All-In-One (AIO) Polish and Sealant Products

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I like Meg's D151. Good correction and easy to use. Top it with a spray wax or Meg's ultimate and you have a cheap and durable combo. You will be surprised at how much it can correct, depending on paint hardness.

HD Speed is a dynamite product as well. Good correction and a very wet look. Not durable though.

Let's not rehash the NuFinish thing again. The newer formula is no more abrasive than any other cleaner wax out there. It has some good uses and is durable.
 
Originally Posted By: BTLew81
I like Meg's D151. Good correction and easy to use. Top it with a spray wax or Meg's ultimate and you have a cheap and durable combo.


That stuff is a bit aggressive for an AIO. It's above M205 in terms of aggressiveness. It has a lot of fillers too, so it may haze soft paints but hide the haze with the fillers.
 
Originally Posted By: gofast182
Does Menzerna make one? Based on their other polishes I'd expect it to be excellent.

They do -- it is called Power Protect Ultra, but it is not available in the US.
 
If a product is a cleaner and sealant in one (I'm thinking DG 105, for example) what happens to the dirt lifted by the cleaner? Is it sealed into the new coat of protectant you've just laid down? Is it removed/washed between a final layer of wax? Thanks.
 
Originally Posted By: BTLew81
I like Meg's D151. Good correction and easy to use. Top it with a spray wax or Meg's ultimate and you have a cheap and durable combo. You will be surprised at how much it can correct, depending on paint hardness.

HD Speed is a dynamite product as well. Good correction and a very wet look. Not durable though.

Let's not rehash the NuFinish thing again. The newer formula is no more abrasive than any other cleaner wax out there. It has some good uses and is durable.


+1 D151 is a nice AIO. Agressive considering it's price but it is great for dealership prep or fleet work. M205 is a nice polish but would need to be topped as well if you are looking less agressive.
 
I have to agree D151 is an excellent product and primarily designed for speed vs ultimate, 100% perfection results and long lasting durability, but in my experience it won't even haze soft paints unless you were doing something really idiotic like using dirty pads or expecting a concours finish with a single step using wool and a rotary.

But polishing or finishing foam and a DA and it certainly won't haze even soft Honda paint. Wool it'll obviously leave some buffer trails in the wrong hands but that's more an aspect of using wool than the D151 itself.

I'd say overall in terms of cut it's pretty much the equivalent to Scratch-X 2.0 but leaves some protection. So yes it has some cut but it's still plenty safe to use on occasion.
 
Originally Posted By: qwertydude
I have to agree D151 is an excellent product and primarily designed for speed vs ultimate, 100% perfection results and long lasting durability, but in my experience it won't even haze soft paints unless you were doing something really idiotic like using dirty pads or expecting a concours finish with a single step using wool and a rotary.

But polishing or finishing foam and a DA and it certainly won't haze even soft Honda paint. Wool it'll obviously leave some buffer trails in the wrong hands but that's more an aspect of using wool than the D151 itself.

I'd say overall in terms of cut it's pretty much the equivalent to Scratch-X 2.0 but leaves some protection. So yes it has some cut but it's still plenty safe to use on occasion.


The Meg reps have said that D151 is a fairly strong compound/wax type product.

Honda paints can be soft, but they are not that soft. Have you ever worked on a Jet Black Tesla Model S? Or some of the recent Toyota blacks? These paints will leave faint marring if you use anything less than a NEW high $$ MF towel to wipe them.

Like you said, D151 is a product that is designed for production detailing and the average detailer (or customer) using D151 probably won't know what haze or marring is anyway....so it's probably not worth discussing. However, I think it's wrong to say that D151 is capable of a perfect finish (underneath the fillers) on every paint system out there.
 
Update to the original post --

I tried HD speed tonight on a silver Nissan with the infamous scratchshield paint. It cleaned up the haze fairly well and wiped off fairly easily...despite the super sticky paint.

I will post a full review in a separate thread.
 
Update to the original post --

I tried HD speed tonight on a silver Nissan with the infamous scratchshield paint. It cleaned up the haze fairly well and wiped off fairly easily...despite the super sticky paint.

I will post a full review in a separate thread.
 
Originally Posted By: The Critic
Originally Posted By: qwertydude
I have to agree D151 is an excellent product and primarily designed for speed vs ultimate, 100% perfection results and long lasting durability, but in my experience it won't even haze soft paints unless you were doing something really idiotic like using dirty pads or expecting a concours finish with a single step using wool and a rotary.

But polishing or finishing foam and a DA and it certainly won't haze even soft Honda paint. Wool it'll obviously leave some buffer trails in the wrong hands but that's more an aspect of using wool than the D151 itself.

I'd say overall in terms of cut it's pretty much the equivalent to Scratch-X 2.0 but leaves some protection. So yes it has some cut but it's still plenty safe to use on occasion.


The Meg reps have said that D151 is a fairly strong compound/wax type product.

Honda paints can be soft, but they are not that soft. Have you ever worked on a Jet Black Tesla Model S? Or some of the recent Toyota blacks? These paints will leave faint marring if you use anything less than a NEW high $$ MF towel to wipe them.

Like you said, D151 is a product that is designed for production detailing and the average detailer (or customer) using D151 probably won't know what haze or marring is anyway....so it's probably not worth discussing. However, I think it's wrong to say that D151 is capable of a perfect finish (underneath the fillers) on every paint system out there.


The thing is I never said it will leave a perfect finish. But it's pad dependent. And yes I have seen the newer Toyota clears, D151 won't haze them when used with a finishing pad. I did say it won't leave haze, as in compounding haze. And it won't but it will finish just about as finely as M205 if you use a finishing pad. And if more than that level of finish is what you're after obviously you're not gonna reach for D151 in the first place. And you'll probably end up multi-stepping it in which case going with a dedicated finishing polish and separate wax will get better results.

But if you're looking for a one step that can remove as much damage as D151 AND leave a very good finish nearing perfect, there's pretty much no other product I've run across that's better.
 
HD Speed is my preference... by quite a margin. Doesn't cut as well as D151.

D151 dusts quite a bit for me. Have tried it via D/A... you might get one section pass in... maybe. And I have used almost 3/4 of a gallon of it and still can't find the sweet spot.
Cuts like mad though... and really doesn't fill all that much.

Below was done via Rupes 21/ HD Speed/LC Pink 5.5" pad.
It was a medium cloudy day when I finished so right when I had the camera settings 'right'... the sun would appear and disappear.(Finished the wash and decon the evening before) So I couldn't capture a good sun shot... which naturally make the photos overexposed and a bit 'gamey'. However, I was pressed for time as the customer was present.



 
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If it's dusting like mad you need to adjust your technique. You might be using too much, working too big a section, and working it too long. And some light dusting is actually a built in feature. Dusting is the polish's way to let it easily come off the pad. Too oily a polish ends up gumming up your pad which necessitates a pad cleaning which would slow down productivity. Hence why M105 which was originally designed for production purposes also dusts.

So with D151 when you're finished with a section you can blow out, brush, or spur the spent polish of the pad and start a new section right away. Oily polishes for me always end up clogging pads and needing a cleaning between sections or requiring multiple pads and changes. I actually dislike M101 for this reason.

As for getting only one pass, that's sorta the point of SMAT. Do one pass check progress, reapply and do another pass if necessary. Even you'll say it cuts fast and that's the point. SMAT wasn't meant to be worked and worked. Overwork it and yes you will get more dusting and you'll also get an unsatisfactory finish. If you work it til it's way past dusting the spent paint ends up sticking the SMAT abrasives together causing a less than satisfactory result, hazing or marring.

With SMAT abrasives you really have to get out of the mindset that working and working the polish will get you good results, it won't. You get the final finish on the first pass, if defects aren't corrected by then, reload polish and go for another. Maybe after three separate passes and you've still not corrected it, with D151 if 3 passes won't correct it, go with a more aggressive pad or it might be time to bring out the big guns like M105. But in my experience short of paint that's been rubbed with beach sand and gravel, D151 will take care of it.
 
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Originally Posted By: qwertydude
If it's dusting like mad you need to adjust your technique. You might be using too much, working too big a section, and working it too long. And some light dusting is actually a built in feature. Dusting is the polish's way to let it easily come off the pad. Too oily a polish ends up gumming up your pad which necessitates a pad cleaning which would slow down productivity. Hence why M105 which was originally designed for production purposes also dusts.

So with D151 when you're finished with a section you can blow out, brush, or spur the spent polish of the pad and start a new section right away. Oily polishes for me always end up clogging pads and needing a cleaning between sections or requiring multiple pads and changes. I actually dislike M101 for this reason.

As for getting only one pass, that's sorta the point of SMAT. Do one pass check progress, reapply and do another pass if necessary. Even you'll say it cuts fast and that's the point. SMAT wasn't meant to be worked and worked. Overwork it and yes you will get more dusting and you'll also get an unsatisfactory finish. If you work it til it's way past dusting the spent paint ends up sticking the SMAT abrasives together causing a less than satisfactory result, hazing or marring.

With SMAT abrasives you really have to get out of the mindset that working and working the polish will get you good results, it won't. You get the final finish on the first pass, if defects aren't corrected by then, reload polish and go for another. Maybe after three separate passes and you've still not corrected it, with D151 if 3 passes won't correct it, go with a more aggressive pad or it might be time to bring out the big guns like M105. But in my experience short of paint that's been rubbed with beach sand and gravel, D151 will take care of it.


Couple things:

1) Every person has a different arm speed. Slower is better, but it's hard to advise on an ideal arm speed without being there in person to demonstrate. Ultimately, what matters is the amount of time that is spent working the product.

2) Refer to the back label on a bottle of M205. No where does it say (or on any Meguiars SMAT products) to only use 1 pass. FYI, it says 2-3 passes at moderate pressure and 2 additional passes with light pressure.

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/forums/photopost/data/809/M205BackLabel.jpg

3) A longer work time by itself, does not destroy the finish unless you are dry buffing. A more common issue is the paint residue that builds up. In situations where there's a lot of oxidation or embedded contaminants, it may be best to do 1-2 passes and blow out the pad...before continuing.

4) There's nothing wrong with oily products that do not dust. As long as you blow out your pad after each section (or more often), and get a NEW (or freshly washed) pad every other panel or so, you will be fine. It is important to remember that blowing out the pad is NOT sufficient – you can only run them for so long before they need an actual wash.

5) Many SMAT products recommend priming with a detailer spray. I usually just use a damp pad. Failure to follow this instruction when it applies, may sometimes result in a dust storm.
 
The label might say 2-3 passes at moderate pressure and another jeweling pass, but you of all people should know the label isn't always 100% applicable.

You won't improve the finish by going multiple passes. You can prove this to yourself simply by wiping the polish directly in one swipe across paint. M205 won't leave any hazing or particle gouges so single passes will end up with as good a finish as a single swipe test. You can apply it like a final glaze and you'll finish just fine.

My own experience with SMAT abrasives was that you'll get results faster, get easier wipeoff, and minimize paint removal by going with single passes inspecting and reloading a small amount of polish between each pass as necessary. You end up running the same amount of passes anyways but reloading between passes is more to refresh the lubrication and prevent possible dry buffing that can occur around the edges of the pad which dry out faster than the middle which can mar the paint.

I usually don't like priming with detailer spray. With M205 I find especially it changes the properties somewhat and can make wipeoff rather difficult.
 
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I appreciate your comments, qwerty... but my thought process is more in-line with Critic on this one.

I've worked D151 in various ways... lots of product/ little product, fast arm speed/slow arms speed, small sections/large sections... and all of the combinations in between. It didn't matter one bit. It is just not an enjoyable product for me because the dusting pretty much negates the use of an AIO because I'm having to clean every nook and cranny and jamb on the vehicle again, after polishing.


With HD Speed, I don't have to do that because it has never dusted for me...not one bit!

I have given D151 plenty of chances using 3 quarts so far(could be my environment too... low temps with very high humidity for 8 months out of the year does some funky things to detailing products, including coatings!)

I was impressed with the longevity of the protection from D151 (I let is sit on the vehicle until completion before wipe off... I noted 6 weeks on my daily driver when I was testing it out.

HD Speed, for me, is the direct opposite of 151... it has a very long work time, ZERO dust, doesn't cut as much, and doesn't protect as long (I have noted 4 weeks).

However, I have found with either D151 or HD SPeed (or any AIO for that matter) cleaning my pads on the fly isn't quite as effective vs. using a dedicated compound/polish. I guess the sealant/wax aspect of the product is one more component to build up in the pad along with spent clear coat and abrasives.

Usually I can get two panels out of an orange pad and a compound... with an AIO I'm changing out every panel.

Qwerty- can you comment on M66 vs. D151? I almost picked up some M66 before buying HD Speed...
 
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Originally Posted By: qwertydude
The label might say 2-3 passes at moderate pressure and another jeweling pass, but you of all people should know the label isn't always 100% applicable.

You won't improve the finish by going multiple passes. You can prove this to yourself simply by wiping the polish directly in one swipe across paint. M205 won't leave any hazing or particle gouges so single passes will end up with as good a finish as a single swipe test. You can apply it like a final glaze and you'll finish just fine.

My own experience with SMAT abrasives was that you'll get results faster, get easier wipeoff, and minimize paint removal by going with single passes inspecting and reloading a small amount of polish between each pass as necessary. You end up running the same amount of passes anyways but reloading between passes is more to refresh the lubrication and prevent possible dry buffing that can occur around the edges of the pad which dry out faster than the middle which can mar the paint.

I usually don't like priming with detailer spray. With M205 I find especially it changes the properties somewhat and can make wipeoff rather difficult.


I think you're forgetting that a lot of us are not just using M205 to finish – but instead, we are also using it in a “compound-like” application. Obviously when you use it to “cut,” your finish is not going to be the same as if you're using M205 as a finishing polish.

And if you're trying to remove defects with M205, you are going to be doing at least a couple passes.

Lastly, re-loading the polish in the way that you described is going to rapidly load up your pad, which will necessitate a more frequent pad replacement. I've yet to have issues with dry buffing, myself. Also, from my experience – a clean pad with the correct amount of polish (4-5 pea sized drops for me) will give a lot more cut and better finish than one that is loaded up.
 
Reloading polish between passes won't load up your pad, at least not any more than a single larger initial load, 4-5 drops for 2-3 passes is actually more than what I use for for my 2-3 passes. So there's no more chance of overloading or clogging the pad.

And I can do the entire car with a single pad, I use a cotton bath towel to clear out an overloaded pad. It works better than washing as it doesn't leave any water behind and you don't need to reprime the pad with polish unlike with washing out or replacing the pad. This is why I say using the method I describe you will use less polish even though you're reloading the pad more often, but using less each individual time.

Water and quick detailer in the pad tends to increase the aggressiveness of the polish, might be good for cutting but for finishing it can reduce the final finishing quality. And water tends to make the polish difficult to remove as it will really stick to the paint.
 
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I'll throw in another vote for Duragloss 501. Because it is a sealant it will outlast the AIO waxes mentioned in this thread. I use it both on my Lexus, which has softer paint, and my Caravan, which has harder paint, and the results are great on both.
 
Nah. I've been trying extra hard to keep up the paint on my car since new two years ago. I clay once a year, but honestly, it seems almost pro forma on a new car. I haven't noticed any marring, but then, I don't have a discerning eye.

Probably, the very very light abrasives would be an improvement as a once-in-awhile thing, but I'm disinclined to buy Duragloss two part AIO (which is probably what I would go for) if I still have a huge tub of Collinite paste wax. The Collinite I put on 5 months ago is still going strong, and replacing it more than three times per year is OCD in my opinion. Duragloss reputedly has similar or even better durability. So once in awhile use of AIO would really be every year and a half for someone like me. Just not worth it.
 
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