30 conventional just for kicks and giggles.

Originally Posted By: buster
Artem, both the Toyota 1.8L and Honda 2.4L that I have owned consumed oil from day 1. The Toyota 1.8L consumed a qt every 3k miles.

I still don't know where the oil was going because the PCV valve was fine and replaced often and there was never any smoke. Cars always passed emissions.

I'm pretty confident that the consumption occurred because both vehicles were not broken-in aggressively enough allowing the rings to fully seat and form a better seal.


I don't know, i broke in my 07 Honda Civic Si aggressively right from the get go during the test drive, with 3 miles on the clock and it still burned a quart of oil every 3k miles.

The tC was purchased used with 9k miles on it from an auction. It was flipped but still salvageable so i have no idea how it was driven or taken care of but i'm sure you realize that it definitely takes some skill in order to flip a car...
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Originally Posted By: tpitcher
Originally Posted By: troyb43
Have you considered the Amsoil 10W-30? My thought is that is less volatile. I would also think that at the temperatures you experience, a good 10W would cause no issues for you.

I certainly enjoy reading your posts, and appreciate the education you provide us Biotogers by sharing your experiences



X2.


Always a pleasure to converse with you, Artem.



Same here tpitcher.
 
Bro, how about 5w-30 Euro version?
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Other thoughts: Normal size oil filter? Power Foam for top-end soaking of the CC, say 2 hours? Any engine idle flush?
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Originally Posted By: ltslimjim
Bro, how about 5w-30 Euro version?
banana2.gif


Other thoughts: Normal size oil filter? Power Foam for top-end soaking of the CC, say 2 hours? Any engine idle flush?
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You know, i was thinking about the 5w30 Euro but it's not something that i have in stock so i'd have to order it and with the amount of oil i have on hand, it didn't make any sense to me.

I don't have any need for a bigger oil filter. The little M1 gets the job done just fine.

I ran Amsoil's engine flush during a few OCs and it didn't seem to help, if anything, consumption got worse after that (that's when i started using AZO)

I'm not interested in doing any top end soaking at the moment. The engine is fine, IMO and the oil consumption isn't that big of an issue / problem either.
 
Originally Posted By: Artem
That's the thing though, its consuming oil but I can't find where its going.

Easy as 1-2-3. Oil rings and drainage holes are going to clogg.
Originally Posted By: Artem
No smoke at start up.

This means that valve seals are fine, nothing more.

Using dino oil will not help you, you'll have almost same oil consumption, plus or minus 0.5 quarts. I would STROLGLY recommend to use engine flush before changing the oil. Also consider some other products:
Xado Total Flush
Xado oil system cleaner

Read this as well (sorry, guys, I am too lazy to translate from Russian the whole artices):
http://www.oil-club.ru/forum/topic/9535-9535/page__st__30
http://forums.drom.ru/toyota-corolla-sprinter-carib/t1151595338-p237.html#post1144141286

And I told personally to you that oil consumption will be increased. Looks like the best laugh is the last laugh.
 
Originally Posted By: Brons2
3 quarts makeup in 10K? I'd use conventional also.


This oil consumed like crazy in our Expedition too, compared with zero consumption with M1 AFE 0w-30. I had to stop using it due to that reason.
 
How is the consumption rate so much different from one brand to another ? Different weight is understandable, such as no consumption with xW30 or xW40 but some consumption with xW20.
 
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
How is the consumption rate so much different from one brand to another ? Different weight is understandable, such as no consumption with xW30 or xW40 but some consumption with xW20.


I dunno
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As I noted in another thread, I did multiple OCI's with the AZO in hopes that consumption would setting down but it never did. I have next to no (maybe 1L per 10,000Km?) with PU 5w-30. And zero with AFE 0w-30. I'll be going back to the AFE once my PU 5w-30 stash is used up.
 
Consumption = More frequent make up oil = Higher TBN = Justifing longer run, just saying.
 
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Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
How is the consumption rate so much different from one brand to another ? Different weight is understandable, such as no consumption with xW30 or xW40 but some consumption with xW20.


I dunno
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As I noted in another thread, I did multiple OCI's with the AZO in hopes that consumption would setting down but it never did. I have next to no (maybe 1L per 10,000Km?) with PU 5w-30. And zero with AFE 0w-30. I'll be going back to the AFE once my PU 5w-30 stash is used up.


Interesting! I'm not noticing any major consumption on the soob with AFE. I was worried when I switched.
 
Originally Posted By: Brons2
Who dug up this three years dormant thread?


-raises hand- I intended to send a PM, and somehow it caused me to reply to the thread.
 
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