Amsoil 0w30

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I have seen mentioned on here a time or 2 that Amsoil series 2000 0w30 is a good oil for keeping engines clean, course it's synthetic. My problem is when I see 0w30 on the label, my thinking is it's like water!!!
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. In my catalog Amsoil reccommends for all veichles required for 5 and 10w30 motor oils. Is this oil really ok to use yr around, especially summer??????


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AR
 
The short answer is yes The label is just playing tricks with your mind. If you really look at how the oil's are labeled, you will find that most synthetic 5W-30's and some 10W-30's could just be relabeled a 0W-30 without a forumulation change.

If you're really caught up about the label, Amsoil's Series 3000 5W-30 would clean just as well, and is thought by some to be the ulitmate oil in the Amsoil lineup.
 
Ranger,

Amsoil 0W-30 is SAE 30 wt @ 100°C. It is SAE 0W @ -30°C.

Don't worry about it--it'll work fine in any engine calling for any xW-30 oil. (That said, I think that it's good but overpriced.) For less money I'd get Mobil 1 or Schaeffer's.

Ken
 
It will perform like all other 30 weights in hard running.
Just cuz its a 0w in front doesnt make it any thinner when running hard than the other 30 weights (10w-,5w-).

In general a oil with a bit larger vis spread like a 0w-30, needs more VII's and you might see less stabilty, but with the quality of base oils used in this oil it becomes a non issue.

So if your engine specs out at 5w-30, 10w-30, it meets the vis req'ment for the warm running portion and exceeds the cold start req'ment.

Having said all that, here's my soapbox:

Many many oil recommendations nowadays do not increase the recommended viscosity for sumer drving, this is purely a function of CAFE and not due to some magical decraese in bearing clearances during the early to mid 90's when this bad habit took root.

Those of us that drive engines that have been around for a while can simply look up the recommendation for them in the late 80's, which ofetn list a number of temp ranges and recommend oil for them rather than a single (thin) grade all year.

Also some engines will have a thicker recommendation in other countries than here, in USA(!) even if same engines.

For example the BMW straight sixes recommended 10w/15-40 in summer, or 15w/20w-50's in hot summer, conditions in the 80's.
Now very much the same engines, recommend 5w-30 year 'round even in the US summers..
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In summer, I never run less than a 40 weight oil in my Q45 (5w-40), and when in the southwest in summer a 15w/20w-50.
Actually, even in a (milder, kentucky) winter, I will leave in the 5w-40.

Fred...
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[ December 15, 2002, 10:59 PM: Message edited by: palmerwmd ]
 
quote:

Originally posted by palmerwmd:
In general a oil with a bit larger vis spread like a 0w-30, needs more VII's and you might see less stabilty, but with the quality of base oils used in this oil it becomes a non issue.

Yes, it's the base oil blend and the ratio of ester to PAO that makes a 0wXX oil possible. VI improver is still used, but based on the Mobil study in SAE tech paper 981444, it's easy to see that the 0wXX grades use less VI improver than 5w30 and 10w30.

I'd be willing to bet that trying to achieve a 0wXX grade the "traditional" way, that is by just adding enough VI improver to the base oil to get the spread, would result in a very high shear oil.

That being said, I don't believe there are ANY 0wXX oils out there that are based on Group I or Group II base oils. Even Chevron, who produces a very good Group III, makes their 0w30 with PAO. I believe Shell is the only company who makes a 0wXX grade from a Group III, using their XHVI base oil--though it may have some PAO blended in. (Does anyone know if Petro-Canada makes a 0wXX grade from their Group III base oil?)
 
I use the 0W30 Amosoil in one car. Very, very slightly thinner then the 10W I run in the others. On this car I go one year between changes which is about 8000 miles and a filter at 6 months. It gets hot in VA if you are wondering about climate! Here's my opinion on it. I believe people including the Amsoil dealers on this board,will agree that the wear metals on analsyis are about the same as the 5W and 10W formulations and that the diff comes in with the ability to go longer drains. So, if you change your oil at 7500 miles or less don't spend the extra $2/quart for this 0W oil. The 5W or 10w will give you the same results. If you don't like the 0W go to the 5W series 3000 which costs the same as the 0W and has a hefty additive package for longer drains.

If you live in a very cold winter area the 0W is a good option.
 
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