Amsoil ASM 0w20/7,503 miles/04 Sunfire

[The Critic]

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Full retail is $7.50, but since you are a PC it will only cost you $5.90. Why is it better? Because it simply holds up better. As for the why I think the Amsoil 0W-20 (product code ASM) is better, here goes.

1) ASM is more stable, it has less tendency to shear and is less volatile.
2) It's a better built, better designed oil. Most mass marketed oil, corners are cut on the base oil (less esters, less PAO's, more group II) and the additive package to save dollars. This doesn't make other oils bad, they are just not top tier. Amsoil does not compromise on the composition. The oil is made for extended drains, even if you don't do long OCI's, this better for all conditions - even storage.
3) Amsoil ASM has a better detergent package.
4) ASM has a stronger ability to neutralize acids.
5) ASM has a higher 100°C viscosity.
6) ASM has a higher HTHS value (2.8 vs. 2.6 and lower on some XW-20's)

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While the oil may be better "on paper," I'm still not convinced that there will be a realized benefit from using Amsoil vs my over-the-counter conventional oil at the OEM scheduled intervals. By a realized benefit, I am referring to substantially improved engine life.

 

[buster]

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Ouch, and I thought that $0.89/qt for Quaker State 5W30 this morning was expensive; I was used to paying $0.59/qt

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10,000 miles on dino in a Honda is pushing it. Especially when you factor in fuel dilution. I also don't plan on using AutoRx later in the engines life.

So you would drop $50,000 on a Lexus, but use .59 oil. Why not just buy a Yaris? That will get you from point A to B just as well as the Lexus.

Critic, you said "OEM" intervals. That is where I'm breaking the rule. Otherwise I agree.

 

[HondaMan]

Mike,

I do bet if you buy that Lexus you are not going to want to use it as a 'pig' as you once suggested and pour in Super Tech.
You'll do exactly the opposite, you'll go for the best you can afford for the vehicle.
The same will go very tires, wax and detail spray even ....

Ask anyone who loves their car .... especially someone who loves their car and has to work hard to make the payments.

 

[OriginHacker21]

Interesting argument here. Whether or not conventional oil will do better at regular service intervals vs synthetic at longer. I honestly don't know but... (See below)

The reason why I went with Synthetic in my $9k 04 Sunfire: I worked at Wal-Mart for awhile in the TLE department. I saw countless people who came in every 3,000 miles who dumped in conventional oil. Their oil caps were white with foam and the insides of their engines looked like a black grease pans. Their records showed oil changes every 3,000 miles. To be honest, I didn't see very many CLEAN engines - even the synthetic ones... but I decided that I'd try to keep my engine from getting that way. So I became a short OCI'er and spend hours online (how I found BITOG) researching the subject.

Yes - buster has a good point. If I buy a BMW M3 (my dream car) - I'm going to put in the best oil, the best service/care possible. Heck, my 2004 Sunfire receives some of the best care I've seen: 30,000 oci transmission fluid - Royal Purple. 3-5k Amsoil OCIs and car washes every week (inside/out). My future BMW will receive better care

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The only way I'd use a .59cent oil is in a trashed compact company car that I'm forced to drive - even then I'd demand 3k ocis at longest with used oil analysis.

My OCI regimen may be extreme but my used oil analysis show that even at 100,000 miles my engine is still in its prime thanks to synthetics (Amsoil). I will be using Amsoil in all my current/future cars.

 

[OriginHacker21]

It would be AWESOME to create a clone and have him drive an 04 sunfire the same way I do with the same OCI with conventional oil for 100,000 miles.

We can only speculate at the results...

However, I have to speculate that Synthetic would rule. It wouldn't have baked as badly when I got stuck in traffic for 3-4 hours and the engine temp went way up. It wouldn't have broken down as soon resulting in engine deposits (specially when I did the 2 7000+ OCIs). What else?

 

[ConfederateTyrant]

OriginHacker21,
I understand it being hard to break away from the short OCI mindframe, but it's clear that you can easily get 12,000 miles out of this oil, maybe even 15,000 miles. I say go for it, and don't look back, but continue to supply used oil analysis for our entertainment.

To add, I did not purchase my car, it was a gift from my grandparents (they gave my brother their Caprice Classic), but I care for that car as if I bought it, for a few reasons:

1. I do not have the money to afford another car.
2. It had low miles when I got it in 2000 (~70,000 miles, now has +110,000 miles).
3. It's Ford's best vehicle (my opinion only though).
4. I never intend to get rid of it, voluntarily.

So based on that, I have no problems using Amsoil, especially with 1-2 year long OCIs.

 

[buster]

This oil must be using some type of ester for anti-wear. No boron/moly.

 

[dcoyne78]

I think the more expensive oil is worth it if you can extend your OCI, even for people who like cheap oil like Bill in Utah, if you can extend from a 5k to a 15k interval by using a quality synthetic and you consider changing oil a chore rather than cheap entertainment, then if you value your free time at more than $14/ hour you might save money with the more expensive oil. If we assume 1/2 hour per change and 3 changes at 5k for $36 total vs 15k at $24 for oil 5 for filter and 7 for labor you get the same $36. As long as you think your free time is worth more than $14/hour you save money (this assumes a 4 quart oil change and a medium price filter). For the original poster, he could probably go 20k with an EaO filter and the ASM oil because of the way he racks up the miles.

 

[Steve S]

people buy 60 to 100,000 dollar semi trucks and run Delo 400 or Rotella T and get 100,000 miles in over the road use . Off topic but it proves a point .

 

[JohnBrowning]

How about ou run Mobil 1 0W20 in it so we can compare the results to Amsoil 0W20 and 5W20. It would be very interesting indeed. I am guessing that Mobil 1 0W20 will do just as well as the Amsoil 0W20 did.

 

[Rat407]

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people buy 60 to 100,000 dollar semi trucks and run Delo 400 or Rotella T and get 100,000 miles in over the road use . Off topic but it proves a point .

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These vehicles also have a 5 gallon sump, not a 3.5qt to 5qt sump. Their main operation isn't the same as the average family they are commercial vehicles. Apples to oranges.

 

[Steve S]

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people buy 60 to 100,000 dollar semi trucks and run Delo 400 or Rotella T and get 100,000 miles in over the road use . Off topic but it proves a point .

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These vehicles also have a 5 gallon sump, not a 3.5qt to 5qt sump. Their main operation isn't the same as the average family they are commercial vehicles. Apples to oranges.

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More like 10 + gallons of oil on the trucks that I have changed the oil on, but what does the sump capacity have to do with the price of oil and the job it does?

 

[98LSC32V]

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This oil must be using some type of ester for anti-wear. No boron/moly.

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Probably the same or close to the TSO esters.

 

[buster]

11,000 on the oil now. My driving should really test this oil's ability.

 

[OriginHacker21]

Sounds like a good idea. When I get my next paycheck - Mobil 1 0w20 should make for an interesting UOA. Now, should I even bother asking if Mobil 0w20 is group IV or III?

 

[buster]

OH, give it a shot. I have a feeling the engine you have, much like mine, looks good with any oil.