Any advice on DC capable amp clamps out there for around $150.00 for general automotive and around the house. Looked at Craftsman professional, Extech, and of course Fluke. I don't really want to spend the $300 for the fluke, but will if all the others have a bad reputation.
Amp Clamp
- Thread starter JetStar
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Originally Posted By: JetStar
Any advice on DC capable amp clamps out there for around $150.00 for general automotive and around the house. Looked at Craftsman professional, Extech, and of course Fluke. I don't really want to spend the $300 for the fluke, but will if all the others have a bad reputation.
Quite a few are AC only.
Any advice on DC capable amp clamps out there for around $150.00 for general automotive and around the house. Looked at Craftsman professional, Extech, and of course Fluke. I don't really want to spend the $300 for the fluke, but will if all the others have a bad reputation.
Quite a few are AC only.
JHZR2
Staff member
Yeah, DC clamps are $$$.
Unless you are able to make serious/frequent use out of it to make your money's worth (then go with fluke), otherwise, go with whatever's the cheepest (IMHO).
I have all kinds of multimeters and the cheepest analogue meter is the one I used the most (sino-made, a Shamwa 360 clone) is the cheepest of all; keep my fluke and HP/Agilent indoors.
Q.
I have all kinds of multimeters and the cheepest analogue meter is the one I used the most (sino-made, a Shamwa 360 clone) is the cheepest of all; keep my fluke and HP/Agilent indoors.
Q.
JHZR2
Staff member
Originally Posted By: Quest
I have all kinds of multimeters and the cheepest analogue meter is the one I used the most (sino-made, a Shamwa 360 clone) is the cheepest of all; keep my fluke and HP/Agilent indoors.
Q.
any reason why you use an analog? I do the same thing with my outdoor use cen-tech.
I have all kinds of multimeters and the cheepest analogue meter is the one I used the most (sino-made, a Shamwa 360 clone) is the cheepest of all; keep my fluke and HP/Agilent indoors.
Q.
any reason why you use an analog? I do the same thing with my outdoor use cen-tech.
Analogue multimeters are best suited for testing that fluctuates quite a bit, in either DC , AC or current measurements.
My weary eyes are more adopted to reading analogue meter needle deflections than jumpy numerics on DVM.
Q.
My weary eyes are more adopted to reading analogue meter needle deflections than jumpy numerics on DVM.
Q.
I bought an earlier version of this model from ESI:
http://www.esitest.com/687.html
Look on Amazon for a lower price. If you just want the clamp for use with a DMM then they sell that for a little less (ESI 695).
The version I bought allowed external probes and was a DMM as well, but the basic accuracy, though fine, was lower than a Fluke.
Looks like ESI dropped my model.
A negative battery cable fits very well in the jaws. I used mine to diagnose a generator on an old Buick.
http://www.esitest.com/687.html
Look on Amazon for a lower price. If you just want the clamp for use with a DMM then they sell that for a little less (ESI 695).
The version I bought allowed external probes and was a DMM as well, but the basic accuracy, though fine, was lower than a Fluke.
Looks like ESI dropped my model.
A negative battery cable fits very well in the jaws. I used mine to diagnose a generator on an old Buick.
I ended up buying this one at Menards for $89.00, lifetime warranty. I'll give it a try. Used it for a bit yesterday and it worked fine.
http://www.sperryinstruments.com/product/dsa540a
http://www.sperryinstruments.com/product/dsa540a
The Fluke 365 will do up to 200A DC and AC, for around $200.
http://www.amazon.com/Fluke-365-Detachab...fluke+365+meter
http://www.amazon.com/Fluke-365-Detachab...fluke+365+meter
So far, after a little over a year, The Sperry is doing everything I need it to.
Originally Posted By: Vikas
How quick is the reading? Does it have max hold? Did you put it on the negative battery cable and crank the starter?
This is not an easy task to ask a meter to to. Even if it gives a reading, the meter is probably not fast enough to catch the true readings. That is why there are scopes with clamp on probes. The current draw of a starter will fluctuate as the engine is being turned over, especially if there are some bad cylinders with low compression (less current draw).
How quick is the reading? Does it have max hold? Did you put it on the negative battery cable and crank the starter?
This is not an easy task to ask a meter to to. Even if it gives a reading, the meter is probably not fast enough to catch the true readings. That is why there are scopes with clamp on probes. The current draw of a starter will fluctuate as the engine is being turned over, especially if there are some bad cylinders with low compression (less current draw).
I got a Craftsman Model# 82369 a few months ago for under 50$.
AC/DC clamp on ammeter. Now about 54$
Seems pretty accurate according to my shunted meter, just use alkaline batteries in it, not rechargeables.
AC/DC clamp on ammeter. Now about 54$
Seems pretty accurate according to my shunted meter, just use alkaline batteries in it, not rechargeables.
Originally Posted By: Vikas
How quick is the reading? Does it have max hold? Did you put it on the negative battery cable and crank the starter?
I have a similar Sperry model. It has data hold which I find useless. You have to press a button when you want to freeze what is on the screen. It is not a "max" hold.
How quick is the reading? Does it have max hold? Did you put it on the negative battery cable and crank the starter?
I have a similar Sperry model. It has data hold which I find useless. You have to press a button when you want to freeze what is on the screen. It is not a "max" hold.
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