Amsoil ATM 10W-30, Amsoil Series 2000 0W-30, or Redline 10W-30 in a Honda S2000
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I have been useing Redline 5W40 for all of winter and I now have over 4000 miles on it. My engine has variable valve lift and variable valve timeing. I have 4 valves per cylinder. I run my car up to 8200RPM on a freq. basis and run it up to 6000 RPM's daily. I have not seen any viscosity issues at all.
THe first 4900 miles on this car was with 10W30 for break in and was done in the summer. My engine revs just as freely with 5W40 in dureing the winter as it did with 10W30 in the summer.
I live in Michigan so the temps vary a lot but it is usualy safe to say that you can count on most mornings being well below 17 degree.
I reliase that your engine is even more rev happy but I can asure you that I just do not see 5W40 being a problem!
Buy an extra quart of Redline because to date most cars use 1/2-1 quart when then first switch to synthetics. This is with a car that normaly does not burn any oil at all. Usualy after the first oil change they do not use any synthetic oil again or consumption is cut in half. Seeing how yours already uses some oil you might keep 2 extra quarts handy the first oil change interval to synthetics.
P.S. The higher you rev the engine the more oil it will consume. This is normal with any application that revs very high.
THe first 4900 miles on this car was with 10W30 for break in and was done in the summer. My engine revs just as freely with 5W40 in dureing the winter as it did with 10W30 in the summer.
I live in Michigan so the temps vary a lot but it is usualy safe to say that you can count on most mornings being well below 17 degree.
I reliase that your engine is even more rev happy but I can asure you that I just do not see 5W40 being a problem!
Buy an extra quart of Redline because to date most cars use 1/2-1 quart when then first switch to synthetics. This is with a car that normaly does not burn any oil at all. Usualy after the first oil change they do not use any synthetic oil again or consumption is cut in half. Seeing how yours already uses some oil you might keep 2 extra quarts handy the first oil change interval to synthetics.
P.S. The higher you rev the engine the more oil it will consume. This is normal with any application that revs very high.
What's it like owning an S2000? I was thinking about buying one used.
It's a wonderful car, especially for the price. The worst part of owning an S2000 is trying to wipe that sh!t-eating grin off your face after taking it on a twisty road.
If you're obsessed with torque, you're not going to like it. But you don't need the torque if you drive at higher RPMs. That's the way the car was designed to be driven. It is easily the best handling car I've ever driven.
Thank you all for giving me input on this decision. I thought about going with the Redline 5W-40 but, after a quick call to Honda, I was discouraged from doing so. Therefore I have decided to give the Redline 10W-30 a shot.
I thought a lot about your post RC211V and based on the driving I do in that car I feel that the Redline will offer the best package for my needs. I don't really need a synthetic that can go 25k miles between changes as much as I need something that can handle repeated bursts up to the 9,000 redline. The car is not my daily driver and it's sole purpose is to provide adrenaline hikes and smiles.
batterycar...to answer your question I would suggest to go take one for a test drive. I have personally never owned or driven a car that handles as razor sharp as the S2000. Aside from the minor lack of low end torque, which really isn't felt due to the low weight of the car, there is nothing on this car that I would change. The tight cockpit of a driver's seat that you literally mold in to when you drive makes you feel Schumacheresque. It's quite a nice ride. For 2004 they bumped up the displacement from the traditional 2.0L motor known as the F20C to a 2.2L motor known as the F22C, hence where I get my screen name from. With the added displacement came more low end torque however the redline was of course sacrificed. Now, the car known most for its 9,000 rpm redline has an 8,200 rpm redline. The really strange thing to most of us on the S2000 forum is why America was the only country to get this engine while Japan and Europe continued to use the traditional 2.0L. Anyhow this is more knowledge about the car then you probably were looking for. All in all it is a fantastically built car with driving being it's sole purpose. If you love to drive simply for the joy of it then you will love this car. Go take one for a spin and let us know what you thought.
I thought a lot about your post RC211V and based on the driving I do in that car I feel that the Redline will offer the best package for my needs. I don't really need a synthetic that can go 25k miles between changes as much as I need something that can handle repeated bursts up to the 9,000 redline. The car is not my daily driver and it's sole purpose is to provide adrenaline hikes and smiles.
batterycar...to answer your question I would suggest to go take one for a test drive. I have personally never owned or driven a car that handles as razor sharp as the S2000. Aside from the minor lack of low end torque, which really isn't felt due to the low weight of the car, there is nothing on this car that I would change. The tight cockpit of a driver's seat that you literally mold in to when you drive makes you feel Schumacheresque. It's quite a nice ride. For 2004 they bumped up the displacement from the traditional 2.0L motor known as the F20C to a 2.2L motor known as the F22C, hence where I get my screen name from. With the added displacement came more low end torque however the redline was of course sacrificed. Now, the car known most for its 9,000 rpm redline has an 8,200 rpm redline. The really strange thing to most of us on the S2000 forum is why America was the only country to get this engine while Japan and Europe continued to use the traditional 2.0L. Anyhow this is more knowledge about the car then you probably were looking for. All in all it is a fantastically built car with driving being it's sole purpose. If you love to drive simply for the joy of it then you will love this car. Go take one for a spin and let us know what you thought.
Just wait until the Elise arrives next year. I know that it's a little bit more than the S2200, but its handling, acceleration and braking makes the Honda look like a Buick. Sick.
Good call with the 10w-30 RL. You won't have any worries with that oil.
Good call with the 10w-30 RL. You won't have any worries with that oil.
Start with the easiest to obtain oil , then go from there . All the oils you picked are top quality.
AP1_F20C What did Honda say regarding the RL 5W-40? Either way, with any of these oils you should be OK.
If anyone is thinking of one of these cars, drive one. They do take a bit of getting used to and they are not really long distance machines (maybe I'm just getting old), but the handling "feel" is almost unbelieveable. As to how it really handles, I'll tell you after I manage to get mine on a track. I will tell you that after driving the S2k back to back w/ my mildly track prepared E36 BMW, the 323is feels numb.
If anyone is thinking of one of these cars, drive one. They do take a bit of getting used to and they are not really long distance machines (maybe I'm just getting old), but the handling "feel" is almost unbelieveable. As to how it really handles, I'll tell you after I manage to get mine on a track. I will tell you that after driving the S2k back to back w/ my mildly track prepared E36 BMW, the 323is feels numb.
What do you'll think about the idea of mixing grades?
I was considering a mix of say 3 qts. 10W-30 and 2 1/2 qts. of the 5W-40 so I can get the best of both worlds. Would anyone be opposed to this and why?
I've personally never mixed grades before but I have read about people doing it.
I was considering a mix of say 3 qts. 10W-30 and 2 1/2 qts. of the 5W-40 so I can get the best of both worlds. Would anyone be opposed to this and why?
I've personally never mixed grades before but I have read about people doing it.
What I would do is run the RL 10w30, after say, 5K miles, depending on how hard and the conditions of your driving. Then have it analyzed to refute or confirm the shearing that would take place, of which I HIGHLY doubt with RL! If the data proves that shearing occurs, go for the mix.
Great decision on the oil, btw.
Be sure to post your analysis here. I have yet to see an S with RL in it. Maybe I will be the second.
Great decision on the oil, btw.
I would not be mixing oils for this cool Honda engine .
If your going to use Redline , use the 5/30 while it's young then run thicker oils when it's near wore out .
If your going to trust the PE basestock you need to trust the 5/30 for the variety of reasons associated with formulating an oil of this type
If your going to use Redline , use the 5/30 while it's young then run thicker oils when it's near wore out .
If your going to trust the PE basestock you need to trust the 5/30 for the variety of reasons associated with formulating an oil of this type
I like the Redline formula as they pay the most attention to reducing foaming , lots of anti-foaming additives used in their oil which makes a lot of sense in high revving small sump engines.
One comment that was made about Redline and Honda bearings deserves some attention though. Many Hondas exhibit higher lead readings in UOA with Redline, my Honda Civic did as have many ITR's that I have seen. After all the talk on Redline we still do not have a definitive answer as to why Redline causes higher lead and sometimes copper readings in UOA's and it seems to be worse in Hondas. I dont buy the argument that its the powerful cleaning attributes of the group V oil base . I know Redline doesnt believe in the UOA process as a definitive estimator of wear, so who knows what the answer is to this question.
Joey
One comment that was made about Redline and Honda bearings deserves some attention though. Many Hondas exhibit higher lead readings in UOA with Redline, my Honda Civic did as have many ITR's that I have seen. After all the talk on Redline we still do not have a definitive answer as to why Redline causes higher lead and sometimes copper readings in UOA's and it seems to be worse in Hondas. I dont buy the argument that its the powerful cleaning attributes of the group V oil base . I know Redline doesnt believe in the UOA process as a definitive estimator of wear, so who knows what the answer is to this question.
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