Amsoil 10w-40

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My next oil and probably the one I will stick with until my car dies is going to be Amsoil's 10w-40. I'm thinking of going with the blend but wanted to know if it has a decent additive package that will keep the engine clean? If not, the fully synthetic looks very good. Thanks
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Be the guinea pig, try the blend!
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Seriously, it's cheaper, probably does very well, and with your engine burning a bit of oil you'd probably don't want to see the more expensive stuff go out the tailpipe like that.

Plus I believe the blend is a slightly thinner 40wt oil than their full synthetic, so it would probably be better suited to your engine (which really doesn't need a thicker 40wt, the thinner 40wt would be best)
 
Sounds good. I'm going with the blend. Should be a good match for my engine.
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Buster, by going with the blend, you save about what? $1.70 per quart--times 4 or 5. You get less protection and a reduced drain interval.

I don't even stock the semi-synthetics, and won't!
 
quote:

Originally posted by **** in Falls Church:
Buster, by going with the blend, you save about what? $1.70 per quart--times 4 or 5. You get less protection and a reduced drain interval.

I don't even stock the semi-synthetics, and won't!


With all due respect ****, as I know you have been involved with oils a lot longer than me, I don't think you're giving the semi synthetics a fair shake. You have seen how well Schaeffer's blends perform, so why do you doubt that Amsoil's blend would too? It might just be a great 10,000 mile oil, and that savings per quart is pretty substantial if you ask me. Especially for Buster whose engine uses a bit of oil.

Have you seen oil analysis results on this blend?
 
Buster is driving 1k per week right now on a little over 100k motor and using 1 quart per 2k miles. I beleive this 10/40 blend really might be the oil for him given he wants to change the oil at 8k if memory serves me correct.

The vi at 40C and 100C is too close to call for the blend and the full syn 10/40 but if he gets the 0/30 out of there and makes a couple of runs to see where he is at as far as consumption is concerned with the change intervals Buster wants I like the choice of the blend imo but resuming 10-12k intervals and 10/40 full syn may not be out of the question here. If it stops burning oil money is saved with the blend,if it continues money is still saved,,I am of the thinking it will stop using as much oil if he gets the 0/30 out of there.If it continues to burn at a high rate something is wrong " which I doubt in knowing it's history" it might be time to run say for example Castrol HM OTC oil in the appropriate grade for the season for the rest of the duration of the motors life. many choices here but my opinion is to remove the 0/30 and get a higher vi oil in it because at those miles per week,I doubt the motor gets to cool down for long?
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Thanks for the input guys. I think I'll try the blend at first and see how it works. If the oil consumption goes down, thats what I will stick with. I might just opt for the fully sythetic. I am going to run autorx first and then switch over to one of them. The blend looks decent and so does the fully sythetic. If I decide to extend drains to 10K + miles, I'll go fully synth.
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Can anyone make a case for the M1 0w-40? It doesn't sound like it is what I need.

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Defense wins championships. So far anyway.

[ January 26, 2003, 07:47 PM: Message edited by: buster ]
 
Have you considered using some Schaeffer's 132 Moly E.P. oil treatment in your oil? I think that it is worth a try.
 
quote:

Originally posted by **** in Falls Church:
Buster, by going with the blend, you save about what? $1.70 per quart--times 4 or 5. You get less protection and a reduced drain interval.

I don't even stock the semi-synthetics, and won't!


****, I felt the same way, usually the full syn will be a better choice, but under certain circumstances the blend might prove to be a better choice.

The 10w40 looks pretty good as far as specs. This comes from website on it:

quote:

The extreme heat in an engine can vaporize the light hydrocarbons and reduce the volume by weight of a conventional oil by 25 percent to leave behind a thick, heavy oil. Surpassing the ACEA/CCMC NOACK Volatility Test, AMSOIL Synthetic Blend 10W-40 loses only 9.4 percent of its volume by weight due to vaporization.

 
I appreciate all the advice and think a 40wt. is the way to go. I wanted to know what people generally think of M1 0w-40? It seems to be getting mixed reviews. I was reading some of the analysis and it appears to thin out. This would defeat my purpose of using this particular weight, although I am considering it. I know some don't like it and some do. Being it is a 0w, do you think it would be better for me to stick with Amsoil's 10w-40 synthetic? This would probably hold it's weight better over the long run althoug the M1 is the long drain euro formula which should be able to handle it. I bring this up bc like I said before, I generally don't go over 10K miles before draining the oil so I don't want to be wastefull. Going over 10k doesn't sit well with me.
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[ January 27, 2003, 05:42 PM: Message edited by: buster ]
 
quote:

Originally posted by buster:
I appreciate all the advice and think a 40wt. is the way to go. I wanted to know what people generally think of M1 0w-40? It seems to be getting mixed reviews. I was reading some of the analysis and it appears to thin out. This would defeat my purpose of using this particular weight, although I am considering it. I know some don't like it and some do. Being it is a 0w, do you think it would be better for me to stick with Amsoil's 10w-40 synthetic? This would probably hold it's weight better over the long run althoug the M1 is the long drain euro formula which should be able to handle it. I bring this up bc like I said before, I generally don't go over 10K miles before draining the oil so I don't want to be wastefull. Going over 10k doesn't sit well with me.
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Buster, you picked two interesting oils. Mobil's 0W-40 looks noticeably thicker than their 0W-30 does. It actually looks almost like their 5W-30 and OW-40 are pretty close in terms of cold weather performance, so the 0W designation is kinda misleading. On the Amsoil side, it looks like the 10W-40 flows extremely well when cold. I would bet that it could meet the criteria to be classed as 0W weight oil as well. I think it's also agreed that Amsoil doesn't tend to shear down like Mobil 1 seems to do.

Since you're already a preferred customer, I would lean towards Amsoil. I would also tend to think your consumption issues would be mitigated with the 10W-40 as well.
 
Just put this into my ZX-11 for the 1st time
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@ 18,000 miles...

Result: FANTASTIC smooooth shifting!

Had a valve adjustment and carb sinc, too...

Result: QUIET, smooooth power, even idle!

Made a "true believer" out of me in just one application.
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Buster: Was that ? directed to me? If so, Amsoil 10W-40 was what I am using in my ZX-11. This is the 100% synthetic stuff, has the JASO "MA" designation just like the really spendy 100% synthetic stuff from Castrol R4, Silkolene, BelRay & Maxima. I was assured by the Amsoil people that it is essentially the same formulation as their "old" 10W-40 Motorcycle specific oil as far as wet clutch compatibility is concerned.

I got a case for less than $3.50 a quart so I should be good to go for another 15K miles or so with 5K oil & filter intervals.
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Yeah, thanks Norm. I'm looking into there 10w-40 for the summer.
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