Amsoil AZO 0w-30 + LM MoS2 --- 92 Civic VX

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So, here is my second run on Amsoil 0w-30, this one with the 'new' AZO formulation. This is the first OCI with Lubro Moly MoS2 sampled in this app; it appears the use of slightly more than half the can(as per the instructions of correct add ratio on the can) increased the ppm about 100 or so. Capacity: 3.5 Quarts Oil filter used: Amsoil EaO20 Air filter used: K&N drop-in replacement http://img249.imageshack.us/img249/5550/uoa3.png
Code:
OIL             AMSOIL AZO 0w-30  
MILES IN USE    5,000
MILES           256,440
SAMPLE TAKEN    10/01/2011

ALUMINUM        4               
CHROMIUM        0              
IRON            7              
COPPER          6             
LEAD            5             
TIN             3                
MOLYBDENUM      216              
NICKEL          0                
MANGANESE       0                
SILVER          0                
TITANIUM        0                
POTASSIUM       0              
BORON           65               
SILICON         27               
SODIUM          22             
CALCIUM         3194        
MAGNESIUM       91          
PHOSPHORUS      715            
ZINC            754         
BARIUM          0        
     
SUS VIS 210ºF   58.6       
cSt @ 100ºC     9.82
FLASHPOINT ºF   385
FUEL%           <0.5
ANTIFREEZE%     0.0
WATER%          0.0
INSOLUBLES%     0.3
TBN             Not tested
My previous concerns were insols and it seems the use of Amsoil's EaO filter helped in that area at least. I have an ongoing interest in Si levels, but since I had to remove/reinstall the Oil Pressure Switch twice, each time with fresh Ultra Grey; which has silicone in it's composition, makes that a wash in this sample. So, for now I'm still using a K&N air filter drop-in replacement. The concern for pulling this sample was regarding other issues with this app(not necessarily the engine itself). Those are related but not limited to: the clutch being worn, prematurely fouling of spark plugs(though not inoperable or causing misfire), and an oil pressure light condition(well, sort of, long story). Overall, the driving habbits in this car have had to change because of the clutch issues and also now what appears to be a failing master cylinder at the clutch pedal itself. Fun stuff, for sure. Long story short, I'm needing to find what the hot idle oil pressure is vs cold. I'll need to get a gauge and see how things are reading compared to factory specs. Still running the same fill in this sample until I decide to change it out. Now installed is a PureONE PL14459. There was concern over the EaO starting to load up, it could be all in my mind though, but an oil pressure light condition can scare you out of your wits. I do plan on cutting the filter open. No more Amsoil left over for top-off so I'll need to change it in about another 1,500 miles or so at the current rate of oil consumption/loss.
 
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JAG

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Oil has a lot of life left and it is expensive so I wouldn't dump it because of running out of same oil. I would top it off with some other oil. As an aside, burning oil and that LM additive can increase insolubles.
 
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Soort run Slim, I have a small hunch (as I am sure you do) silicon maybe causing abrasive wear. Darn those K&N filters!! I would take this out at least another 3k considering the top offs you have to do. I would bet you a cheaper oil would get you similar results. It is your money though and I know we always want the best. Have you tried any HM oils with any luck?
 

ltslimjim

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I talked with Alex at B_S today about additives like Lubro Moly's MoS2. This is my first run with it and insols went down, so I'm not buying that it increases insols, at least what is seen or defined as such in these type of UOAs. Very impressed with the Amsoil EaO's ability to provide some help when insols were a concern. My goal is to stay at 0.3 percent or lower it if possible. Based on the initial run with SSO having a TBN of 5.4 after 5,000 I'd imagine this has around that number. That said, I'd think 10,000 is doable regarding TBN retention and overall stability of this fluid, but I just don't see the point in extending out that far just yet SINCE my primary concern is keeping the car operable and getting a clutch kit/Input Shaft Bearing/clutch master cylinder replaced etc. Currently, I'm deciding on a run of PU 5w-30 or M1 AFE 0w-30 for the upcoming winter, which will probably go in by the end of November at the current rate. Top-off oil will be Valvoline conventional that I have on hand.
 
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Wait, so the oil pressure light was coming on while nearing 5,000 miles on the oil filter? Did the problem stop when you switched over to the P1?
 

ltslimjim

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Originally Posted By: chubbs1
Short run Slim, I have a small hunch (as I am sure you do) silicon maybe causing abrasive wear. Darn those K&N filters!! I would take this out at least another 3k considering the top offs you have to do. I would bet you a cheaper oil would get you similar results. It is your money though and I know we always want the best. Have you tried any HM oils with any luck?
It's either the silicon or it's the lower-lug/hunting engine output when the clutch components; namely the friction plate etc, aren't keeping things taut. While I have 'some' reason to suspect the K&N, I'm not going to trash it just yet. Yeah, part of my wants to get 'some' adequate value after paying for it when in hindsight I probably wouldn't have. I did have an oil pressure condition, but I can't be 'certain' that it wasn't a faulty replacement OPS that was flaky(since it turned out to be a used 'returned' item that a consumer got away with). I eventually returned that one myself saying it was defective(hey, it wasn't even the brand I bought so why believe it?)...and I purchased one from the dealership instead. You are probably right regarding this app, though. I'd probably get away with PP 5w-30 and the stash of BD+ filters I have for 'hopefully' 10,000 mile intervals no problem. I don't want to go back to conventional, though, just saying.
 

ltslimjim

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Originally Posted By: Artem
Wait, so the oil pressure light was coming on while nearing 5,000 miles on the oil filter? Did the problem stop when you switched over to the P1?
It 'tried' to come on once during operation. It sort of 'flickered' after a WOT in 1st-2nd-3rd...back to 2nd as a downshift and then approaching a left-hand turn after this heavy load I noticed the light 'flicker' a couple of times, as I came into Neutral to the complete 'stop'. I went ahead and pulled into the parking lot nearby. Checked the oil...it looked okay. Then thoughts of a higher insol count and a more efficient filter crossed my mind. I believe it was chubbs here that recommended me change out the EaO by 5,000 miles ironically. I replaced the OPS(the one for the dummy light, you know not the gauge or an OPSU) a few days prior to this event because the original was leaking. I'm not sure if this was internally or not but for $7.50 I got a replacement Beck/Arnley so I said why not. Well...it appears the one I got from AAP(the "Beck/Arnley") was a 'returned' item from AutoZone(the Duralast PS100). How do I know someone had it start to go out on them/was already used needed replacement and they suckered AAP into returning it once they got their hands on the new B/A inside? Besides, in hindsight I should have avoided the Duralast because it was so different than the original and even the dealer part I finally bought to replace this headache. Since it's easier to access with the filter removed, instead of going over the Amsoil like I did the first time, I just removed the filter and put on a spare P1 PL14459 I had for just this kind of thing. I still need to get an actual oil gauge to get a better idea of the engine's overall health; actual oil pressure readings. I'd REALLY like to see the inside of the EaO, but we'll have to see if the bow saw I used on the WIX still has any teeth left for this beast. grin2 I do believe either at least the previous 'cleanup' run dumped enough gunk out that during the drain most insols were gone OR the Amsoil helped at least lower them. I'm sold on it's efficiency.
 
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I'd have the oil pressure light come on during high G cornering @ high rpm in my 07 civic Si, doesn't mean the Amsoil Oil filters I use are the cause. (Further use of the oil filter after I'm done with it after 5,000 miles shows its still fully capable of doing its job for an additional 7,000 miles + with ease) I say you go back to that same road and redo that "spirited" run and I'm willing to bet that the light will flicker.
 
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Originally Posted By: brandini
Oil pressure light also sounds like you might need a baffled pan...
Exactly my point.
 

ltslimjim

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Originally Posted By: Artem
I'd have the oil pressure light come on during high G cornering @ high rpm in my 07 civic Si, doesn't mean the Amsoil Oil filters I use are the cause. (Further use of the oil filter after I'm done with it after 5,000 miles shows its still fully capable of doing its job for an additional 7,000 miles + with ease) I say you go back to that same road and redo that "spirited" run and I'm willing to bet that the light will flicker.
I did that already after changing the OPS and filter, nothing.... I'll try it again, how's that?
Originally Posted By: Artem
Originally Posted By: brandini
Oil pressure light also sounds like you might need a baffled pan...
Exactly my point.
I don't understand? My oil pan does have some damage to the bottom of it. Not sure if it's by the pickup or not. About a 1-2 inch 'gouge' that slightly raised the pan/dented it upward.
 
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Well you replaced the faulty OPS along with the oil filter so its hard to isolate / pinpoint the cause of the low oil pressure now. Throw on the Amsoil oil filter and try it again. Haha. I'll send you a quart of AZO for top off thumbsup
 

ltslimjim

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Originally Posted By: Artem
Well you replaced the faulty OPS along with the oil filter so its hard to isolate / pinpoint the cause of the low oil pressure now. Throw on the Amsoil oil filter and try it again. Haha. I'll send you a quart of AZO for top off thumbsup
Haha, no thanks. I'd rather get this filter opened and I can get an oil pressure gauge to get actual readings. Why is it not possible that the initial 'replacement' switch was bad?
 
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I just find it hard to believe that the oil filter is clogged and causing problems after only 5,000 miles and having just did a "clean up" OCI.
 

ltslimjim

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Originally Posted By: Artem
I just find it hard to believe that the oil filter is clogged and causing problems after only 5,000 miles and having just did a "clean up" OCI.
I don't think I have a sludge monster by any means, but the low pressure condition, if it was truly present, didn't 'really' increase wear as seen in these UOA. Actual wear? Unknown right now really you know. Okay, 1 or 2 ppm...that's like a piece or two more of dead skin compared to the rest of skin left on your body. It's 'possible' since I only drained the last fill with the .5 insols that there was now more still suspended/in re-animation...as it were...in the engine moving around. Anything from hardened carbon deposits towards the formation of sludge itself; no matter the particle size. So, it is 'possible' this app just saw a condition ripe for increased insols even during this current interval as 'residual' cleaning and the Amsoil EaO helped 'filter out' or at least keep up with any movement of insols throughout the engine as it went by the filter. Do I think it went into full-bypass/maxed filtration? honestly, I don't know, but I don't think it did. Not really. Just an OCD thing more so, but that's just me. I just don't see top-end being an issue at losing 1 quart every 3,000 or so at 255,000 miles. I think this engine could have another 250,000 easy. So, could the pickup have gotten clogged? Could the dent in the pan be an issue? OR Could MoS2 have settled enough to have caused this or even created a scenario where the Amsoil EaO started filtering out some of the additive? OTOH, was this revealing beginnings of a 'spun' bearing; if actual oil pressure has dropped enough to flag or 'begin' to trigger the OPS light coming on? I'm sure most of you guys know what I mean by saying the 'feel' of the car just hasn't seemed right lately. I know it's the clutch. Chatter in 5th gear at lower RPM, and slippage becoming more frequent during high RPM/lower gears. Could a worn friction plate cause the engine to idle improperly when in neutral as well, causing a lug at idle to an extent that after a WOT condition the engine 'seems' to struggle when it's really a clutch inhibiting factor of sorts???
 
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Baffled pan! Mazda had a problem with it on MZR motors and a few companies made bolt-in pan baffles for them to keep the oil from sloshing from one side to the other and starving the pickup. http://www.aj-racing.com/shop/product.php?productid=744&cat=0&page=5 This one is $poon but I bet you can find a cheaper alternative. If you're only getting the light while you're cornering, it's probably this since the engine is mounted traverse so side to side slosh has much more room to build momentum. Otherwise you'd see it flicker when not cornering (but still ragging on it).
 

ltslimjim

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This happened more on an 'upwards' incline after the WOT/heavy load use. I like the idea of getting a new oil pan though. Ironically, I just re-bled my clutch hydraulics and the pedal finally is working right again. I thought the clutch master was going, but it may have been air in the line. Who knows, the system may have not been bled in a LONG time before I originally got to it? It's still acting weird when trying to shift, low power output in taller/higher gears, while the power isn't optimal on WOT in 1st or 2nd, etc. so the feel is definitely disc slip and then catching intermittently.
 
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